advice: The new baby needs shocks, rear brake pads
#16
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by maelune
Hi,
I bought the car so that I could feel like I am in command of the road. All my previous cars felt unsafe when I drove the way I want to. I want to buy shocks that hold the road and keep me as in command as possible. Comfort is definitely second to safety and control.
I bought the car so that I could feel like I am in command of the road. All my previous cars felt unsafe when I drove the way I want to. I want to buy shocks that hold the road and keep me as in command as possible. Comfort is definitely second to safety and control.
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/kyb/pro...8643da445c8574
That will be the best source.
#17
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Porsche-O-Phile
I just put the Mintex C-Techs on the 944. . . they seem pretty good thus far.
I think the best aftermarket pads I've had on the car for all round use are PBR.
Can second Serge's suggestion on the KYBs, but let's not kid ourselves. This is a cheap shock. They don't last nearly as long as any of the other more pricy options. Most people rave about Konis adjustables. Bilsteins are great, but tend to be a bit too stiff.
#18
Race Director
"I bought the car so that I could feel like I am in command of the road. All my previous cars felt unsafe when I drove the way I want to. I want to buy shocks that hold the road and keep me as in command as possible. Comfort is definitely second to safety and control."
M, what are you planning on doing with the car? Sounds like some semi-spirited driving may be in the books. The design of the 944 already has been optimized to give you a good combination of control/safety, performance and comfort (in roughly that order). The really special part about the Porsche compared to any other car you may have driven is its connection to the driver. You can intimately feel every message on your hands and butt that the car's communicating through the steering wheel and seat. Nothing compares to the incredible sensations you get when driving through the mountains and the car just responds telepathically as if you were one. It's like the immense satisfaction you get when dancing with a great partner who can sense all your intentions and leads you to where you want to go before you even know it.
What is your budget? Personally, I like to upgrade each part only once if I can. In 1987, the 944 got sealed struts with non-replaceable inserts, so you have to replace the entire strut assembly (this rules out KYB inserts):
front struts: Easiest option here is to get the "hacksaw/sawzall" adjustable Koni struts from Paragon Products. These are converted struts with a new adjustable Koni insert installed. Cheaper than replacement stock Boge struts, with better performance. This will let you dial in the exact amount of shock-damping you want.
rear shocks: Strangely enough, I like Bilstein Sport shocks (green) in the rear. They are slightly stiffer than the Bilstein Heavy Duty (yellow). They also have a wider operating range than the Konis so they don't need the adjustable feature. They can handle sharp quick bumps like railroad tracks as well as large undulating waves like whoop-de-doos on the road.
brake pads: I use basic organic Raybestos pads from Kragen/Pep Boys/Autozone for $25 a set. All street pads give pretty much same performance in street driving. On the track, I'll switch out to Pagid race pads of the usual variety, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, etc... In my experience, there is no such thing as a brake pad that'll work well on both the street and racetrack, because you end up compromising too much of either street or racetrack performance to get them to work 75% decent at both.
M, what are you planning on doing with the car? Sounds like some semi-spirited driving may be in the books. The design of the 944 already has been optimized to give you a good combination of control/safety, performance and comfort (in roughly that order). The really special part about the Porsche compared to any other car you may have driven is its connection to the driver. You can intimately feel every message on your hands and butt that the car's communicating through the steering wheel and seat. Nothing compares to the incredible sensations you get when driving through the mountains and the car just responds telepathically as if you were one. It's like the immense satisfaction you get when dancing with a great partner who can sense all your intentions and leads you to where you want to go before you even know it.
What is your budget? Personally, I like to upgrade each part only once if I can. In 1987, the 944 got sealed struts with non-replaceable inserts, so you have to replace the entire strut assembly (this rules out KYB inserts):
front struts: Easiest option here is to get the "hacksaw/sawzall" adjustable Koni struts from Paragon Products. These are converted struts with a new adjustable Koni insert installed. Cheaper than replacement stock Boge struts, with better performance. This will let you dial in the exact amount of shock-damping you want.
rear shocks: Strangely enough, I like Bilstein Sport shocks (green) in the rear. They are slightly stiffer than the Bilstein Heavy Duty (yellow). They also have a wider operating range than the Konis so they don't need the adjustable feature. They can handle sharp quick bumps like railroad tracks as well as large undulating waves like whoop-de-doos on the road.
brake pads: I use basic organic Raybestos pads from Kragen/Pep Boys/Autozone for $25 a set. All street pads give pretty much same performance in street driving. On the track, I'll switch out to Pagid race pads of the usual variety, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet, etc... In my experience, there is no such thing as a brake pad that'll work well on both the street and racetrack, because you end up compromising too much of either street or racetrack performance to get them to work 75% decent at both.
