Porsche-O-Phile

Is there a trick to this? I found last night that the 951's rotor was scorched to hell (pics pending - it's quite lovely) and would require replacement. As such the car is off the road for that and a few other minor repairs. Anyway, I noticed the old rotor was virtually impossible to remove from the shaft (and yes, I undid the 8mm bolt holding it). Eventually I had to literally bust the sucker off. Is there a less destructive / more elegant way to do this should I have to remove a rotor that is NOT destroyed anyway in the future?

MichelleJD

Mine slid right off after removing the allen screw.

shmucklebuckle

It's been a while since I replaced mine, but maybe there's enough lip on the back to use a gear puller? It's plastic, so using a propane torch to expand the rotor probably wouldn't work so well.

Granite 944

If I'm not mistaken, a lot of people use lock-tite on both the screw that holds it, and/or the bushing in the rotor itself (and they might be using the red, high strength stuff). It might always be that way, if its done that way. I know I've had to break a few off of some parts cars myself, then heat up that bushing/screw under there so I could get them off. The green (medium strength) threadlocker locktite is what I use, if at all, and only on the threads of the screw, not under the bushing.

KuHL 951

Mine was fused on also, I was changing it so I just got my vise grips and started twisting while some leverage from the back popped it right off. I put the new one on with anti-sieze on the bore and loctite on the set screw.

Porsche-O-Phile

The shaft was splined too - is it this way on your cars? IIRC the shaft on the n/a was not.

KuHL 951

No splines on the 83, just the detent depression for a single set screw.

TRWright

Dude, one of my first posts here. Trying to slide it off, it shattered into 1 million pieces, just leaving that copper ring. After an hour of pulling and prying, I got out the dremel and cut a slit in it. Even after cutting the slit, (carefully not to damage the shaft) I had to pry on it, and the damn thing popped off and flew into my intercooler at about 50MPH. That was when the fun BEGAN!! Changing the rotor gave me more problems than the turbo, no joke. . . .

KuHL 951

A freaking rotor, that Bakelite gets a bit brittle doesn't it? I bet you put rags in all those open holes now. While doing a clutch job I dropped a sensor mount bolt into that TDC inspection hole and had to undo the TT, bellhousing, PP, flywheel, and there it was between the FW and block. Duct tape is my favorite tool now

Spider

What Kuhl said- the first time I tried to remove it, I had to use vicegrips and a lot of force- a real bitch. Be certain that the two retaining screws are locked down tight, with no movement of the cap whatsoever.Shortly after replacing it, I went into this corner very aggresively while heel/toe downshifting from 4th to 2nd and heard a loud POP. The motor died ,my heart sank as i drifted to a stop I imagined the worst- Broken T belt; threw a rod, etc. Turned out that I blew the dist. cap clean off the housing.Fortunately I had my factory tool kit in the back- tightened it back down-limped home. Upon further inspection, I noticed it was slightly nicked up ,so I ended up putting on a brand new cap& rotor. Two years later- No problems.

TRWright

Steve, that is the best part. I ALWAYS put rags in every open hole. Well, the pliers were tearing up my hands when I was trying to slide the sopper ring off, so I grabbed the closest rag to wrap around them. Yep, you guessed it!

Zero10

I have had a few tough ones to get off. I usually remove the allen bolt, then slide a flat-head screwdriver down the back of it. Sometimes it will chip a bit of the Bakelite off, but usually the rotor will pop off as one piece. If it does not, I get out the hammer to coax it

Upon re-installation, I usually give the inside a good coating of grease. It tends to be the little bit of water that gets in there that causes it to sort of corrode, and lock on to the shaft.

I've dropped bolts in all the worst places as well. Then again, who hasn't?

Porsche-O-Phile

Is there a place on a 951 to drop a bolt that ISN'T a bad place?

NZ951

Wait till you have to put the distributor back on, man that can be tricky. Glad I dont have one anymore! or a rotor for that matter

Porsche-O-Phile

Found a trick to that - MARK the locations!!! Already done.