ibkevin

Looks like the search function didn't make it through the weekend. I've tried several searches to day but just keep getting dead bandwidth.

I bought a Clifford Matrix 10.5 alarm over the weekend and would like to confirm some connections before I get started. I don't have my power door stuff in yet so those connections are getting skipped.

Using a table from the Bulldog web site , I've made corrections and pinpointed where each connection is supposed to go as per the 87-88' Turbo wiring diagram. If it makes deciphering easier, I wil gladly list the mfgr's description for each harness.

For starters:
- Does the alarm have to be powered off the battery, or will the fuse block do?
- Will a vertical antenna position really increase range, I like horriz above the rear view mirror to make it less obvious.
- What's the best way of taping into a line without cutting it or using 3M clips?

Why do I always make make this so hard on myself? TIA

SDGuy

Kevin,
Its been a while since I did my alarm (and my car is an 86), but I avoided working around the fusebox or engine compartment at all (except for the hood pin switch and siren install). I used the unused firewall nipple behind the battery to route these wires though the firewall and mounted the siren behind the battery on the firewall as well since I had the battery out of the car anyway. Point the siren down to avoid getting water in it. I used an unused firewall bracket to mount the siren.

I put the alarm brain under the passenger footwell board by the DME. I used the black metal frame around the DME as my ground point (lower left where it screws into the chassis). I mounted the shock sensor to a glove box attachment point. I mounted the flashing LED/valet switch on the console at an unused switch position.

As for connections, I removed a bit of insulation and neatly soldered each connection under the dash - then either used heatshrink tubing if I could slip it over an end - or did a good taping job if I couldn't. No crimps or cheat connectors=no problems in my book!

If memory serves, I tapped the Ignition switch for always on battery 12v (red wire), ignition on 12v (Black wire) and cut the starter wire (Red/Black) for the starter disable relay. The parking light connection is tricky on our cars since there are separate left and right parking light wires and you can't short these together. The parking light wire from your alarm should therefore go through two 6 amp diodes (Radio Shack) to the grey/red and grey/black wires at the headlight switch. This is called diode isolation. The other tricky thing is the pulse to the rear hatch for "trunk open". The pulse must be 12 volts to the blue wire at the trunk opener switch at the driver footwell. But be careful, you need an extra relay. You have to lift the blue wire from the switch or you will short out the 12 volts (for some reason the switch is shorted to ground in the neutral position). So you disconnect the blue wire from the switch and send it to a extra relay at pin 30. The switch position where the blue wire WAS connected goes to relay location 87a, and 12v+ battery to 87. So when the relay is in the neutral postion, the trunk switch at the footwell still operates as normal. More on this here: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/189767-installing-keyless-entry-in-86-na-944-wiring-questions-please.html

I don't know if you already have central locking, but if not, you are going to add door actuators. Follow my instruction in this post: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/206943-i-might-have-another-feature-i-wasn-t-aware-of.html

It can get a bit difficult standing on your head under the dash to do the soldering. I probably should have pulled my steering wheel and instument cluster to get better access. Good luck. Howard

FletchDM

This is all great info! Thanks!

SDGuy

You are welcome. Here is the parking light diode isolation I used. This avoids having to use 2 relays. A person on another thread has said that diode isolation caused them problems, but use of huge 6 amp diodes has not created any problems for me. This idea is not my own - it was provided by Code Alarm, the maker of my alarm kit when I explained the 2 parking light systems in our cars. All info provided "as is" without warranty of course

ibkevin

Howard,
I'm going with the same nipple for the siren. I know space is tighter and is a little more predictable location for a brain on the drivers side, but I like the central location. My central electrics housing already has a hole for running the constant hot to the battery, I'll be using the dash switch blank (for ROW fogs, I think) for the LED, and I have ABS.

I had originally planned on taping in to the ingition and lighting switch leads but thought bigybacking spade connectors under the fuse block would provide a quick, clean and reversible set up. The Matrix has a 15 amp inline fuse, will that but too much additional load on the existing ignition circuit? Do you have access to the pin numbers used on your ignition switch, my workshop dwg doesn't show a black wire.

Power door locks and remote release for the hatch is scheduled down the road, but thanks for the info and the diode isolation. Yeah, pulling the steering wheel, cluster, and seat are the smart money.

Thanks Again

ibkevin

On closer drawing inspection, lighting switch pins 58 are marked "l" and "r". Color code to l pin is grey/white, r pin is grey/red.

SDGuy

Sounds like you got the parking light wires identified.

I've never tried piggbacking spade connectors under the fuse block. This may be a perfectly fine way to do it - I don't have any experience.

Don't quote me on this, but I think the Ignition wiring is RED on pin 30, RED-BLACK on pin 50, and BLACK on pin 15. It is easy to check. Reach up and disconnect the ignition switch connector, pull it down and look at the connections. My connector could be pulled down just to the knee panel for identification purposes. To make my actual connections, I disconnecting the battery ground and then opened the connector VERY CAREFULLY to remove each wire as I soldered to it and applied heat shrink tubing. The connector is easy to open if you study it - just don't let all the pins fall out at once.

SDGuy

Double check the color for parking light L. I still think it is grey/black - see
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...829&type=Alarm

ibkevin

Ignition pin 15 certianly looks right because it goes to pin 15 on the coil, however, it's identified as white on my dwg.

The important thing is I am armed with little enough knowledge to rip into this today!!!

Thanks Howard

Dark Lightning

I just did an alarm/keyless/remote starter my 88 951 today and lord did I hate my life. I have all of the color codes written down out the garage and I'll be making a FAQ/how-to shortly. (maybe this weekend? dunno)

Dark Lightning

Driverside parking lights are grey/black. Ask me how I know.

SDGuy

From the pic, looks like you did it right

How did you do remote start in a 5 speed? If I left my car out of gear in hilly San Diego, it would be miles from where I last left it.

skene

I hope you didn't do what I did and use vampire clips to tap into the various wires under there. It really sucks when they go bad and suddenly you can't unlock the car because there's a loose connection and you've misplaced the key to the doors......not like I've done that or anything.

Dark Lightning

In your case you're somewhatly screwed. A remote start 5-speed is wired the same as a remote start on an automatic, but the safety interlock goes to the parking brake instead of the column shifter. I'll put this all in my writeup along with more pretty pictures.

I always solder and so should everyone.

ibkevin

Getting a late start on afternoon #2. Pics and to follow, yesterday wrapped up about 10pm.

I'm supposed to be on the road in 30 hours!

Howard-my translating sucks! What I thought was white is black