Power steering leak (1985 944)
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: South Windsor CT
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The PS fluid is leaking in my new 1985/1 944. Just bought it and previous owner says it was quoted as a hose that needs to be replaced but because of the positioning the engine has to be pulled. This is upwards of $600, yikes!
While reading up on the problem I found this:
My car is leaking power steering fluid. Why?
The first thing to do is determine where your power steering is leaking. There are three common sources:
From the hoses on the bottom of the reservoir. This can usually be corrected by replacing the solid band clamps which Porsche originally used with more conventional "Zebra" hose clamps. Porsche provides the solution without mentioning the problem in tech bulletin book H, group 4, number 9102. The updated clamp for the supply hose is 999.512.346.02, and for the return hose it's 999.512.450.02.
There is also one of these clamps at a banjo fitting on the power steering pump. It too leaks and should be replaced. The advantage to buying these clamps from Porsche is that they have rounded edges on the bands. The flat bands on hardware store hose clamps will cut through a hose given enough time.
From the power steering pump, typically between the case halves.This is generally due to failure of a large o-ring between the case halves. The o-ring is not available from Porsche, but perhaps it can be found somewhere.
From the steering rack. If you pull back one or both of the boots over the tie rods, and there is any appreciable fluid inside the boot, then it may well be that the rack must be replaced. Porsche recommends the following diagnostic steps in tech bulletin book J, group 4, number 9308:
Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack and push aside.
Clean the rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
At an engine speed of about 1000 RPM, turn the steering to the right stop (ie, as far as it will go) and hold there under light pressure for five seconds. Repeat the procedure with the left side. Repeat eight to ten times.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack
Could it be one of these problems instead? How could i diagnose the cause? anyone else run into a similar problem?
While reading up on the problem I found this:
My car is leaking power steering fluid. Why?
The first thing to do is determine where your power steering is leaking. There are three common sources:
From the hoses on the bottom of the reservoir. This can usually be corrected by replacing the solid band clamps which Porsche originally used with more conventional "Zebra" hose clamps. Porsche provides the solution without mentioning the problem in tech bulletin book H, group 4, number 9102. The updated clamp for the supply hose is 999.512.346.02, and for the return hose it's 999.512.450.02.
There is also one of these clamps at a banjo fitting on the power steering pump. It too leaks and should be replaced. The advantage to buying these clamps from Porsche is that they have rounded edges on the bands. The flat bands on hardware store hose clamps will cut through a hose given enough time.
From the power steering pump, typically between the case halves.This is generally due to failure of a large o-ring between the case halves. The o-ring is not available from Porsche, but perhaps it can be found somewhere.
From the steering rack. If you pull back one or both of the boots over the tie rods, and there is any appreciable fluid inside the boot, then it may well be that the rack must be replaced. Porsche recommends the following diagnostic steps in tech bulletin book J, group 4, number 9308:
Remove both rubber bellows from the steering rack and push aside.
Clean the rack thoroughly in the area of the rack shaft and seals.
At an engine speed of about 1000 RPM, turn the steering to the right stop (ie, as far as it will go) and hold there under light pressure for five seconds. Repeat the procedure with the left side. Repeat eight to ten times.
If ATF is noticeable on the rack shaft or on the housing in the area of the pinion shaft, replace the rack
Could it be one of these problems instead? How could i diagnose the cause? anyone else run into a similar problem?
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is no power steering hose that requires the engine being pulled. (I just replaced all of mine when i did the rack). If one hose is leaking, then there is a good possibility that all 3 are bad. i would just start replacing them. The 3 are: PS reservoir to pump. PS rack return line to reservoir (this line has 3 rubber hoses and 2 metal hard lines. There is a rubber hose from the end of the hard line to the reservoir, there is a rubber hose between the 2 hardlines, right by the passenger front tire wheelwell, and then there is a rubber end on the end that runs across the crossmember and attaches to the rack. You don't have to replace the whole line, you can removing the crimps off the ends of each hard line, and attach standard transmission line hose (3). And the 3rd line is the PSpump to PS rack line.
#3
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree. I have had my engine in and out twice. No power steering line requires removal of the engine. Thats bulls*%t. Just check out www.vertexauto.com and pick up some Ideal (or similar) clamps at The auto parts store.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The metal cooling return line (the bigger of the hardlines) may require removal of the front bumper cover assembly to replace it. I don't know if you can drop it out the bottom or not. The line is about 160 bucks from porsche IIRC, but like i said, you can just cut off the rubber ends and replace them, keeping the hardline in place.
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pulling the engine isn't going to help you remove that line, you would still have to remove the bumper cover assembly....the bulk of the line sits up behind the passenger side blinker. The fatter of the hoses should be the one that runs down to the pump. From porsche it should be about 30-40 bucks and about 10 minutes of your time to put on.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oh when i said bigger of the lines, i didnt mean diameter wise....it is a long metal hard line that makes a few circles to act as a cooling system for the fluid. Let me see if i can find a picture of it.
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here you go, this is the main part of the metal hardline that sits up behind the passenger side blinker, and to the passenger side of the radiator. You can see the long rubber end that attaches to the reservoir (it will be the smaller of the 2 lines that actually attach to the reservoir IIRC). On the other end, you can see where the metal line ends.....a short piece of hose attaches this end to another hardline which runs across the crossmember of the car and on the other end of that hardline, is another rubber piece that attaches to the rack. Sorry to the ebay seller that i stole the picture from....I'll help him out and post a link to his sale in return: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33588
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 85Nine4Four
what would give the mechanic the impression that they had to pull the engine then?
#13
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 85Nine4Four
I dont think so but i cant be sure, It was the previous owner who talked to the mechanic then talked to me
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, then its time to get dirty and start learning how to work on your car. Get a screwdriver and start replacing hoses. You can not own a 944 and pay someone else to do the work (well you can with a very well paying job), you will dig yourself so deep in debt it won't be funny (plan $1k a year in parts alone, i think most would agree with me). There isn't anything that is too hard to do on these cars, don't be afraid to dive in. The other thing that worries me is a mechanic that will remove and replace a motor in a 944 for only 600 bucks, including the line. It is a big job to dump the motor.