Scuba Steve

Is it possible for the dealer to bench test the DME? I'm kind of stuck in trying to get my car to start again, I don't have a scope so I can't tell the output of the sensors (which are new). And I don't have access to a good DME to swap in and see what happens.

There's got to be some way the dealer tests these - surely they don't have a bunch lying around to swap in when they think something is wrong with that part.

Chris_924s

not that i'm aware of. The technology for the DME's (Ours at least) and the testing apparatus was over by 1995. Very rare to have one. Better of to just resolder everything in the DME- the heat cycles cause the cold solders often present..

Scuba Steve

I just called the dealership and Auto Zone - nobody can test the thing. Resoldering my DME hasn't been easy. The solder they used melts just a little hotter than the normal stuff so it's slow going. And the two screws that hold the bottom plate on and screw into the rear of the black harness just spin in their holes. I had to drill the heads off just to get that plate off, and I'm still trying to remove the rest of the screw from the connector so I can have a look at the inside of the DME.

The gameplan is to follow pins 25 and 26 since they're coming from the reference sensor and resolder whatever they go. I'm not sure which pins are the output to the tach and ignition or I'd trace backwards from there too. Anybody with a wiring diagram know what those are for the late N/A DME?

Ken D

I believe they can be tested using the "Bosch Hammer." Floyd Wilk (a.k.a FR Wilk) is the only person I know that has one. Maybe shoot him an email and see if he'll test it for you...

www.frwilk.com/944dme/

Scuba Steve

I might try that after New Year's. As of now I've resoldered every spot on the DME that had a component installed and the car still won't start. The tach needle will move *once* when I first turn the key but no more. Has anybody experienced this?