Hello,

I am currently replacing motor mounts on a 1987 944S 16valve for a gentleman that lives in my area. I did the job on an 8 valve 85.5 944, but that was three years ago. I do have the factory 944 shop manuals but i left them at work today. Basically i am trying to figure out how much time it will take me to do it (seem to remember 6-7hrs.) and what would be a nice/fair price to charge for providing this service.

I also noticed that most of the warning lights on the dash of this 944 are not performing the bulb check when the ignition is switched on, I.E. the parking brake light, oil pressure warning light, alternator warning light, etc. I had the same problem with my 86.5 928 and it turned out to be a bad reverse polarity blocking diode in the "warning brain", any thoughts on this?

Thanks for any advice you may lend!

Ben Burris

1986.5 928S Indischrot AT. #1459

New motor mounts, Bilstein/Eibachs, 18" Fikse FM10's, Rear muffler bypassed, and Catless.

 

No idea, but nice car!

Your time estimate seems pretty close to me, but I could be wrong. I'm fairly new to 944s myself.

 

Motor mounts can take 3-6 hours depending upon having the right tools and experience. Just hang the motor from one of these braces:



Then disconnect the sway-bars and the rear caster-blocks from the body. Lower the crossmember 3-4 inches. Remove motor-mounts, install new ones and bolt it all back up.

 

The 944s and the na 944 are basically the same on the bottom end. The motor mount job is about a 4 hour job. can be done on hacks stands and a floor jack. the "S" makes is a little easier on the left side due to a different airbox. I usally do one side at a time. loosen the 2 upper and lower bolts and jack the motor up.. gives you just enough clearence

 

I do repairs on the side and I'd want at least $100 if you have to buy the wood maybe more. You'll be under there for a few hours. Shops get a lot for this repair.

The 944 series doesn't have a control brain for the lights that I'm aware of. I'd pull the cluster and check the bulbs and connections and start from there. The oil pressure light gets it's signal from the sender. The coolant light works off the gauge's temp sender. The parking brake light is activated by a switch under the lever. Hope this helps.

 

Thank you for all of your responses and sage advice. I think that when i did the 85's motor mounts i just put it up on stands and then used a floor jack to support under the oil pan (using a nice block of wood of course). I think the VW part numbered engine support bracket or one of these wood fabricated brackets would be the way to go if i were planning on doing it on a regular basis, but i can't see going through the effort to make one if i am only going to use it once! I will post again once i have the job completed. These mounts are so bad the whole dash and engine hood shake when at idle, it somewhat smoothes out at higher Rpm. So what amount of money are the shops charging for this? Not that i would charge even close to what they get, but i don't want to totally low ball myself either!

Ben Burris

 

If I remember correctly, with that kind of shaking, could it be a balance shaft problem? We do only have a 'half' of an engine.

 

Yeah, bad balance shaft belts. Pop the cover and look before he REALLY has a real problem (ie- a broken balance belt getting into the cam belt).

 

Yeah, i did wonder about the balance shaft but the vibration does seem to smooth out at higher Rpm's, and correct me if i am wrong but wouldn't the vibration get worse at higher engine speed if a balance shaft was out of time or belt broken? On both my 928 and the 944 with bad mounts the vibration was from idle to lower Rpm ranges and then got better with speed. What the hell, i will check the belt anyway, i don't think he has had the timing belt tension checked/retensioned since his last belt change in 2003 , so now would be the time to do it. I think i read someplace that the 1987 944S has an automatic belt tensioner for the timing belt, does that eliminate having to adjust the tension? Obviously i will still check the tension to make sure the auto tensioner working if it in fact has one.


Ben Burris

 

could be bad or missing bulbs.

$40/hr is reasonable for time spent working but if it comes back with problems on the work you did, you get to work for the big goose egg.

87951

 

The automatic tensioner really isn't automatic... You have to get the engine at TDC, then loosen the retaining bolts on the tensioner (to do the tensioning), then re-tighten the bolts. Also, the tensionser is just for the timing belt, not balance shaft. There is a seperate balance shaft belt that must be adjusted by loosening and rotating one of the pulleys (lower right of engine, I think)