KenC

I hate my new clutch, should never have done it. And to think I paid extra for this debocle!
The installation is nothing but the best.
The retailer: Dave @ Linsey Racing the best!
But my aluminum flywheel and Spec stage II (Plus additional lightening) clutch is horrible.
It rattles and is embarrising..sounds like a piece of crap. Then I have to over 2000 taking off or it stalls.
The clutch was so sensative that it was like having to learn how to drive a clutch all over again. It is not traffic friendly! Especially 1st and 2nd.
Then it wont let me "click" into a lower gear untill the speed/revs are low enough to do so. After slowing from speed (such as making a turn) or even just coming to a creeping movement after speed. I engage the clutch and it wont go into second untill under 18mph and 1st untill under 4mph. I realize the revs have to lower, however the revs are taken to ide, but my speed may still be higher. I feel if I engage the clutch and want to slow for a turn and come out of it in second I should be able to...but it sometimes only allows me to do third out of a turn, when my revs and speed are fine for second. I HATE this.
Imagine slowing for a tight slow turn and not being able to shift into 1st to come out of it, untill your already in the turn and have slowed to almost a stand still......I hate this set up....Next time its a Sachs OEM Spring set up, hell maybe even a rubber centered again...Damm!

Mikeaagesen

Let it break in. Mine was kinda gay at first, but it seemed to soften up after a few hundred miles. I have a lightened fatory fw. How light is your al. FW? I would expect it to rattle because the aluminum is really light already. After my clutch was broken in, it would only chatter when the engine was cold. Once everything is warmed up, its almost like the stock one, but with slightly sharper engaugement.

yoyoguy2

are you sure the clutch is disengaging all the way? if it wasn't it would make it hard to get into gear unless the revs were just right, which sounds like what you're describing.

Blue S2

HAHAHA i kinda like the rattling from clutches! Lets you know your car is alive in there!

Ooh, our cars already have flywheels and clutches so much more sensitive than other cars! Going lighter must be wild! I would only go lighter on the 944 if it was a track car! I can be doing 20mph in second and think im gonna stall out any second! And i have stock!

Maybe you will get used to it? Is this your daily driver?

KenC

Fridanza 6lbs for the flywheel.
You may be onto something with the clutch not disengaging? Is this an installation issue or a what, how else can I test for this?

Yabo

I imagine you have tried blipping teh throttle in between your downshifts right? (just not taking anything for granted.)

-it can be hard/bad for your clutch to just downshift without bringing the rpm's higher than they were in the previous gear.

KenC

It goes into gear real smooth. But I will just put a little pressure on the **** and lever and it engages smoothly when it does, problem is the "when it does part" I can force the the gear change, but not good. Again the transaction into the gears couldn' tbe nicer, but I just lay pressure on second and it tells me when I can go into it...It sucks!!!

RMills944

I think it's just getting used to mathching the revvs when you downshift. Are you revving up the engine much before you try to shift into the lower gear? I may have to come down there and see that thing again soon.

Matt H

Too much clutch for an NA, did they recommend it to you?

This is called chatter, once it is bedded it should be a little better. This has been the biggest complaint about the Spec clutches to date.

This is a byproduct of using a LW flywheel, it will die when coming down from the higher RPMs too, just wait.

Generally true of new clutches.

That is the way it is supposed to work, shifting into first is a general no-no.

This is a classic example of too much clutch. What did you tell them when you ordered? Did you tell them you wanted something close to stock? Why did you want the LW FW?
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Yabo

It really doesn't sound like you are revmatching. if you're in 3rd at about 2,000 rpm, try blipping the rpm's up to 3-3.5k on teh downshift, it may go in easier.

May also be what matt is saying though.

mroberts

This may or may not be related. I have a lightweight flywheel, and the car is jerky when I'm sitting right around 2000 RPM's - usually tooling around in parking lots etc.

Is this due to the fuel cut-off when you let off the throttle, combined with the lighter flywheel reducing the engine momentum and letting it drop faster ?

KenC

Dave at linsey recommended. We spoke some and he knew I had no mods and he told me anything more then that clutch would be to much. Told me that addittional lightening of it on an N/A was up to me..but not realy needed. But I had $$ to burn at the time so added $75 for that to. But seriously though I was impressed with dave and the attention he gave me over the phone. Plus the receptionist followed up via phone call that I got it. They were GREAT!

Matt H

Ken, from their website:

High clamp pressure plate, steel-backed woven organic disk. SPEC performance stage I clutch kits offer all of the performance and holding power that most enthusiasts will ever need. SPEC stage I kits are designed to be driver friendly - yet they deliver enough holding power to handle most performance modifications. Stage I will give a little bit firmer pedal than stock but not stiff. The stage I's sprung hub and full-face organic disc also ensure smooth engagement.

I dont know Lindsey but I do know they have been routinely offering far too much clutch to people. There are a number of upset people on the 951 board with Stage 3 clutches. For an NA almost anything beyond a stock type clutch is too much (or more than enough). If your primary purpose is going to track the car the clutch you got would be fine. If it is going on a date I would say you are never going to be really happy with it.

The LW FW is cool and all but for a daily driver it is not only not necessary, but kind of a PITA.

As to your assessment of Lindsey, you are nicer than I would be. You got "bad advice" and you are still maintaining the smile on your face. Let it bed in, it should get a little quieter, chatter should mostly go away, and you may even learn to like the engagement.
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hosrom_951

Not to hijack this thread, but when the PO installed a new clutch kit (stock) on my 951, it chatters and i was the first one to drive it when the new clutch was installed. And it does it 95% of the time 9now well over 30,000+kms on it).

Any signs?

Bill

Next time go with the Centerforce clutch.

It holds my 350rwhp no problem. The pedal effort is slightly LESS than the stock turbo clutch. I can drive in California rush hour, bumper to bumper, stop and go traffic, without even thinking about the clutch.

I also had my stock flywheel lightened by 7lbs. I agree with Matt H's statement that, too light of a flywheel can cause the engine to stall.

Hostrom,

A clutch can "chatter" from several reasons:
1. Disk was overheated and glazed. Replace disk.
2. Disk was soaked with oil/brake fluid. Replace disk.
3. Disk is new. Heat cycle by driving.
4. Flywheel is warped. Surface
5. Pressure plate is weak. Replace PP.
6. Pressure plate warped. Replace PP
7. Disk binding on input shaft splines. Clean splines.
8. Incorrect use of the clutch pedal. Learn how to drive a clutch.