Air/Oil Seperator
#1
Air/Oil Seperator
Here we go AGAIN!!! So I go out to my car to go to church, and it wont start. Im like WTF!!! So I pull the plugs, covered in oil, ****. So I pull the Jboot and the end by the throttle body is coated in oil and the throttle body and throttle body plate are also covered in oil. Will this cause a no start? If so, is my air/oil seperator bad? How the hell do I fix it!
#2
Rennlist Member
If your seperator is cracked and leaking oil, youll have to pull the intake manifold and get to it. Also, there are two seals which go bad due to engine vibration and time.
Usually youll get oil build up right at the top balance shaft, and in severe instances, oil dripping down the oil pan.
Usually youll get oil build up right at the top balance shaft, and in severe instances, oil dripping down the oil pan.
#3
Alright, well I went out and took the vacuum hose that goes from the oil filler tube off, and when I took it off the metal T that those 3 hoses go to was cover in oil and oil was dripping out of the hose. So what do I order? Just the seals? I'll try to take a pic to show you guys just how much oil is in there.
#4
bump! What are these seals called? I cant find anything on Pelican or Paragon that sounds right? Anybody else ever have this problem, and want to give me some advice??? Thanks!!!
- Aaron McClintock
- Aaron McClintock
#5
Oil separator to body seals are (in mm): 20x5, 24x5. Popular seals, not expensive. Make sure to buy silicone based (red or brown) or fluor based (green). Those nitro-buthil (black, NBR) are just to weak and often do crack. There is also oil separator internal oring which may fail. Factory sells oil separator as single unit, but it it possible to dismantle it, clean and replace the seal - I don't remember the seize (something like 60x2).
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I just dismantled my AOS. The large oring thats under the snap on cover (the internal one tkacki mentioned) was rock hard on mine, couldnt hold a vacuum. I got a generic one at NAPA. If you like, I can measure it. IIRC the OD was 72 or so...
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#8
Alrighty sounds good. So have you guys ever heard of an OA screwing up so bad that the engine doesnt like to start? I just hope Im not chasing two rabbits here.
So when these fail, how does this cause oil to be sucked up into the intake??? Are these o-rings that are between the seperator and the engine body? Wouldnt this just cause low vacuum and an oil leak? Sorry, just another one of those comprehension questions....
So when these fail, how does this cause oil to be sucked up into the intake??? Are these o-rings that are between the seperator and the engine body? Wouldnt this just cause low vacuum and an oil leak? Sorry, just another one of those comprehension questions....
#9
sorry to hijack this thread but i believe my air/oil separator is broken and PO did a ghetto job trying to save it but it is leaking. Anyone have a used one i can buy and put new rings on.
#10
Rennlist Member
Lindsey sells them. Surprisingly, companies like Pelican sell them for more.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchan...e=BREATHERTANK
http://www.lindseyracing.com/Merchan...e=BREATHERTANK
#12
Three Wheelin'
The oil filler/mist seperator works like this:
When the engine is running, heat and mechanical agitation from the crank shaft vaporizes a small quantity of the oil in the crankcase. This hot mist rises into the mist seperator where it condenses on the inner wall and then drains back to the crankcase.
Additionally, the hose from the top of the seperator to the intake boot is under a partial vacuum so that combustion blow-by gasses can be drawn into the intake.
When the seperator to block O-Rings leak, the partial vacuum will draw oil and blow-by gasses into the intake, with a resulting increase in oil consumption and possible plug fouling.
Other sources for similar leaks are the filler cap, dip stick O-Ring, and the dip stick tube seal.
You can get new O-Rings at you local dealer. PNs are: 999 701 613 40 20mm x 5mm and 999 701 661 40 24mm x 5 mm. Should run you about $11.00 for the set.
When the engine is running, heat and mechanical agitation from the crank shaft vaporizes a small quantity of the oil in the crankcase. This hot mist rises into the mist seperator where it condenses on the inner wall and then drains back to the crankcase.
Additionally, the hose from the top of the seperator to the intake boot is under a partial vacuum so that combustion blow-by gasses can be drawn into the intake.
When the seperator to block O-Rings leak, the partial vacuum will draw oil and blow-by gasses into the intake, with a resulting increase in oil consumption and possible plug fouling.
Other sources for similar leaks are the filler cap, dip stick O-Ring, and the dip stick tube seal.
You can get new O-Rings at you local dealer. PNs are: 999 701 613 40 20mm x 5mm and 999 701 661 40 24mm x 5 mm. Should run you about $11.00 for the set.
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
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Originally Posted by StupEd05
TheEdge - Please do so! I would like to find out what the measurements are for that internal ring.