Brake bleeder
#2
Nordschleife Master
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I hear the Motive Power Bleeder is the best available. I have never used one, but plan to buy it in a few weeks when i get around to changing the brake fluid.
http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...er_bleeder.htm
Alternativley, you can build one yourself for less than $25. I thought about doing this, but frankly i was to lazy to track down all the different parts needed for it.
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...er_bleeder.htm
Alternativley, you can build one yourself for less than $25. I thought about doing this, but frankly i was to lazy to track down all the different parts needed for it.
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
#4
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2nd the motion for the Motive. I've used it for 4+ years, at home, at the track... heck, my son was bleeding the brakes and clutch on my car with the Motive when he was 10 years old.
Keep the turkey baster for pulling extra fluid out of the reservoir.
Keep the turkey baster for pulling extra fluid out of the reservoir.
#5
Jane Bond 007
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Mine's a Mitivac Hydraulic Injection System. I got it from JCWhitney for $67. It's the same thing as the Motive, I believe. Bled my clutch by myself in about 5 min flat. I love it.
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The mityvac system has a trigger release which I assume allows you to control the pressure to the mc. Does the motive have a shutoff so you can disconnect without releasing all the pressure of the tank?
#11
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Have both the Motive and the Mityvac. The Motive wins hands down.
I still use the Mityvac for testing vacuum connections, etc. but haven't used it for brake bleeding since I started with the Motive (about a year).
gb
I still use the Mityvac for testing vacuum connections, etc. but haven't used it for brake bleeding since I started with the Motive (about a year).
gb
#15
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If you find that fluid indeed will not come out of a bleeder valve the first time you get at it, don't panic. I had this happen with the clutch slave on the 968. At that point, you need the old-fashioned "pedal down, while opening bleeder, and hold" method to push any sediment or junk that may be in there. Brake fluid is so seldomed changed in most cars, it's not unusual to get dirty stuff out in the fluid the first couple of times you flush it.
Follow the instructions and you wil get the hang of it fast. Not TOO much pressure either. I use about 12 psi and practice a bit of patience on the fluid flow.
Also, if your bleed screws are rounded out, just replace them. Cheap and Paragon carries them. I believe the NA brakes are 7mm rear and clutch, 8mm front. If you are missing the little rubber covers for the bleed screws, get those puppies too. They really DO help keep the bleeder clean of grit and such.
Follow the instructions and you wil get the hang of it fast. Not TOO much pressure either. I use about 12 psi and practice a bit of patience on the fluid flow.
Also, if your bleed screws are rounded out, just replace them. Cheap and Paragon carries them. I believe the NA brakes are 7mm rear and clutch, 8mm front. If you are missing the little rubber covers for the bleed screws, get those puppies too. They really DO help keep the bleeder clean of grit and such.