Key won't turn :(
#1
Burning Brakes
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Car has been sitting for about a week and a half. Temps gone from 13-50 and back again a few times.
Started OK the first time, took a bit of wiggling on the key to get it to turn, but was able to get it to move without too much effort and no cracking sounds (at least that I heard). Started well, a bit slow, but I was fully expecting to have to jump it.
Replaced the headlight relay while the car was running (but headlights off). Turned it off, then when I tried to turn it on again, the key wont budge. It's like the steering wheel has been turned to that lock position, but I've turned the wheel back and forth and the key still wont turn.
Any suggestions ?
Started OK the first time, took a bit of wiggling on the key to get it to turn, but was able to get it to move without too much effort and no cracking sounds (at least that I heard). Started well, a bit slow, but I was fully expecting to have to jump it.
Replaced the headlight relay while the car was running (but headlights off). Turned it off, then when I tried to turn it on again, the key wont budge. It's like the steering wheel has been turned to that lock position, but I've turned the wheel back and forth and the key still wont turn.
Any suggestions ?
#3
Hey Man
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I have a constant problem with my ignition key also. I always have to jiggle it, turn the steering wheel, and even then it's hit and miss. I'm wondering if a new lock cylinder would help or not. It would be good if the dealer can match the lock cylinder by vin number, I don't have the key ID tag anymore which would make it so easy.
#4
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Can you pull the key out? If you do, try putting ground pencil lead (graphite) on the key blade and lubing the lock cylinder that way. I've seen people have great results with this! Otherwise, WD-40 is a good start.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by 2Tight
I have a constant problem with my ignition key also. I always have to jiggle it, turn the steering wheel, and even then it's hit and miss. I'm wondering if a new lock cylinder would help or not. It would be good if the dealer can match the lock cylinder by vin number, I don't have the key ID tag anymore which would make it so easy.
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#8
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If it's really bad, you need to replace the ignition lock cylinder. This happened to my 83. It's still a good idea to try the graphite first, though. It seems to work very well.
#9
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Originally Posted by 2Tight
I'm wondering if a new lock cylinder would help or not. It would be good if the dealer can match the lock cylinder by vin number, I don't have the key ID tag anymore which would make it so easy.
#12
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
If it's really bad, you need to replace the ignition lock cylinder. This happened to my 83. It's still a good idea to try the graphite first, though. It seems to work very well.
#13
Burning Brakes
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I've realised something else - I can turn the steering wheel a fair bit back and forth and it never locks in place. I can't remember 100% if it did that before, but don't most cars lock the steering wheel if you turn it past a certain point with the ignition off ?
Makes me suspect a linkage has broken or something thats not locking the wheel, but making the switch think it's always turned. Anyone know if that's a mechanical or electrical connection.
Anyone know of any tutorials on removing the ignition switch ?
Makes me suspect a linkage has broken or something thats not locking the wheel, but making the switch think it's always turned. Anyone know if that's a mechanical or electrical connection.
Anyone know of any tutorials on removing the ignition switch ?
#14
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mroberts, the steering wheel should lock. Sounds like the tumblers are gummed up. Maybe 2Tight can tell you how to remove the ignition switch.
TheStig, try a hardware store, Home Depot, etc. for graphite. Probably any place that cuts keys.
TheStig, try a hardware store, Home Depot, etc. for graphite. Probably any place that cuts keys.
#15
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I'm really not familiar with the newer 85.5 ignition switch and housing. The early cars are 1-piece and quite different. I'm pretty sure that the lock cylinder housing has to be drilled at a particular spot to release the lock cylinder with a pin inserted in the hole. This true for both styles. The steering lock bar is mechanically retracted by turning the key to the right. When you turn the car off the bar is released and waits for the steering shaft detent to line up. The ignition switch comes off with a single screw. It might be easier to just buy a used housing with a working lock and key. Unless you have your key ID number you are going to get a different lock cylinder than the rest of the car anyway.
I'm not sure if it helps but here's a scanned shot of what's needed on the 85.5 to 87 model to get the lock cylinder out.
I'm not sure if it helps but here's a scanned shot of what's needed on the 85.5 to 87 model to get the lock cylinder out.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/lock_copy.jpg)