Crackmonkey

So now that I figured out to put Mi T&SUV 5w40 in my '78 924 w/ VW 2.0L

See Post "What weight oil are you running?"

Well I drained the old oil and there was alot more than four Qts that I put in and it smelled like gas.

My question is how comon is this, what is causing it, and how do I fix it?

does anyone have the owners maual for US 78 924

Mighty Shilling

Leaky injectors... that's the cause IIRC

Crackmonkey

But wouldn't that just cause the cylinder to fill up with gas, how is the gas getting into the oil pan?

Mighty Shilling

the piston rings are not complete circles....they have cuts in them so they can be expanded, and therefore, do not provide a perfect seal. there is still a small (very small) gap... and there are 3 rings where the gap is present, on opposite sides of the piston. cylinder fills up, gas or coolant (if your head gasket went) finds it's way to the oil thru these small gaps.

theedge

Leaking injectors or a bad fuel pressure regulator. Its called "Cylinder Washing". Fix it ASAP, bearings dont like being lubricated with gas.

Yabo

yeah.. gas is very thin, it'll get through your rings and go down into the oil. Good point on the bearings.

hosrom_951

The FPR was new, injectors were also fine.

Most common problem would be the fuel pressure damper, i replaced that and the problem was solved.

Crackmonkey

are fuel preasure dampers the same as fuel acumulators. ill have to check the regulator. since my cart has CIS isn't the injesctor just always open all it is basicaly a nosel not a valve.

porschefig

yes, with Constant Injection Systems (I think that's right) the injecters are always spraying IIRC. Also, I MIGHT have a '78 924 owners manual. That's a BIG MIGHT so don't get your hopes up.

Mighty Shilling

that's right... early 924... FUEL DISTRIBUTOR! maybe... careful, that's like the only part on that car that is NOT cheap...

82-928/89-S2

Hi,

I've had several 924's, and this has actually happened twice to me personally. In my case it was the fuel metering plunger/valve located inside the fuel distributor that was sticking. This valve is operated by the airflow flapper door located just behind the air cleaner. The CIS systems are very reliable but don't like sitting unused for extended periods of time and are extremely susceptible to dirt or bad fuel causing the metering pin to become sticky. You'll want to get this resolved quickly as it can strip the oil off the cylinder walls during running and score the engine not to mention thinning the oil in the engine. It’s also possible to hydro lock the motor during prolonged attempted starting since the motor will be resisting starting due to flooding. I was able to fix mine by just reaching inside the air cleaner (with the filter out and the car off) and GENTLY moving the flapper to each extreme up and down (you should not hear the fuel pump running while doing this!). Start the car briefly to get the metering pin firmed up again and then repeat manually moving the flapper again the with the car off. In the mean time plan on replacing the fuel filter by the engine as well as the one just before the fuel pump by the fuel tank. Some "in tank" injector cleaner would be a good idea. Get some dry gas in the tank just as a precaution as rust will definitely cause problems with these systems.

Hope this helps!

sharky47

I helped him rebuild the fuel distributer last year and a pain in my *** it was.......

It was leaking and the pin was stuck, now the pin moves freely and it does not leak. Well, I say it moves freely, that was last year so it could have stuck since then - be a good idea to check it agian.

Crackmonkey

both fuel filters are brand new and the gas is dry i also have put some b12 throught the engine i will be putting on new feul acumulators this weekend.

ha the only part that is expensive not likely, but i checked today and the distributor is running about $1200

i also have a friend in mechanics school and he said that they worked on my exact fuel distributor i asked him to see if he can get me the orings for it or atleast where they are getting them from and ill put it on here so otheres can rebuild it right in stead of using old orings like i did.

Crackmonkey

hey ya keep me up on if you find that owners manual