spun bearing in my 2.7l - now selling (just the engine/head)
#17
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No specific work was done to the engine to prevent bearing problems other than keeping the oil always at full - most of the time... This was the problem, I am quite sure of it - oil starvation after a long hard left-hander. The engine had only ~50-55k miles on it - it lived most of its life in an 89 automatic (to 40k.)
#18
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i joined the rod bearing club about 7 months ago.
i asked my machinist about cross drilling the crank when he was regrinding it. he said my crank is already cross-drilled from the factory, and that cross drilling any further would potentially screw up the design of oil flow and possibly lead to oil starvation of the rods where it was not supposed to occur. what do you guys think?
i asked my machinist about cross drilling the crank when he was regrinding it. he said my crank is already cross-drilled from the factory, and that cross drilling any further would potentially screw up the design of oil flow and possibly lead to oil starvation of the rods where it was not supposed to occur. what do you guys think?
#19
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Skip, Let us know when you have the damage report on the engine =) If the cylinders aren't scraped, then I'm interested in the whole thing minus the head. Sounds like you're asking out of my price range for the head.
#20
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I know the fun of spun bearings...here's my experience...
First pic is the bearing chunks on the oil pickup tube...
Second pic is the bearing itself...yes, that's the 2 bearing halves spot-welded together cuz of the heat...I pried it off of the crankshaft like that.
First pic is the bearing chunks on the oil pickup tube...
Second pic is the bearing itself...yes, that's the 2 bearing halves spot-welded together cuz of the heat...I pried it off of the crankshaft like that.
#21
Race Car
nice bearings.
#22
Skip: Sorry to hear about your misfotion. As I recall there was quite a thread going a while back recommending cross drilling the crank. Since I know you must have taken this into consideration I am curious why you didn't (or was it on your to do list). I am not giving you a bad time but trying to collect info for a future rebuild. --Roy--
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Thanks, Roy.
All these things that make spinning a bearing harder really do add up like a Mastercard commercial. Perp drill crank, etc - $500, Accusump, etc - $500, Custom Baffle pan - $350. Since I purchased the engine for ~$2k 3 years ago, and I found a replacement 88 engine for $500, I don't feel bad about not going down the path of preservation. In real racing, not the low-ball spunk I do, folks would be concerned about losing the race from not spending the money on prevention. In my case, it's all about economy and minimizing time off the track. If I had done all of these things and still not checked the oil level as I did not, I would have an even larger investment down the drain. The mistake, ultimately, was mine. No amount of preparation could have overcome human error.
That said, I think there's some real validity to prepping the engine better to abate oiling problems in cars that are high-dollar. If I had a $10k+ 951 engine I'd certainly spend $1500 or more on prevention. Hell, I might even remember to check the oil level For $500 plus some new rod bearings, waterpump and belts, I'll be back on the road in a few weeks. Hell, I might just get 2 engines this time so I don't have to look for one next time
All these things that make spinning a bearing harder really do add up like a Mastercard commercial. Perp drill crank, etc - $500, Accusump, etc - $500, Custom Baffle pan - $350. Since I purchased the engine for ~$2k 3 years ago, and I found a replacement 88 engine for $500, I don't feel bad about not going down the path of preservation. In real racing, not the low-ball spunk I do, folks would be concerned about losing the race from not spending the money on prevention. In my case, it's all about economy and minimizing time off the track. If I had done all of these things and still not checked the oil level as I did not, I would have an even larger investment down the drain. The mistake, ultimately, was mine. No amount of preparation could have overcome human error.
That said, I think there's some real validity to prepping the engine better to abate oiling problems in cars that are high-dollar. If I had a $10k+ 951 engine I'd certainly spend $1500 or more on prevention. Hell, I might even remember to check the oil level For $500 plus some new rod bearings, waterpump and belts, I'll be back on the road in a few weeks. Hell, I might just get 2 engines this time so I don't have to look for one next time
#24
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Originally Posted by Roy LaZelle
As I recall there was quite a thread going a while back recommending cross drilling the crank.
#25
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Hey Skip, don't suppose you have an update on the motor?
Hopefully the update is 'yep, cylinders are good, selling the engine minus head to Zero10 for $50, I'll even pay shipping'
But maybe I'm dreaming...
If the rods and crank are trashed, that's okay, but if I buy it, I would be interested in getting them still.
Hopefully the update is 'yep, cylinders are good, selling the engine minus head to Zero10 for $50, I'll even pay shipping'
But maybe I'm dreaming...
If the rods and crank are trashed, that's okay, but if I buy it, I would be interested in getting them still.
#26
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Skip...
Sorry to hear about the rod bearing. I happend to me too and it sucks. What oil brand were you running?
... Well with an 88 motor you can build a 944-spec car!
Sorry to hear about the rod bearing. I happend to me too and it sucks. What oil brand were you running?
... Well with an 88 motor you can build a 944-spec car!
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All, thanks for the interest. The engine complete is sold to a local racer who will hopefully build a 3 liter monster 968 turbo. We haven't opened it up yet. I do also have my 88 engine inbound.
Yes, Joe, finally I will be legal... yet slow Dyno testing in the spring - going for 146 to the wheels.
Yes, Joe, finally I will be legal... yet slow Dyno testing in the spring - going for 146 to the wheels.
Last edited by Skip; 11-10-2004 at 02:10 PM.
#28
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146 rwhp..If you get there please do tell. If paragon sells the parts to do it they will get some money from it.
You did get 146 from the 2.7L motor. One of our racer got 138 from his spec car. Seems like 146 is not far off, but looking at the curves it is clear that 2.7L motor 146 is MUCH stronger than the 2.5L 138 944-spec motor.
You did get 146 from the 2.7L motor. One of our racer got 138 from his spec car. Seems like 146 is not far off, but looking at the curves it is clear that 2.7L motor 146 is MUCH stronger than the 2.5L 138 944-spec motor.
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Yeah, 146 is going to be tough without throwing a lot of money at it. Generally, the exhaust and chip will remain the same for the 88 2.5l. I will continue to run 110+ gas since I have a chip specifically for this. The header/exhaust is Bursch with 2.5" straight thru to the back (earplugs mandatory.) Within IT rules, I can't do too much nor do I want to pour money into a disposable engine program. It will get a cold air intake - I am honestly hoping for 2-3HP from this over the stock box - might take some fiddling with the chip. With the 88 engine producing a stock 160BHP (136RWHP) I am looking to get 10+ HP from chip/exhaust/intake (already ac-delete) and probably removing the balance shaft belt. I was trying to run 30WT oil to extract an extra 1-2 HP but will go heavier to try and preserve the bearings a bit better. At the time the 2.7l spun its bearing I was running 5W30 Mobil 1. Getting 146RWHP from the 2.7l didn't require much effort. I do honestly think that even a 2.5l with 146RWHP will not pull as hard as the 2.7l - it just won't have the torque available. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.