#19
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A bit off-topic here but has anyone heard of a rear coil-over conversion that can work with the early (pre 85.5) cars? All the ones I ever see are for the 85.5+ models but I'm unsure of the exact differences in the mounting points (and I'm too lazy to jack up both of 'em just to see). I'm just scheming about how to ultimately plan the suspension for the Callaway project. . .
#20
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Maelune,
I had an '87na for three years. I bought it with 73Kmiles and sold it with 120K. Great car. My advice- listen to Danno. In addition to that, I would add a rear sway bar and go up one size in the front. Do them at the same time. After that, maybe put new shocks and struts. I have Konis on my present car. Measure your front sway bar and rear if it has one and post the results.
Happy motoring.
Lou
I had an '87na for three years. I bought it with 73Kmiles and sold it with 120K. Great car. My advice- listen to Danno. In addition to that, I would add a rear sway bar and go up one size in the front. Do them at the same time. After that, maybe put new shocks and struts. I have Konis on my present car. Measure your front sway bar and rear if it has one and post the results.
Happy motoring.
Lou
#21
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One more thing, buy stock rotors. Cross drilled, slotted, etc. look cool, but don't buy them for a street car or budget race car, unless it is for looks. I would not blame you for buying drilled rotors for looks, just don't do it for performance.
Lou
Lou
#23
Friendly bit of advice, Maelune... make sure your timing belt is current on its service first, or you won't be enjoying your car very long. I have seen the "boys" posting page upon page of drivel, and have yet to see anyone one mention that...
As far as suspension goes, you are getting some decent advice here... I like Bilstein HD's all the way around the car, but I had to modify a set of early model strut housings to make it work on my later model cars. If you want to know more about that, pm me... Its a pretty basic mod but you might be better served going with KY's and driving your car a bit and getting used to it before you start modding it.
Regards,
As far as suspension goes, you are getting some decent advice here... I like Bilstein HD's all the way around the car, but I had to modify a set of early model strut housings to make it work on my later model cars. If you want to know more about that, pm me... Its a pretty basic mod but you might be better served going with KY's and driving your car a bit and getting used to it before you start modding it.
Regards,
#24
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I was in the same place you are 2 years ago. I went with Koni Yellows all around. Still love them. Not way stiff, but stiffer than factory, even at the softest setting. Results = way less brake diving at stops, and less rear dive on accelleration. Get em, you'll love the ride.
As for brakes, I just put in Metalmaster pads. Cheap, and very quiet! Great for all but the harshest track use (or so I was told).
Rotors...well, I bought the Zimmerman (OEM), but not from Porsche. Work great, but the hats rusted up pretty badly. The cheaper "stock" rotors I got from - ehem - Vertex never rusted. Go figure.
Good luck!
As for brakes, I just put in Metalmaster pads. Cheap, and very quiet! Great for all but the harshest track use (or so I was told).
Rotors...well, I bought the Zimmerman (OEM), but not from Porsche. Work great, but the hats rusted up pretty badly. The cheaper "stock" rotors I got from - ehem - Vertex never rusted. Go figure.
Good luck!
Last edited by AndyK; 01-11-2005 at 05:07 PM.
#25
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Since we're in an advice-giving mood, here's a bit: When a woman asks you a question, it's generally not a good idea to use the term "rapes" in your reply.
Originally Posted by Serge944
There is no reason why you should get boges. Primitive hydraulic shock....the KYB rapes it at nearly 1/2 the cost.
#30
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Ken D
Since we're in an advice-giving mood, here's a bit: When a woman asks you a question, it's generally not a good idea to use the term "rapes" in your reply.