CV Joint Advice Needed
#1
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CV Joint Advice Needed
I have a salvaged 88 NA, as well as my running 86 951.
Now, i fear that one (or two) CV joints on the turbo need replacing. Also, i was a dumbass NOT to mark the CV inner and outer races when i cleaned them out.
My question is, i KNOW the 87+ CV joints have a 951 part number. But, is it possible to swap the CV joint(s) from my 88 NA (with a 951 part number) with my 86 951 (944 part number).
The axles wouldn't work, it is a 88 NA auto. But i couldn't find any physical difference between the 87+ and the 86 CV joints.
Could it work? anyone swapped these out?
Now, i fear that one (or two) CV joints on the turbo need replacing. Also, i was a dumbass NOT to mark the CV inner and outer races when i cleaned them out.
My question is, i KNOW the 87+ CV joints have a 951 part number. But, is it possible to swap the CV joint(s) from my 88 NA (with a 951 part number) with my 86 951 (944 part number).
The axles wouldn't work, it is a 88 NA auto. But i couldn't find any physical difference between the 87+ and the 86 CV joints.
Could it work? anyone swapped these out?
#3
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xsboost: Yes i know the axles are different between turbo, NA and automatic transmission models.
That 88 NA is automatic transmission, but i am not interested in the axles, just one (or more) CV joints.
Now, i would also like to know why does one mark the inner and outer races on the CV? and what could happen if they were dis-assembled and re-assembled without being marked?
That 88 NA is automatic transmission, but i am not interested in the axles, just one (or more) CV joints.
Now, i would also like to know why does one mark the inner and outer races on the CV? and what could happen if they were dis-assembled and re-assembled without being marked?
#4
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if the bearings dont go back into the same spot, they could potentially wear out faster since they have wear patterns particular to just that spot/bearing/race. The cv's themselves should work on your axels, but i would check like paragon-products or somewhere to see if they sell separate cv kits for different models, though im not sure if you can buy cv's like on the 911's or not.
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xsboost: Unfortunately, i wasn't able to remove the axles from the old car. The bolt heads are rusted (still greased CV's though) and i snapped a few heads. Guess i am stuck with the ones on the 951, but the issue of properly aligning the CV's inner and outer race is my biggest concern.
Both boots on the driver's side axles are torn, new boost kits are supposed to arrive on Sunday, which allows me time to remove the the axles, CVs and clean them out, then i could repack them with grease and install the new boots.
Both boots on the driver's side axles are torn, new boost kits are supposed to arrive on Sunday, which allows me time to remove the the axles, CVs and clean them out, then i could repack them with grease and install the new boots.
#6
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Hey, I just went through this myself with not marking the races. Silly me. If you put them back together wrong, the CV joint turns into a lock joint! But it's not hard to figure out how to put them back together right.
Observe the inner race carefully. Lay it flat on your workbench. Notice how it's not symmetrical between the grooves for the *****? It alternates between wide and narrow sections because of the angle of the grooves. Do the same with the outer race. It has the same features. The cage is totally symmetrical so that doesn't matter. The trick when putting them back together is to align a wide section of the outer race with a narrow section of the inner race. It's a bit of a Rubik's cube, but it will go together fine.
Does that make sense?
____________________________________
1986 944 NA - Guards Red - 82k miles
1984 911 Carrera Coupe - Guards Red (gone, but not forgotten)
"If you're not living on the edge, you're not living"
Observe the inner race carefully. Lay it flat on your workbench. Notice how it's not symmetrical between the grooves for the *****? It alternates between wide and narrow sections because of the angle of the grooves. Do the same with the outer race. It has the same features. The cage is totally symmetrical so that doesn't matter. The trick when putting them back together is to align a wide section of the outer race with a narrow section of the inner race. It's a bit of a Rubik's cube, but it will go together fine.
Does that make sense?
____________________________________
1986 944 NA - Guards Red - 82k miles
1984 911 Carrera Coupe - Guards Red (gone, but not forgotten)
"If you're not living on the edge, you're not living"
#7
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LOL, I can do them all day long, just can't explain it tho. The inner and outers you would think go wide to wide as far as the grooves, they don't, it's wide to narrow, narrow being the inner to the wider outer. Hope that helps some. And regrease them after, just a little film of grease when you put them together, it helps them to move, but too much and it's a mess. Good luck.
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#8
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I am a little confused, but again, we would have to said till the parts come in after a couple of days. That way, i can lay everything down and closely inspect the innter race's sections..........
#10
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Kevin: It is the alignment of the inner and outer race's that is screwed up, i need to adress that. I wanted to swap the CV's with the other car just incase i find any problems with the CV's on the 86 951..
#11
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So the problem is that you have the sets of inner and outer races correctly identified, that is, have the correct inner race for each outer race?
As far as aligning them goes, there are only a couple things to consider. The outer race can go on one way, or flipped over (exactly opposite) from that way. It's tough to explain, but from the outside looking in on the joint, you will have the wide section between the grooves on the outer race lined up with the narrow section between the grooves on the inner race. From there, it's just a matter of rotating it until the wear patterns match best. Really, they should wear virtually identically between the bearing grooves, so likely you will find an orientation that will work very quickly. I just juggle the ball bearings and inner/outer races around until it moves best. Then grease it, and put it back on the shaft.
As far as aligning them goes, there are only a couple things to consider. The outer race can go on one way, or flipped over (exactly opposite) from that way. It's tough to explain, but from the outside looking in on the joint, you will have the wide section between the grooves on the outer race lined up with the narrow section between the grooves on the inner race. From there, it's just a matter of rotating it until the wear patterns match best. Really, they should wear virtually identically between the bearing grooves, so likely you will find an orientation that will work very quickly. I just juggle the ball bearings and inner/outer races around until it moves best. Then grease it, and put it back on the shaft.
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Let me just say that i was able to remove the whole axle off the 'spare' car, and indeed when i removed the CV's and looked closely, there is a narrow and wide section where the wide (outer race) is lined up with the narrow (inner race).
I removed both CV's from the axle, cleaned them out and re-geased them. To my suprise, my parts arrived today from Lindsey Racing (awsome job as usual). Now i have the new boot kits (includes new boots, boot clamps, snap rings and concave washers).
Now i know what to do, i have mis-aligned ONE CV on the 951, and that is going to be replaced with one from th e88 car.
Thanks guys!
I removed both CV's from the axle, cleaned them out and re-geased them. To my suprise, my parts arrived today from Lindsey Racing (awsome job as usual). Now i have the new boot kits (includes new boots, boot clamps, snap rings and concave washers).
Now i know what to do, i have mis-aligned ONE CV on the 951, and that is going to be replaced with one from th e88 car.
Thanks guys!