Hey, I bought a set of Pagid Orange pads... And, I'm driving down to the track tomorrow evening for a Saturday track day. So, I wanted to put in these track pads before the event... here's the problem.

So, I undo the circlip and the brake pad wear indicator plug, but the pads aren't comming out (like the pistons are dragging a little). Now, I can force the pads out, but no way I'll be able to get these new fresh pads in there if I can barely squeeze the old pads out.

What is the trick here???

I only did this once on a 951 and the pads just lifted out. I guess I was crazy to expect the same here.

 

It's been a while since I did it, why not take your tools and equip with and do it there tomorrow with some skilled hands as mentors?

Michael

 

take the old pads, (the ones you take out) and grip them with vice grips so you can use them as a lever. Put tthem in between the rotor and the piston (just enough to pry it) and slowly apply pressure, the piston should press in. Don't force it, just go until its enough. I don't know if the S2 has the calipers with pistons only one side, if it does, tap the caliper with a hammer towards teh outside of the hub to shift it over to fit the pad, outside pad in first then push the caliper across so the nub goes into the pad, allowing the other pad to go in.

If you need clarification, let me know. It's hard to explain but easy to do.

 

Nope, there are pistons on either side. The S2 got the 4 pot Brembos like on the 951. Pads are just simply supposed to pull out of the top.

I was thinking about removing the caliper from the car. I bought the 8mm allen socket from Sears but forgot I don't have a small breaker bar (DAMN!). The mounting bolts are on there pretty good and not sure if I can break them loose with my spanner. I got a metal C-clamp and can push the calipers back with them and a block of wood... but if I can pry them somehow with the pads, that might be easer. Hmm? Any BTDT??? There must be someone who has an "easy" way to push back the pistons and get my Pagids in there.

My only previous experience is with a "floating" caliper on an Audi (i.e. crap brakes!).

 

You should still be able to do what i said. clamp a vice grip (channel locks or any other pliers may work also) if you can on the edge of any of the pads that are still in there, and try to rock it back and forth, it should eventually move the piston enough for you to slip it out, then use the pad as a lever like I said to push the piston in.

I have used this technique on about 6 different cars, all of different models brakes, etc..

 

Thanks Devon...

You are totally right. Worked great to get the old pad out... but Even with all the leverage I can get on the old pads, I can't push the pistons in enough to get my new pads in. I'm wondering if these pads are correct. They are like WAY thicker than the pads I'm pulling out (which aren't that old).

I have a 1989 Porsche 944S2, but the pads I have are for an early 951. I assumed they were the same, but maybe I shouldn't assume anything. The PN off the Pagid box reads E 1203 440 10. Is this the right pad for the S2. Looks like the same relative size of pad, but wondering if maybe the rotor/caliper size is different between the S2 and the 951.

Any help greatly appreciated!!!

 

I'm gonna play around with it more tomorrow. One more stupid question for a definate Porsche newbie...

Okay, so I was able to get the circlip at the top off by pushing inward, but I'm having trouble getting it back in. Do I grab the center with some plyers again or do I just push down on it really hard till it clicks into place. I was guessing the later, but I was pushing really hard and not getting anywhere and they crappy Robo-Grip plyers I have weren't getting much grip to try to squeeze it in from the top. Man, I feel like a total moron asking about what should be such an easy and intuitive process as changing brake pads, but obviously this is a learned task.

 

Hi Dan,

This job is much more difficult without a set of channel lock pliers. I have a pair with lots of electrical tape wrapped around the jaws that I use only to replace brake pads. The tape is to not scratch the anodized finish on the calipers when prying them apart.

You can use the channel locks on the locking pin as well. Just open them wide enough to grab the pin top and bottom and squeeze to compress it enough so that it locks into the caliper. This should do the trick, or repeat until the pin sets into the caliper again.

Did you replace the pad wear sensors or are you running without? The S2 sensors are double and the wire needs to be run through the locking pin in such a way that the wheel doesn't rub it. The locking pins on my 951 have a tab for this purpose, but on the S2 I just had to get creative running the wire.

 

Hey glad it kind of worked for you. It is a REALLY tight fit with some new pads, or at least it was for me. It was probably worse for me because I have the floating calipers but maybe someone else can help you... Are you sure you bought S2 compatable pads?

 

Hi Dan-

To make the pistons easier to push in, I always connect some tubing to the bleed valve, get a resevoir and crack it open when pushing them in, makes a world of difference. You will be able to get the pistons flush with the caliper body. As for pad thickness, they should fit fine once you get the pistons in all the way.

HTH,

 

As Riff noted you need to consider the brake fluid. When you push worn pads back you are going to have overflow. so suck some fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster or crack open a bleed nipple on the caliper.

There could be another issue of the pistons being corroded and hanging up on the seals as you try and retract them. This shouldn't be a big corrosion problem on the Porsche pistons but some crud may have attached itself to the pistons you need to clean off. It is my understanding that Porsche specified that Brembo use different, more corrosion resistant material for the pistons than Brembo normally uses.

 

Someone posted a videoclip discribing how to remove/install brakepads. I have it at home on my server. Try to do a search.

 

Hey Riff,

Thanks for the suggestion! I think I will try that. I'll crack open the bleed valve and run a clear tube into a jar and hopefully that will releave a lot of the pressure resistance I'm getting when I am trying to push the pistons back in. Hopefully that works!

BTW, I used to have a '94 S4 and a '95 S6 Avant! Great cars as well!

What's the best way to get the circlip at the top back in place? I seem to always struggle with getting it back in. Is there any easy way that I'm not aware of?

 

You don't say? Yeah, It is a very nice car and is my DD as well as child transporter. I wanted to get an Avant, but did not want to pay the premium price over the sedan.

I don't think there is an "easy" way. I always put my channel locks on the x-over section (looks like a bow of a bow tie) and press the unclipped end down with a flathead screwdriver since it allows some extra leverage and I am afraid of catching a finger in there.

Good luck and have fun at the track. We are still under snow, so no track time in the near future out here....

 

http://members.rennlist.com/schnellf...che_brakes.avi