Help on my first clutch job, please
12-17-2004, 02:44 PM
#46
Hey Man
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Remember my post above "Brute force tempered with finesse is always my last shot at a problem...so far I'm winning."
Congratulations...now to get the bellhousing off laying on your back as rubber chunks rain down on your face..safety glasses are a must! Keep posting your progress.
Congratulations...now to get the bellhousing off laying on your back as rubber chunks rain down on your face..safety glasses are a must! Keep posting your progress.
12-17-2004, 08:26 PM
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Yup, I got it off myself.
so happy!!
No safety glasses, just squinted at the rubber. I took some pictures, so I'll post a link to them as soon as I can get them on my website. (It looks like Rennlist doesn't allow you much space to post pictures.)
so happy!!
No safety glasses, just squinted at the rubber. I took some pictures, so I'll post a link to them as soon as I can get them on my website. (It looks like Rennlist doesn't allow you much space to post pictures.)
12-17-2004, 09:40 PM
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Some pictures are posted to my webpage: http://filebox.vt.edu/users/imraan/
Just remember, they were taken with my $40 digital camera (that actually plays mp3s too!).
Just remember, they were taken with my $40 digital camera (that actually plays mp3s too!).
12-18-2004, 01:00 AM
#51
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I'm glad to hear that good progress is being made! Congrats!
I just wish I had a high speed connection, since I'm sure thats why I can't get to see any of the pics you've posted on your web site. Some day, the phone and/or cable company just might update their lines the last 2 miles or so as to reach my house, so I can be a fullfilled man........or something like that.
Congrats! but I bet ya got more work ahead! Stay close! There are plenty of well seasoned people on this site that can help ya thru it, IF you want it, so don't be afraid to ask away.
I just wish I had a high speed connection, since I'm sure thats why I can't get to see any of the pics you've posted on your web site. Some day, the phone and/or cable company just might update their lines the last 2 miles or so as to reach my house, so I can be a fullfilled man........or something like that.
Congrats! but I bet ya got more work ahead! Stay close! There are plenty of well seasoned people on this site that can help ya thru it, IF you want it, so don't be afraid to ask away.
12-18-2004, 01:30 AM
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Oooh dialup. I should have posted low res photos for you guys. Would also help this thing with running out of space every time I post.
Thanks, I'm sure I'll have more questions. Right now, I'm just feeling satisfied.
Thanks, I'm sure I'll have more questions. Right now, I'm just feeling satisfied.
12-18-2004, 08:00 AM
#54
Three Wheelin'
Invest in a nice set of Snap-on screw extractors. They are only 50.00 for a set (8 of them) new, And they have saved my *** many times. Most all the mechanics at work here have them. They are much beefier than the Esayouts that almost break.
Let us know how it goes.. I may be doing mine next, If the slave cylinder/master cylinder rebuild does not work....
Let us know how it goes.. I may be doing mine next, If the slave cylinder/master cylinder rebuild does not work....
01-13-2005, 09:54 AM
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Came back to town to work on my car. I was able to pull out the pilot bearing--thanks to autozone's loan-a-tool, and remove the old BROWN seal.
Thing is, pelicanparts shipped me a BLACK seal and I didn't realize this till last night. I know there's reportedly considerable difference, so I'm curious as to how long the BLACK seal will last. Everyone just says it's worse, but I want to know if it's gonna blow next year or it lasts 5 years instead of 15.
The question comes because otherwise, I'm completely ready to put my car back together. I'd really like to get it done in the next couple of days, b/c that's why I drove the 2.5 hrs here to do it, and once the semester starts, I think I'll not have time, like all last semester. Also, I'd have to order the part from stores around here, say 2 day shipping, and I don't know what color it is.
Against all reccomendations, I'msitting here chewing my nails, really thinking about installing the black seal.
So, any estimates on projected lifespan, (or hints to get a brown one ASAP) are appreciated.
Thing is, pelicanparts shipped me a BLACK seal and I didn't realize this till last night. I know there's reportedly considerable difference, so I'm curious as to how long the BLACK seal will last. Everyone just says it's worse, but I want to know if it's gonna blow next year or it lasts 5 years instead of 15.
The question comes because otherwise, I'm completely ready to put my car back together. I'd really like to get it done in the next couple of days, b/c that's why I drove the 2.5 hrs here to do it, and once the semester starts, I think I'll not have time, like all last semester. Also, I'd have to order the part from stores around here, say 2 day shipping, and I don't know what color it is.
Against all reccomendations, I'msitting here chewing my nails, really thinking about installing the black seal.
So, any estimates on projected lifespan, (or hints to get a brown one ASAP) are appreciated.
01-13-2005, 12:13 PM
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Having checked around to Advance, Autozone, NAPA, only NAPA which could get it (and then it'd a few days), I'm putting that black seal in. Since we don't know how long it lasts, I guess I'll find out for all of us.
01-13-2005, 12:34 PM
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I really have no experience with the longevity of the brown vs black crank seal debate. However, my guess is that the difference in reality is little or nothing, and most ya hear is rennlore. Just my guess however. If its any consolation, I just recently put a black rear seal in the engine of my '85, so I guess if its no good, we'll both leak together. Don't worry, be happy. 
01-25-2005, 07:40 PM
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speed/reference sensor adjustment without removal
Wow, I hope this is one of my last questions.
It brings me great joy to say that the car is BACK TOGETHER!
