Bad Caster Block - Good Caster Block!
#1
The Carnage King
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Yeah... went to replace those today, which was REALLY easy. Probably the quickest job I've done in 6 months on the car. Anyway, I'll let the photo speak for itself... it isnt pretty.
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#3
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As I recall the big eccentric bolt through the castor block clamps the inner bushing, meaning that the small-angle rotation happens in the rubber only. Therefore to minimize (un-bias) the stress in the rubber, the nut should be tightened with the car’s weight on the ground (control arm in neutral position).
#6
Defending the Border
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Mike,
I put 968's in my 951 about two months ago with VERY similar photos. I followed it with a four wheel alignment.
Combined with Delrin front sway inner bushings, Delrin rear sway bushings, and spherical ball drop links puts ALOT of the flex into the sidewalls. The new Koni's all round are nice too!
I put 968's in my 951 about two months ago with VERY similar photos. I followed it with a four wheel alignment.
Combined with Delrin front sway inner bushings, Delrin rear sway bushings, and spherical ball drop links puts ALOT of the flex into the sidewalls. The new Koni's all round are nice too!
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#12
The Carnage King
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Originally Posted by Mike C.
Those are 968 castor blocks? Where did you get them?
Originally Posted by Epic2112
What does this entail anyway? Is it just remove those two bolts, slide the castor block off, slide new one one, insert the two bolts?
#13
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Originally Posted by Epic2112
What does this entail anyway? Is it just remove those two bolts, slide the castor block off, slide new one one, insert the two bolts?
#14
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I have a bunch of the 944-style (left in the pic) caster blocks in great shape, no cracks or tearing at all, that are for sale cheap if anyone has torn ones and doesn't want to pay big money for 968 units (which are definitely a good upgrade) at this point.
Sam
Sam