michaelathome

I've searched through some of the threads and can't seem to find what I need. Here is where I am at (I do not know if car was running AT ALL) I was told that it did but I have not seen it "w/my own eyes"

- new battery
- dash/interior lights work
- fog lamp switch lights but no lamps.
- clock/gauges do not work
- driving lights work!
- hazard lights work!
- power windows do not work
- power mirrors do not work
- no radio installed
- no AC or fan
- I have not checked the lighter yet
- manual locks

It seems to be that NOTHING happens when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key. No clicking or noises ouside the cabin, no familiar "F/I buzz." Gauges do not jump, nothing, seems like no change w/key.

I am working on picking up a shop manual for x-mas but till then I need a bit of help. Where do I start looking? I have checked most of the under dash fuses and they seem fine but will replace all of them later tonight. Checked Clarks Garage and will look at DME later as well.

Cleaned battery terminals, trickle charged new battery to 12v, headlights retracted (were up when battery was disconnected) but do not go up when light switch is flipped, only the driving lights come on.

I know that's a lot, but I am trying to put together a shopping list for things to check later tonight. If anyone could post or PM diagrams or photos for now that would really help. All I have to work w/for now is a 76-82 924 Haynes (not much help)

Michael

CO944

Ignition switch?

deni durrell

You could always start tracing backwards and find where there is no current, especailly if you have a good battery. Sounding llike a DME or relay board issue (contacts or the relays are no good). Also, get yourself a Haynes 944 book. You will need it.

battery -> relay board -> devices

Uranium-235

Can you give more details - such as when you bought the car, under what circumstances, any recent mods or repair work, any accidents, etc? Did someone saw through a wiring harness somewhere? Are your grounds clean? Do you have power at each fuze terminal, or are both sides of the fuze dead - if so, there's a broken wire or damaged connection somewhere.

michaelathome

That's about it for now. I did only a visual on the fuse panel thisafternoon, I really didn't have much time to dive into things. The point of the post was really like I said, to get a "shopping list" of things to look at when I get the time to later thisevening. Car is new to me bought it for a song, no recent accidents, towed it home as front swing arm was not seated due to bad PO tow attempt and camber of passenger rear wheel didn't look right.

So far:
- check for power at each fuse terminal
- bypass DME (chucks garage)
- ?

Michael

deni durrell

I had a 924 with the same problems. The connections were so crappy it was just easier to get another relay board. I got one but never installed it due to me not keeping the car. So if it turns out that the board is not in great condition, I have an extra one I got from Parts Heaven that I've been holdig onto.

michaelathome

Thanks everyone, I'll let you know what I find out in a few hours as I am working on another project and won't be able to get to it for a few. Hold onto that relay board Deni as I may need it.

michaelathome

OK, heres what I have..

- Upper Fuse Bank
1 Power
2 No power
3 Power
4 Power
5 Power
6 Power
7 Not connected
8 Power
9 Power

Lower Fuse Panel
1 No power
2 No power
3 No power
4 No power
5 No power
6 Power
7 Power
8 No power
9 No power
10 No power
11 No power
12 Power
13 Power
14 Power
15 Power

I hve not started looking at relay's yet. DAMN I need a manual!

Ignition on or off makes no difference. Anyone?? Notining under the hood lights up the tester at all!

Michael

89magic98

In the meantime, before you get your manual, look here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/

.......................................

Central Electric Panel
Fuse Number Equipment Amperes
1 Low Beam, Left 8
2 Low Beam, Right 8
3 High Beam, Left 8
4 High Beam, Right 8
5 Additional High Beams 16
6 Hazard Lights 8
7 Radio, Clock, Cigar Lighter, Interior Lights 8
8 Brake Lights 8
9 Backup Lights, Turn Signals, Outside Mirror Motors 8
10 Outside Mirror Heating, Control Wire for Rear Window Defroster 16
11 Windshield Wipers 8
12 Instrument Lights, Glove Box Light, Ashtray Light, License Plate Lights 8
13 Side Markers, Right 8
14 Side Markers, Left 8
15 Front Fog Lamps 16


Auxiliary Fuse Panel
Fuse Number Equipment Amperes
1 Concealed Headlight Motor 16
2 Fuel Pump 16
3 Blower Motor 16
4 Rear Window Defogger 25
5 Condenser Fan (Air Conditioner) 16
6 Compressor, Evaporator Fan 25
7 Rear Fog Light 8
8 Power Windows 16
9 Blower, Tailgate Unlocking Motor 25

tod84944

Sounds like you have some bad grounds. Check the ground strap than runs from the firewall to the engine. Clean both ends. On the ground straps, cleaning means taking some emery cloth and sanding down both sides of the connector. Also clean the grounding point on the firewall and the engine block. Next to where the ground strap bolts to the engine, you will see a brown cable bolted to the block. That is the ground for the wiring harness and the dme, this is probley where your problem is, take it off and clean on it also and the ground point on the block. Next, un-hook your battery and get under your car and make sure that the connections on the starter are clean. Not only the big connector, but the smaller one. At this point check and see if you can get the car to crank, then report back.

michaelathome

I've looked at those and the ones that matter are not making it to the fuse panel. I am wondering what might be the break under the ho to the fuse panel.

89magic98

The other shortcut for checking the engine bellhousing ground is to use a single side from a battery jumper cable, connect one side to the negative, the other side to somewhere on the block.

What does the battery voltage to when you turn the key to the start position? Does it immediately sag? Can you turn the headlights on (without turning the key to start)?

michaelathome

Sorry, will try that now tod 98944, I looked and there are 6 or so little brown wires and a large copper braided line from the block to the firewall. There is nothing under/on the passenger side floor as far as electronics.

michaelathome

Kevin, I get no response from any position on tthe key or ignition, I wish I did!

tod84944

Your grounds are messed up. The only thing coming from the firewall to the block is the ground strap. The 6 brown wires are gound wires that have been moved from somewhere else. Just because the grounds look ok, that dosen't mean that they are. You really need to take them off and clean them good. On the early car, the dme is under the steering column. I know this sounds crazy, but make sure it's there. You can take the dme out and still have power to all of the guages and lights. Also, make sure the ground off of the battery to the side of the battery area is clean also. Both on the battery and on the body. There should not be anything on the passanger side on the early car. Only the later 85.5 and up had the dme on the passanger side. Also, turn the key on, and on the coil, test the voltage from where the green wire connects to a ground point, with the key on, you should have 12v. But untill it cranks, that will not help you any. You have to get it to turn over first.
One trick that is a little dangerous, turn the key on. Take a long lead or one jumper cable, from the battery and touch it to the hot side of the starter and see if it will turn. Just touch it to it for a second.