The bad news is, it doesn't want to run. My first idea:
Battery has been sitting, needs a jump. Obtained trusty friend to do so, and it fired up twice, once after I gave it a little more gas, and once after I let it sit for ~10 minutes after it appeared to be flooded from cranking. The first time, I cut it of my self, b/c I heard a a per rev or less "ticking sound" that I was worried would be the reference sensor. I think it stopped itself the 2nd time.
So I moved on to:
Too cold, wait for warmer temps It's been cold, like 12-13 deg F around here. Figure this, along with the week battery, was the problem. Even under a jump, the voltage would drop to ~9 volts when cranking (this is a drop from the 14.4 volts of the other car's system. Mine is normally 13.8 volts). In fact, I decided to rule out dead battery by disconnecting it and starting it off the other car, so all current would go into starting and not charging. This was worse, as voltage would drop to ~7 volts while cranking. time for next idea:
verify ignition system is firing Multimeter across + and - terminals of coil says that there is no signal, as does a timing light.
Check speed and reference sensor signal The tachometer not spinning, I became fairly suspicious of this. Since I couldn't get the speed and reference sensors out of the bracket without destroying them, I decided just to put them back in the adjusted position they came out with, or all the way up. I figured if it ran with them all the way out, it should do the same now.
Accordingly, I connected a mutimeter set on frequency to the speed sensor, and cranked the engine. 1.64-1.9 Hz translates to 98-114 RPM. Since the DME must see 200 RPM or greater to fire the ignition, I knew that I'd uncovered a part of the problem. I flipped the system over to AC voltage, thinking I'd verify the signal was >2.5 V, as clark's garage advises (However, I was testing at the sensor directly, not the DME plug, so I'm not sure if this applies). I was not able to read any voltages to speak of, but resistances do check out on the sensors.
My conclusion: The speed and reference sensors are too far away to create a good signal, and so the DME does not know the engine is turning.
Remedy: adjust the sensors.
I have 2 questions:
1) Does this make sense, or am I missing something?
2) since the sensors aren't coming out of the aluminum bracket without destroying them, I have to adjust them some other way than the standard washer method. Can I stick a .8 mm feeler guage through the "hole that stuff falls into" to do this, or is there some other way to adjust these sensors?
It brings me great joy to say that the car is BACK TOGETHER!
The bad news is, it doesn't want to run. My first idea:
Battery has been sitting, needs a jump. Obtained trusty friend to do so, and it fired up twice, once after I gave it a little more gas, and once after I let it sit for ~10 minutes after it appeared to be flooded from cranking. The first time, I cut it of my self, b/c I heard a a per rev or less "ticking sound" that I was worried would be the reference sensor. I think it stopped itself the 2nd time.
So I moved on to:
Too cold, wait for warmer temps It's been cold, like 12-13 deg F around here. Figure this, along with the week battery, was the problem. Even under a jump, the voltage would drop to ~9 volts when cranking (this is a drop from the 14.4 volts of the other car's system. Mine is normally 13.8 volts). In fact, I decided to rule out dead battery by disconnecting it and starting it off the other car, so all current would go into starting and not charging. This was worse, as voltage would drop to ~7 volts while cranking. time for next idea:
verify ignition system is firing Multimeter across + and - terminals of coil says that there is no signal, as does a timing light.
Check speed and reference sensor signal The tachometer not spinning, I became fairly suspicious of this. Since I couldn't get the speed and reference sensors out of the bracket without destroying them, I decided just to put them back in the adjusted position they came out with, or all the way up. I figured if it ran with them all the way out, it should do the same now.
Accordingly, I connected a mutimeter set on frequency to the speed sensor, and cranked the engine. 1.64-1.9 Hz translates to 98-114 RPM. Since the DME must see 200 RPM or greater to fire the ignition, I knew that I'd uncovered a part of the problem. I flipped the system over to AC voltage, thinking I'd verify the signal was >2.5 V, as clark's garage advises (However, I was testing at the sensor directly, not the DME plug, so I'm not sure if this applies). I was not able to read any voltages to speak of, but resistances do check out on the sensors.
My conclusion: The speed and reference sensors are too far away to create a good signal, and so the DME does not know the engine is turning.
Remedy: adjust the sensors.
I have 2 questions:
1) Does this make sense, or am I missing something?
2) since the sensors aren't coming out of the aluminum bracket without destroying them, I have to adjust them some other way than the standard washer method. Can I stick a .8 mm feeler guage through the "hole that stuff falls into" to do this, or is there some other way to adjust these sensors?
Last edited by 944IF; 01-25-2005 at 10:55 PM. Reason: boldface type
01-25-2005, 08:38 PM
#59
Race Director
"My conclusion: The speed and reference sensors are too far away to create a good signal, and so the DME does not know the engine is turning."
No way to verify the signals coming from the sensors without a oscilloscope. So physical measurements are your best best. The bracket the sensors sit on has a slotted upper hole. You loosen both bolts and rotate the bracket to move both sensors up & down. Rotate the engine by hand to verify that the sensors aren't hitting the teeth on the flywheel or the single trigger for the ref-sensor.
No way to verify the signals coming from the sensors without a oscilloscope. So physical measurements are your best best. The bracket the sensors sit on has a slotted upper hole. You loosen both bolts and rotate the bracket to move both sensors up & down. Rotate the engine by hand to verify that the sensors aren't hitting the teeth on the flywheel or the single trigger for the ref-sensor.
01-25-2005, 11:02 PM
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Yes, I know how the sensors adjust--I have taken them in and out. I just was trying to figure out how to get them adjusted properly without taking them out, because that would destroy them in this case.