Johnathan, there is a plastic spacer on the shaft right in front of the bearing that should slide off (with a little persistance), and right where you took the bolt out at, try prying the upper and lower pinch legs apart (very little needed), and it will help in order to just slide the whole thing up the shaft. When I did it last time, I just used a slide hammer with a J end on it, and banged it up and off that way. You may have to disconnect the ign switch connector behind it first, if there isn't enough wire play.

I agree with patrat, replace the entire harness to the relay box if you can source one used. It will actually be better doing this, than trying to splice into the existing IMO. If you decide to splice in short wire pieces, stagger out those splice locations so you don't end up with a big ball of splices in one spot, and solder/shrink wrap the splices good. I'll take a look at one of my '83 parts car, and see if I can salvage the harnesses from it, and I know I have a decent headlight switch. I'll look at the washer connector/wire harness in it also. Make sure your wires going back from the ign switch aren't all fried also. I'd definately plan on replacing the ign switch electrical part also. Relays at the board also. I'll check on those parts/harnesses.

 

Ken-

Thanks! After looking at it, I am going to be needing the headlight switch as well as the harness. There are only 2 burned wires, and from what I can tell, they didn't melt any others too bad, I still want to be certain. I need the harness from the dash to the fuse box. This should include the gauges, hazard switch, defrost switch and the headlight switch. I pulled the main fuse box under the dash and nothing (that I can see) is toast under there.

Also, the electronic part where the plug connects to the ignition is toast. I cannot get it out from behind, and I can't seem to pull the assembly out still.

Steve - there is not a circlip on this bearing. So, since I can't turn the key, I'm at an endpass.

So, if there is anyone that can supply me with the parts (I hope your parts car has them, Ken) I can get this done Since this is my daily driver, I am in a tight spot

 

Sorry Jonathan,
It appears the 85.5+ cars were the ones with the circlip over the bearing and that was the one I was looking at when we talked on the phone. Have you been able to get that frozen key to disengage the wheel lock yet? I'm sure that is what's keeping you from pulling the housing off. Keep the updates coming, someone here will have the parts you need. Is a sliding hammer the only way to get the lock cylinder off if the key is locked at position 1?

Steve

 

Ok - I am able to get the key turned over now, but it won't disengage that pin that locks that *&$*&*@$& #*$& thing on!

I think since the plastic toasted, it is holding that pin in place. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. Is there any way to get that white plastic piece out? I think that's the ignition module? Am I correct?

P.S. I took this picture under the dash with the DME removed.

 

Johnathan,
after looking at my parts car, I can honestly say, you don't really want to change the entire harness. Not unless your ready to completely remove the dashboard, start stripping out the back of the relay box, and more work to keep ya busy for quite a while. Its indeed a jumbled, crosswired, rats nest down there. The headlight switch harness was already cut off this car by the previous owner. Evidently, he had a similar incident, but much less damaging, and it seemed to have done heat damage about 12" behind the switch, right at a bundle junction. I can't remember for sure, but I believe the switch that came from this car was toast, and I'd already chucked it out. I do have shorter, cut off sections of this harness, the washer connector, and the turn signal side connector with about 8"-10" of wire on them, and they are in good shape. these came from another '83 parts car I had, and have the headlight switch from that. Heres a picture of what I got, look at the wire coloring good against yours (should be same), and if interested, let me know, hows $25.00 total (including shipping) sound? The hazard, defrost, gauges are on a separate harness setup. I can supply sections of these also, if really needed.

The white part of ign switch has a little screw that holds it in place, accessable only after removing the entire assy from the shaft. You may have to help the lock pin by prying a little? Make sure key is in tumbler and in the run position prior to removing the assy from shaft.

 

Ken - You are a lifesaver. Yes, I'll take the setup - let me know how to pay you.

I tried prying on that pin and it just won't budge

P.S. I also need the wires/connector that connects to the ignition. I hope you have this as well. Let me know how much for everything

 

Yes, you need to have the key in the ignition (and turned to the on position) to remove the ignition assembly. There is a plastic sleeve (in front of the ignition assembly) that looks like it's part of the steering column but really slides off first. Take your time with removing it. The ignition assembly should come off after this. Try prying open, a little, where the allen head bolt was too when sliding off.

