Hate my new clutch!
#46
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David, do you change just the disk or the PP as well? What PP are you using? How many ponies do you think the cup disk is good for under hard not track driving conditions?
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Originally Posted by NZ951
David, do you change just the disk or the PP as well? What PP are you using? How many ponies do you think the cup disk is good for under hard not track driving conditions?
Now hopefully there won't be too much chatter with the new 6 puck, so we will see, I am also putting a stock flywheel back in, don't like the rapid rpm drop.
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I'm so sorry about the clutch, Ken. I know you were excited about the new set-up. Don't sell the car. Buy some more beer, and get some friends back over to help you change it out.
My experience is only with the Centerforce clutch-and I still like it. I stayed with a stock flywheel though. I've done some research, and in speaking with Fidanza, they swear that the lightweight flywheels will be different, but not horrible. I'm wondering about the "extra lightening" that was done. That Fidanza piece is 6lbs, how much more was it lightened?
Spec stage I and II clutch kits use the stock Sachs pressure plate. They actually have Sachs and the part number stamped into them (under the blue paint). Difference is in the friction material. The stage 2 has a thin strip of continuous material around the perimeter, and then "fingers" that reach into the center. It's like a modified puck clutch.
I chose the Centerforce because I wanted a little more than factory. My stock clutch lasted to 80,000 miles (per the paperwork I received with the car). I was on the fence about the LW FW, and I'm glad I didn't pick it up. I would be interested to see how the Spec I works with a stock flywheel-anybody have any comments there?
One of the guy's in our KCWS is testing a Fidanza and Spec II in an 88 951. We'll see how that turns out. However, he's driven a puck clutch before, and he knows what to expect. Incidently, one of the racers here uses a 924 flywheel, an aluminum pressure plate, and a 930 disc in his 951 track car-
My experience is only with the Centerforce clutch-and I still like it. I stayed with a stock flywheel though. I've done some research, and in speaking with Fidanza, they swear that the lightweight flywheels will be different, but not horrible. I'm wondering about the "extra lightening" that was done. That Fidanza piece is 6lbs, how much more was it lightened?
Spec stage I and II clutch kits use the stock Sachs pressure plate. They actually have Sachs and the part number stamped into them (under the blue paint). Difference is in the friction material. The stage 2 has a thin strip of continuous material around the perimeter, and then "fingers" that reach into the center. It's like a modified puck clutch.
I chose the Centerforce because I wanted a little more than factory. My stock clutch lasted to 80,000 miles (per the paperwork I received with the car). I was on the fence about the LW FW, and I'm glad I didn't pick it up. I would be interested to see how the Spec I works with a stock flywheel-anybody have any comments there?
One of the guy's in our KCWS is testing a Fidanza and Spec II in an 88 951. We'll see how that turns out. However, he's driven a puck clutch before, and he knows what to expect. Incidently, one of the racers here uses a 924 flywheel, an aluminum pressure plate, and a 930 disc in his 951 track car-
#53
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The flywheel was the spec 6lbs, it was the clutch that lightened extra. aprox 20% extra for $75 on top of the cost. I said what the hell! To be fare, Dave did say that it wasn't needed on an N/A but makes a nice touch. Lighter is always better.....I'm not so sure.
Did have some beer last few days and thought about it. The wife and I both thinking I'm going to sell it in the next few months and go with a Mercedes SLK or a year or two old Corvette AUTOMATIC. Will have to cough up some more $$$$ of course to make up the big difference!
Did have some beer last few days and thought about it. The wife and I both thinking I'm going to sell it in the next few months and go with a Mercedes SLK or a year or two old Corvette AUTOMATIC. Will have to cough up some more $$$$ of course to make up the big difference!
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Yes, My ducati clutch is dry and loud. It to get looks at a light. And if the person isn't into bikes, or knows about Ducati's - then they think theres something wrong with it. I guess the Ducati and the Porsche have something in common - Loud clutches and nothings wrong!
Both are a pain in th -ss in traffic.
Both don't want to be driven slow under 15mph.
Both take curves like they are on rails.
Both don't take much gas.
Both have **** poor lighting.
Both cost a fortune to repair.
Both get a lot of attention.
Unfortunelty both arent for sale, only thePporsche right now!
Both are a pain in th -ss in traffic.
Both don't want to be driven slow under 15mph.
Both take curves like they are on rails.
Both don't take much gas.
Both have **** poor lighting.
Both cost a fortune to repair.
Both get a lot of attention.
Unfortunelty both arent for sale, only thePporsche right now!
#58
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The disk seems is a thing you need to experiment with a little... basically I had predetermined I wanted a cup disk. It may not hold the power and I may need a kevlar disk, I have no idea... so its gonna be a wait and see thing.
#59
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Originally Posted by Bill
New flywheels usually have an anti-oxidant coating on them, was this cleaned off? This coating would imbed itself into the friction surface of the clutch disk and could cause chatter.
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![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Thanks,
David
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Well guys, I had a buddie drive my car and he stated that the clutch set up is fine. That yes, it is a bit sensative taking off from a stop. Having to rev rpms a bit otherwise it will stall. But the clutch set up is fine and that I just need to understand the mech of it and learn to drive with the set up. So I guess I just need to learn how to drive it. LOL!