I have just installed a A/C delete bracket and ordered the back schroud cover of the Alternator, after reading post here. On the schroud cover is the air vent inlet hole positioned at one o'clock?

Thanks;
Gerd

 

bump

 

No, should be at 6 o'clock - straight down, though I'm not sure how much mounting rotation of the alt your AC delete kit makes. How much does it move the alt Gerd? I need to know if the stock alt cable still works, i.e. is long enough for some guys that are getting my battery cables but have AC delete.

You should also know that to do this right you run a 60mm ID hose from the shroud forward to an air scoop in the nose. The scoop should already be there, just look underneath for a 60mm plastic flange to clamp the vent hose to.

 

I'm going to do the opposite. Need to install the A/C compressor but I'm not sure what was removed (ducts, etc).

 

I think the shroud for the AC delete option is different. I have two different shrouds in the garage, one from a car with AC and one on my AC delete car and they are physically not the same configuration. The one on my car does not point down to 6 o'clock, but more like 11 o'clock (depending on whether you're looking from the front or the back.) And I do not think it can mount to the back of the alternator in more than one orientation because of the bolt pattern. Also, I do not think it CAN mount at 6 o'clock on an AC delete car because the inlet will press against the belly pan.

Also, unless you have a 951 you do not need the shroud. The thing was included on the 951 because the turbo sits very close to the alternator on those cars.

 

The problem is the opening cut into the schroud to accept the power cable for the Altenator. There is not much slack to the cable to let is swing much either way. I also have the Iceshark light kit and that cable has plenty of slack. To get everything to fit the air vent hole turns out to be at one o'clock from the front. The vent hose will have up and around a tight fit. If I could get the vent hole down to around four or five o'clock that would be better but not enought slack in the Altenator cable. I use rubber radiator hose for the vent hose, that will last longer.

Thank you for posting all your reples.

Thanks;
Gerd
1986 951

 

Gerd,

Just drill another hole through the shroud for the alt cable and exciter wire and go buy a rubber grommet from the hardware store. That should work, shouldn't it?

 

Iceshark,

I ended up doing something similar, used gasket paper and RTV to close the hole.

I noticed a significant increase in voltage once the engine was up to temperature compared to without the shroud. This is with the a/c delete kit....the alternator must be ROASTING in the stock position without a shroud.

 

After the current biz on sponsorship, this thread will probably get pulled down after this post.

That is an OK solution. The alt really does roast if you are missing the shroud and vent hose. Vent hose is important, but the shroud is really important. You will cook the alt pretty quick if you don't have that on a turbo.

 

on my non-turbo, the new shroud installed at the 5 oclock position as viewed from the front of the car. i had plenty of alternator wiring from the starter. also, i could probably have used the old shroud again, but chose to use the new one since i paid for it.