hazlgreen

Has anyone dealt with this?

My driver seat is rocking slightly. It appears that the connection to the base/floor of the car has loosened, which allows for the base of the seat to rock back and forth. It is really annoying, and I am afraid that if it is not adjusted damage might occur.

Do you think this is something that can just be tightened, or is it likely that since it is loose, it is already damaged?

And, if it is loose, is it easy to tighten? I've tried to feel around, but there doesn't seem to be much room underneath for tools to even fit anywhere (the motor for the powered seat takes up most of the room). I know there has to be a way to do this, but some advice would be great.

RedlineMan

Hey;

I assume you checked the bolts into the floor? If it's not those that are loose, you better pull the seat and find out what is up. I've never seen one come loose in the frame anywhere, but it's possible something is loose, or broken.

hazlgreen

Would I get at the bolts from the back of the seat? I only took a cursory glance the other day...

Jon Moeller

6 bolts along the slider. Slide the seat forward to access the 4 in the back, and backward to access the remaining 2. They're all allen heads, 6mm, I think.

I have $10 that says that your issue will be in the slider rail, itself. For some reason (maybe my 200+ lb frame ), the two components on the slider rail tend to develop a gap that translates to fore-aft movement of the seat. I didn't spend much time determining a solution, as my new Sparcos are fixed to the floor, but I would think that you could close the gap with a vice.

Let me know if you want me to go into more detail.

-Jon

Stan944

I had a similar problem once: turned out the chassis section holding one nut/bolt from the seat rail developed a crack. This made the nut loose.
You have to remove the seat and inspect relevant components.

KuHL 951

The allen bolts (6 or 8mm?) can be accessed by sliding the seat all the way fore and aft. They are near the ends of the lower rail. If the weld nuts have broken loose you can sometimes jam a long skinny screwdriver against the nut fom the floor opening in the ends. This might give you enough leverage to tighten it up. If this is a gradual change from the norm you probably have worn tracks but I'd put money on the weld nuts.

Jon Moeller

Looks like I might end up owing Kuhl $10.

-J

Techno Duck

If you do pull the seat, i would recommend buying a 6mm hex key socket. It will cut down the time it takes to remove the seat almost in half. I have removed the seats from my car almost 3 times already, once swapping them, once fixing the switches and once putting in a FE bracket. Took me over 30 minutes to get the seats out with a regular allen key, took me all of 5 minutes to get them out after i decided to just spend the $5 and buy the hex allen socket!

KuHL 951

You can pay me in P-car parts

hazlgreen

ok, it is not the bolts (how is this for a delayed response?). I think I may have actually bent one of the rails with my imposing girth (ok, i know 225# is big, but I didn't think it huge). Jon, any suggestions?

CT944

here is why my seats were loose, and my quick solution, large washers:

Jon Moeller

I would confirm that the slack is in the rails. This is pretty easily done by removing the seat from the car, flipping it over, and checking for play by moving the rails in what would be a vertical direction if they were mounted in the car. Checking the bases (where the bolts mount to the car) wouldn't hurt, either.

-Jon

KuHL 951

Oh no...there goes my $10 bet. Taking the seat completely out is the only real way to tell where the slop is. I assume your seat bolts were cinched down tight after all?

Steve

zehnd

Ahh the broken seat syndrome. Been there done that.
Seat repair

nathan944

mine does the same thing. the wed is broken on the chassis. My solution was going to be JBwelding it back in place, anyone have a better idea?