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clutch pressure problem

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Old 08-03-2005 | 01:03 AM
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Default clutch pressure problem

I replaced the hose from the brake resevoir and bled the system.

This solves the problem but then in 2 days the clutch has fallen to the floor again and their is no pressure in the system.

There are some things I can think of:

1) The seal (gromet/washer) where the hose goes into the master cylinder looked pretty old. This is on top near the fuse box (about 7 or 8pm to the fuse box.)

2) The master cylinder nut where you bleed it underneath is stripped and not sealing.

Anyone have a way to fix this? I havn't driven my car in a long time and its just sitting under the cover in the corner of my driveway.
Old 08-03-2005 | 01:43 AM
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How much is it to just get that gromet that I listed in #1?

How much and how difficult is it to replace the master cylinder?
Old 08-03-2005 | 05:00 AM
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??
Old 08-03-2005 | 06:56 AM
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You may have already stated this in the other thread, so if so I apologize in advance...............but........did you replace the clutch slave/master cylinders already? If not, that is your issue here more than likely. Paragon has both parts new in stock.
Old 08-03-2005 | 02:12 PM
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Do you have any idea how much they cost?
Old 08-03-2005 | 02:22 PM
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$76.81 for the master:

http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...77.721.171.htm

$60.73 for the slave:

http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...116.237.00.htm

You've already got the hose and reservoir so you don't need those.

Old 08-03-2005 | 02:27 PM
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How do I ensure that its not just that little rubber gromet/seal at the top of the slave/master? (where the hold L tube sticks into?)

How do I test it to find the real problem before I spend 1/3 of what I paid for my whole car
Old 08-03-2005 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 944J
How do I ensure that its not just that little rubber gromet/seal at the top of the slave/master? (where the hold L tube sticks into?)

How do I test it to find the real problem before I spend 1/3 of what I paid for my whole car
That seal has nothing to do with keeping pressure/fluid in the system. You mean the one that goes on the end against the firewall?

If the slave or master is leaking, they are shot, regardless. Even it is just one that is leaking, they operate in a pair and thus share the same number of fatigue cycles. That means they should both be replaced.
Old 08-03-2005 | 04:03 PM
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That seal has nothing to do with keeping pressure/fluid in the system. You mean the one that goes on the end against the firewall?

If the slave or master is leaking, they are shot, regardless. Even it is just one that is leaking, they operate in a pair and thus share the same number of fatigue cycles. That means they should both be replaced.
The rubber seal/washer next to the firewall looks very bad. If this is where the leak is and it costs $2 to replace and fixes the problem then why not do it?

The original problem was a hole in the hose from the reservoir to the cylinder. The rubber seal/washer Im talking about was surely damaged by pulling out the plastic L pipe from it.

I'm looking for a way to test the master/slave cylinders to verify they are bad before I replace them.
Old 08-03-2005 | 06:00 PM
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If the seal you're talking about is bad, air may leak into the system and cause your symptoms. I agree, If you can buy the seal separately, why not to try first?
Old 08-03-2005 | 06:33 PM
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anyone know the name of it or where to get it (the seal/gromet by the firewall)
Old 08-04-2005 | 06:32 AM
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The one by the firewall is only there to keep noise and water out of the interior, it has nothing to do with sealing the system. Unless I am just totally misunderstanding what you are saying.

Paragon has the rebuild kits to completely rebuild the cylinders if you want to purchase that from them. Good luck.
Old 08-04-2005 | 06:40 AM
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Yeah your not understanding:

1) there is a hose that goes from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch system
2) it has a hard plastic L pipe at the end farthest away from the resevoir
3) this plastic pipe connects the tube to the clutch system by insertion into a rubber seal by downward force (not against the firewall, its DOWN next to the firewall but the L pipe goes down.)
4) no liquid leaks in the clutch system, the air leak can be anywhere from the reservior to the slave to the master clutch cylinder, it doesnt have to be in any one part of the system and it could be in all parts or any combination of parts of the system
5) their is a slow pressure loss over 1 or 2 days in the clutch after it is bled using a hand pump bleeding system
6) I think that the leak my might be at the junction where the L pipe at the end of the hose from the reservior is pushed into the seal since the seal is craked and warped
7) I don't know the name of this seal in order to get a new one
8) I don't know the procedure to install it if I had a new one

I hope that helps someone help me
Old 08-04-2005 | 06:54 AM
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Call Paragon and tell them what you need.

You probably have to buy the whole kit, but it is cheap compared to a new cylinder.
Old 08-04-2005 | 03:20 PM
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Hey 944J,

I believe what you broke is the little elbow at the master cyc. that connects the reservoir hose to master cyc. These are available for $4.00 where I work at Paragon Products. They are meant for the 968 but should work for the 944.

Good Luck,

Chuck
Paragon Products
800-200-9366


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