You MUST replace the plastic ignition switch that plugs into the back of the assembly while you are doing this. A new one is less than $20 and chances are yours has seen many years of overly amp'd draw and use.

After you get your wiring sorted with the headlights, you might want to also consider swaping your tach to the center position (optional) installing a new speedometer cable, and all new dash bulbs at the same time. Turning your tach 180 deg and having it in the center position takes sometime to get used to at first, but I like having my engine graphically rev to 9,000 rpms AND be in the middle where you can see it! See my earlier post on this proceedure here >>
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...enter+position

Also, go buy a can of Wurth Contact Ol and use it on every connection under your dash/relay panel. Then, buy some dielectric grease and use it on the 9-pin connector in the engine compartment above your brake booster. That will keep your early 944 happy for a while.

 

I took a look at the ign. assy. I had apart. Heres a pic of part and shaft alongside for reference. I don't know what we are seeing, for sure in your pic. regarding the lock pin. It shouldn't be visable from the view your showing......unless its sheared off. Key must be in, and to the running position in order to raise the lock pin into the tumbler. Once you pull key out, lock pin will drop into place. I'll check, and make sure I have the other stuff, I'll PM you.

 

Ken - You see your middle pic... those two ribs that run on either side of the screw. I think that's what we're seeing in my pic. So, I'll just have to try and turn harder. What's the worst that could happen? I have to replace that tumbler anyway.

 

Sent you a PM, Ken. Also in case Ken doesn't have one, does anyone have a steering-lock housing they would like to sell me? I'm probably going to have to get this one off with drill bits and other crazy tools. UNLESS someone has an easier way to get this thing off!

Thanks!

 

Jonathan -

Please continue to take pics of your ordeal. A final write up with them would be handy to have on the forums.

Best to you!

 

I am pleased to announce she is back up and running! It was not as bad as I first imagined, but was a tough job none-the-less. Well, here is a final write-up with pictures:

It appears that when I changed out the speedo and put the windshield wiper/turn signal assembly back together, I did not get it seated well. This caused the upper right harness to get rubbed and short out. The short traveled to the ignition switch then to the headlight switch.

After pulling it all apart, I noticed I had 2 fried wires along with a fried ignition and headlight switch.

What I replaced:

The 2 wires that got fried.
The headlight switch and connector
The Ignition switch and connector
The upper/left connector on the wiper/turn signal assembly

What I had to remove to get to everything:

Steering wheel
Turn Signal / Wiper assembly
Gauges
DME

How I did it:

First of all, I had to get the steering lock housing off since the ignition was fried and melted the plastic around the pin to the "locked" position. I had to drill out the housing as shown in the first picture.

Once I got that off, I tracked down the fried wires. I had to remove all the tape around the wire bundles. After that, I removed the two fried wires. The plastic was melted to some adjoining wires, but did not seem to cause a problem.

Then, cut off the old connectors. (Make sure the wire colors match!) I stripped the wires, slid the proper sized "Heat Shrink" sleeves over the wires. (Be sure to keep them as far away from the place where you will be making the connection) Then, I twisted all the wires together.

After that, I twisted some solder around the wires. (See Pic) Also, be sure you use Resin Core solder. Acid core solder is not the right stuff.

I soldered all the wires together. Then, I slid the heat shrink sleeves up over the repair and used a torch to heat the sleeves in place.

I put the ignition back in place, tested everything, and viola, it worked.

After all the repairs were made, I used Friction Tape to bind the bundles together. Don't use electrical tape... It's really hard to get off if you need to do so in the future.

After that, I put everything back together and took her out for a test drive.

If you are ever in this situation, please email me, I may be able to help you out.

Pictures of the project...

 

My GOD that looks like alot of work... BUT, i would let you work on my car ANYTIME!!! Looks like you did an incredible job!

 

looks like the situation i describe, just yours ended up slightly worse.yuck.

 

BTDT. I still have to replace the harness to the light switch- this will be a GREAT help! Thanks for the write-up.

FWIW, my light switch started smoking after installing a "new" head light motor- burnt the insulation back about 4" and toasted the switch, the connector on the headlight motor and it's wiring.

white smoke pouring out of the dash is very unnerving.