I was just under the car and noticed that the 951's steering shaft's upper u-joint looks REALLY tough to get at, even if the brake booster's heat shield is to be removed.

However, the bolt for the lower u-joint that clamps onto the steering rack's pinion (?) looks much more easily accessible. Can this lower u-joint be disconnected or will it create unforeseen problems?

Also, is there supposed to be a bolt for the hole that's highlighted?

(Pic borrowed from Rennbay)


Thanks...

 

I R&R-ed my rack last summer and just removed it at the lower U-joint -- no problems. I'm thinking about doing a manual conversion, which requires the removal of that intermediate shaft. I'm not looking forward to it, precisely because of that upper U-joint....

No clue on that bolt -- something must attach there, no?

 

If i am looking at that correctly, that hole is the inspection hole for centering the rack. A plastic cap screws in there.

 

Isn't that the hole for aligning the rack into dead center? You screw the special round-end bolt into there and lightly move the rack back and forth until the small divot aligns with the bolt and then you gently tighten the bolt down to hold it in the center as you are mounting the rack.

 

Damn Karl you are fast.

 

Joe,

That's good to know and probably will save tons of work and headaches.

So how did you remove the tie rod ends? Just whack at them?


There was some non-metal plug that fell off from that general area, but I'm not sure if it was originally covering that hole. All I know is that some fluid comes out of that hole now that it's not plugged up.

Thanks!

 

Gotcha! Thanks Karl and Tifo.

 

Shouldn't be fluid inside that cap either, if so, your seals are on their way to vacation.

Sam

 

Yeah, just unbolt the lower U-joint where it clamps onto the rack. Then lower the rack and spread the U-joint clamp apart with a screwdriver. Also no way to remove that U-joint without lowering the rack due the arc of the swing.

 

Yup, if fluid came out that hole, it is time for a reseal. It should be dry. Tifo, that makes sense that there is a special screw that goes in there to keep the rack centered when installing. When i adjusted my steering, i had to keep watching that darn thing, because it would move alittle everytime i adjusted a tie rod. I think i will fashion a special bolt to go in there for next time

 

Seals are on a permanent vacation and shot. Since I'll R&R the rack on parking lot pavement, I might have to go for a rebuilt rack rather than a DIY reseal job. Stinks not having a garage...

 

Ah... the alignment hole. Should've known....

No whacking! To get the tie rod ends off the spindle, you just need to unscrew the bolt, but you may need to stabilize the bottom of the tie rod end (otherwise the bolt will spin with the innards of the tie rod ends). I jacked up the tie rod ends to used the friction generated to stabilize the botton end. Once you get the rack off, you just need a whole bunch of big wrenches.

 

I just pull back the boots and unscrew the tie rods off the rack and let them hang from the spindles. Saves a step.
There are two flats on the joints where the tie rods connect to the rack. Use a large wrench on them and unscrew. There is a small lip that crimps over into a slot in the pinion that may have to be lifted first. You will see it if it does.

 

No amount of whacking would separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles on my 83. Before I "mushroomed" them completely, I used a pickle fork that worked very well. They came out with a loud bang.

 

I have a nice little screw-type tie rod end/ball joint remover, works like a charm =)

I hate pickle-forks, they always destroy the boots, however if you're changing the tie rod ends anyways, it's a fast way to pop them out.

The trick on the alignment hole is to either taper the end of a bolt, or insert a smallish ball bearing above the bolt, then snug it up. The second way is much easier IMO.