NICK G.

I'am having overheating problems and I have replaced everything that has to do with WATER!!!I mean everything.I would like to know if anyone has just taken out the thermastat and ran the car.I just don't know what else to do. Thanks NICK G.

Granite 944

Everything? including the radiator? You must have missed something. If you've done everything else, and not this, your radiator is probably plugged up, restricting flow. Are you sure its not a sending unit connector, or unit itself, or bad grounds causing it to look like its overheating, yet really its not? I don't think its a real good idea to run your car a long period without having the thermostat in place, but surely not a big deal temporarly. Are the cooling fans coming on all the time? These cars will run just fine as they did from the factory IF everything is in decent condition. I put a lower rated fan switch and thermostat in my avatar car, and I think the next chance I get, I'll go back to the original, stock rated one. It runs the fans to much, and I do notice the engine runs a fair amount cooler than my other cars. I really notice it in regards to the heater inside the car. I hate the cold in the winter ya know. Good luck!

Also, have you checked your grounds? That sure will affect gauge readings.

Serge944

You've bled the system (including heater core), correct? Taking out the thermostat will cause your car to overheat in the long run.

Granite 944

Oh yeah, good point, improper bleeding will cause problems with this also. Good call!

Stan944

You can slightly improve the efficiency of cooling by reducing the amount of coolant with respect to water. Since it's warm now, you could take advantage of it for a while.
But your real problem is somewhere else. I suggest you list all things you already replaced/inspected.

Yabo

Did you replace waterpump?

NICK G.

I have replaced - new rad,new fans, all hoses, waterpump when the belts were done.Had a lower thermostat put in and I have been bleeding it often.I just drained it and replaced all fluid this weekend,and put all the covers back on the bottom because a guy I know said it would keep the air in.Both fans run all the time I know that mite not be write but it should still keep it cooler.I check the water temp when it gets up to the third and last bar.It's been at 190-205 on temp stick.The weird thing is that it runs so much cooler at night.It will stay in second to third bar all night long but drive it in the sun and in 10-15 minutes its way up past the third.Write know I have a pressure bleeder that I have been trying to us, but it does not seem to work either,But I will keep trying with it.I have jacked the car up and let it sit flat I have tried it cold and when its warm.There is no water loss either.So know I ask you guys what you think.I am about at the end with this over heating thing Let me know what you think thanks NICK G.

jpk

If you're reading temps of 190-205 with a thermometer, you are not overheating. The presurized cooling system raises the boiling point to somewhere in the neighborhood of 220-230 degrees (I don't know the exact number but I remember seeing a table somewhere based on system pressure)
The standard temp thermostat is set for 185 degrees, and the lower temp stat (from performance products) for 170.
You most likely have an electrical problem with the temperature guage. The sender is relatively inexpensive (~$20) so you might as well replace it. It's kind of a pain to get to it under the intake manifold, but it can be done. Also, take note of the condition of the wire that attaches to it. It won't hurt to change the connector (a standard female spade connector works - you should crimp and solder it on) Also, as mentioned in many other posts, check ground and power connections everywhere you see them. It is mind boggeling how sensitive these cars are to elecrical connections...
The sender is the ground for the dash gage, and the resistance of the sender is what controls the position of the needle. The sender must have good contact with the block. You will be tempted to goop on thread sealer or teflon tape to get a good water seal, but that will affect the gage reading (as me how I know...) I found a good comprimise to be carefully apply sealer to just the top 3-4 threads and thread it in.
With the lower temperature thermostat, I'm now seeing the temperature mostly at the first bar, occasionally swinging up to the second (half way) if I'm sitting in traffic. The cooling fans cycle on and off as they need to.

Serge944

Anything between 80 and 100 degrees Celcius is what its supposed to be. Obviously, better to be closer to 80.

smokey

Sticking/defective thermostat?

NICK G.

I checked it before I hade it put in.

schumi

"overheating" generally means the temp is getting into the red zone on the gauge, which is usually around 250 degrees F (around 150 C). That is where head can start to warp and other bad stuff. 190-200 is not overheating, it is within the normal range. If you go on Clark's Garage site, you can see a method to check the calibration of your temp gauge using an ohmmeter.

hosrom_951

How is the thermoswitch? you can get a cooler version, that allows the fans to come on at 85C-91C, unlike the stock which is rated at 91C-112C (too hot is you ask me).

35thSLP

Have you checked to make sure your coolant reservoir and cap are good? If the system isn't holding pressure it could cause problems as well. It sounds more like a gauge malfunction.

Mark944na86

Serge,

This doesn't make any sense to me. Could you explain a bit more what you are getting at?

-Mark