apierce918

well, i started dissasembly today getting ready for paint, and i ran into a couple of issues.

1. how do you remove the exterior metal trim that runs along the a-pillar and above the door all the way to the hatch?

2. trying to remove tail-lights and there is a rubber non hardening sealent that seems very stuck.. i started pressing on one of the studs but it broke free and would be loose in the tail light assembly. do i just keep pushing? i dont want to buy anything that i dont already have to. (already broke all bumper pad studs )

ill probably be back with more questions. im a little scared of my mirrors since the driver side one has already seen some issues, and i have read just to cut the wires and re-splice them when you put them back together.

thanks

blindeye

It will show you how to take it apart - for the most part especially mirrors, front spoiler, bumper etc.

Granite 944

1: Friction clips hold it. Carefully pry using a flat trim tool, or heavy gage scraper type tool.
2: Thats 1/4" ribbon seal. Same as whats used on sealing windsheilds, and underneath the blower fan motor shroud. Very sticky, hard to seperate when cold. Use a heat gun (carefully....don't overdo it!) or a hairdryer to warm it up, and slowly/carefully push it out.

HAVE FUN.......GO SLOW.......YOU'LL GET IT.

AznDrgn

Trim just slides on there, just pull it and it should come off but be careful it's very soft material. The tailights you just unscrew all the nuts on the backside, ~10 per side and then push the light out.

apierce918

haynes manuals suck, i'de rather get my advice from a rennlister than be sent to a dealer for anything that involves a lil elbow grease, im just trying to prevent any breakage.

i have the bumper, front valance, nose panel, headlight covers, and all side markers off so far

i know you can crank the mirror forward and there is an allen screw in there, but my driver side is very, very stuck, my passenger side turns like normal.

apierce918

trim just slides on? the trim im talking about is an arch

ok, i thought it had to be pushed, but after i was giving it a bit of force, i was getting worried. that sealant around the assembly is there from the factory isnt it? or did a PO add that later...?

apierce918

ok, thanks ken (was writing other replies before i saw your responses, watching tv and sat at the reply window for awhile)

500

Hey Andrew,

I went through all this in the past few weeks as I'm prepping for paint too!

AznDrgn is right, the metal inserts in the trim are tricky. As Ken said, you can pry off (gently) the U-shaped piece next to the mirror first. The long pieces essentially pull out. There is a little tab at the B-pillar end of the top and bottom long piece that fits in a small slot in the B-pillar. Go very slow and use a plastic scraper or something similar to help. It is VERY easy to bend these pieces. I will have to replace at least one...

The tailights are OK, they just need a little time. What I did was push a plastic scraper in between the vertical edge of the lens (the end that wraps around to the side of the body) and then used a broad flat-tip screwdriver (BETWEEN the lens body and the scraper, NOT on the body) and gently pried to get it started. Then just wiggled it loose and off, no problem. (EDIT: I just realized I mis-read your question: you were asking about the rain gutter trim, I was talking about the metal inserts in the exterior window seals. Sorry.)

The main mounting bolt for the mirrors are TIGHT. Spray a good penetrant the day before tackling them again.

You'll just LOVE the sanding... The engine compartment took me eight hours!



I think it's really cool that all these people are trying the painting. If my car can turn out anywhere close to as good as those done by others on this forum (XSBoost90, Perry951. HPfarm, MacFreak007 etc.) I'll be happy. I look forward to following your progress Andrew. If you want to ask more Q's (since we are essentially doing this at the same time) feel free to email me at abecker@aluma.com )

testarossa_td

Got any "in the process" pictures?

500

If all goes well, I'll be ready to start shooting primer this weekend. I'll try and take some good pics and post 'em.

Andrew, if you haven't snipped the mirror wires yet, maybe hold off a day. This afternoon I'm picking up this terminal tool . I'll let you know if it works or not. The mirrors are the last part (along with the washer jets) that have not been removed from my car. I was hoping to do it the "officially sanctioned" way...

Thanks!

Macfreak007

Allan, I tried the officially sanctioned way too, then just decided it was much easier to cut the wires. THose little clips only have a certian life span, but i can splice the wires as many times as I want. what are you using to shoot the primer? what kind did you get?

Chris_924s

Allan- you have ZERO hp in there.. !!

I applaud you guys. one day I'll be doing the same thing.
I need a garage to STORE my car in first..

500

Hey Carl,

What you say is true. I may end up snipping and splicing too...

I going to use Glasurit 283-160 chromated etch primer (1 coat) followed up by two coats of the Glasurit 285-60 primer surfacer. If that works out OK, I'll block it with 600 grit and then top coat it with a sealer (Glasurit 285-60, but mixed with different reducers etc.) and the base (-55 line) and the clear (923-455). I figure about three actual painting days, spead over a week and a half will see me through, if I don't encounter any hitches (I'm not doing the front spoiler or the urethane bumper side caps yet, I'll tackle those another time). How many painting days did you need? Did you use DuPont Chromabase? I know that is what Dan (XSBoost90) likes... Actually, that is what I was going to use. I changed to Glasurit after I found the paint jobber close to me (who has been excellent BTW) did not carry DuPont. But I guess as long as you select a good name brand system, it's all good.

For guns, I'm going to use a Sharpe Finex HVLP (various tips) for the primers, a Sharpe MGF detail gun for the jambs and tight areas in the engine room and then for the top coats I'll be using a DeVilbiss GFG-670 Plus compliant gun. So I guess I'll have no excuses! I'd be interested to know what you used and how you liked it (obviously, whatever you chose worked well).

Chris,

I think you've figured it out for me!! It seemed like she just no longer had the same pep... I assume to fix this I would have to install a motor?

apierce918

gettin ready to tackle some more. thanks for the advice allan, if i have some more questions i'll email you. i havent taken off my washer jets yet either, i was thinking about snipping them because the harness is deep, and i dont even know if they work anyway (the heated part) and those crimps on the hoses suck, when i replaced my washer pump i busted the T and the elbows pretty easily.

we'll see!!

500

Just a quick update for anyone that may be curious: That Lisle pin tool that I linked to (http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1020) for removing the female pins (mirror) and male pins (washer jets) worked just fine.

Having said that, snipping the wires and splicing in connectors is still a viable way to go...

Just FYI

Thanks!