Zero10

Sorry to stop this thread's slow descent into the archives, but I'm pulling the same move that this guy did. I didn't realize I should remove it with the bellhousing intact.... *SMACK*.
Well, time to re-attach the engine to the bellhousing, and unbolt the bellhousing from the torque tube

DanG

FYI, I had a nasty time trying to get the bell housing off on my car. My pivot pin was corroded and STUCK.

I ended using a socket (I think it was 5/8ths) and a long M8 through the center. Cranked on the bolt until the socket bottomed out on the bellhousing. Luckily my pin was so stuck that it wouldn't even spin under torque, so I was able to torque on the M8 pretty good (used a jack handle on the allen wrench for leverage!).



Once I'd torqued the bolt as much as I felt I could before the allen wrench snapped, it still hadn't budged. At this point I resorted to a pretty thin flat head screwdriver + 2lb sledge on the other end of the pin. It cracked loose on the first hit, then I was able drive it the rest of the way out.

Zero10

Well, I'm facing the same problem right now, spent about 2 hours trying to figure this out, and finally gave up to come here.
Okay, took the 10mm bolt out of the bellhousing, pushed the stop pin right in. Now what?...
I have to remove the rod that it pivots on, right?
Does it go out the top or the bottom?
I hammered the hell out of it from the bottom (after the pin was removed) with no success at all. I cranked a bolt into the threaded end, and nothing spins or moves.
Next up is to grab a long extension, and beat the living daylights out of it through the hole in the top. Am I doing the right thing?...

DanG

Mine was a royal PITA to get out. I definitely think "cracking" it loose with the bolt at the end is better than just smacking it with a sledge. Even if you just bottom out an M8 in the end. The idea is once its free (or at least not frozen) to rotate, it should be more wiling to move in/out.

Red1

It has to be pulled out from the bottom. A slide hammer works great if you have room to use it. That pin can really be stuck in there. You just have to be persistant.

Zero10

Okay, it _has_ to go out the bottom then. I was pushing it the wrong way. I'll put 2 of my 3/8" extensions together, and beat the heck out of it with a hammer. That should get it out.
I soaked it with liquid wrench yesterday, hoping that would help free it (I'm replacing the clutch, so I applied liberally . I bottomed out a M8 bolt in the hole, and tightened it until it bent. Didn't budge. Will definately need some coaxing.

Sounds like it will be a real treat to re-install. Perhaps it will get a coating of anti-sieze when it goes back in.

Red1

Keep in mind that there is a limit-pin cast into the bellhousing that keeps the shift fork pivot pin from going up too far into the bellhousing. If that hasn't been broken off or removed, you're likely to be hitting it and not the pivot pin, therefore you'll bang all day and get nothing but frustrated. That's why it didn't really go anywhere when you were hitting it from the bottom. It's upward movement is limited.

I didn't notice, are you doing this on an N/A? I did one once where the rubber clutch center disintegrated and coated the pin. It made it very difficult to get out. If you have the little 10mm retainer bolt removed, then the only thing holding the pin in is friction.

Zero10

Sorry, this is on my 951.
I removed the pin at the top of the pivot rod already, which is why I wasn't sure which way to drive the pin out.
Next time I'm up there, I will beat the living daylights out of it. Hopefully that will free it.
Has anybody considered a brass, or other metal replacement? Perhaps one that wouldn't corrode in so badly?

Granite 944

You might want to look thru this recent posting about this issue. It may provide a little more help. Good luck!

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/173364-help-on-my-first-clutch-job-please.html

Zero10

Very helpful. Thank you.
I want to take a crack at it right now, but I'm so sick, that it just isn't a possibility.
I hate being sick...

nine-44

Sorry to yet again bing this post back up... I've always pushed the pin out towards the bottom, I see no reason why you can't go out the top tho. The stop pin must be out first for either unless you slide hammer it out the bottom. I've only seen the removable pin that stops the pivot rod, I don't recall one being cast in, I just may not have met one of these yet tho. Good Luck

Zero10

There isn't one cast in, it's a dowell pin that is driven in through the rear of the bellhousing. Mine is removed.

The reason I'm asking if it can go out the top is, because I beat the heck out of it with a hammer trying to push it out the top, and it didn't budge. I guess that means mine is _really_ stuck then.

Red1

I just put my bellhousing back on last night. I thought that stop pin was integral to the bellhousing casting. I've never seen one removed. I thought it was cast in, but obviously I'm wrong. I guess everything being the same color (dirty) led me to believe it was. Regardless, if it's in there, you're not going out the top with that fork rod.

They definitely can get really stuck. It's an ideal application for a slide hammer, but unless you have a lift it's hard to get the car high enough to use one.

Zero10

Well, on the up side, the engine was hanging from the rafters, now it's sitting on the ground (since it wouldn't go on the stand with the bellhousing on), so room isn't a problem. The stop pin is exactly as rusty and everything as the pivot pin is, and the whole inside of the bellhousing looks about the same, so that's a rather logical conclusion. I wish I had a slide hammer that I could attach to a M8 bolt. Mine is for body work, and is bloody huge, I think it's actually for straightening frames.

When I get a little better, I will beat it out the bottom

DanG

Try the socket (or the right ID section of pipe) method, with an M8 and some washers. I beat the begeezus out of mine from the top, nothing doing. Then, used the socket/M8 to preload the pin in the "pulling out" direction, and smacked it again. It moved on the first few hits.