PorscheDoc

I am not sure of the correct products right now, but when the glass guy comes to seal it, i will see exactly what he uses to prime, seal, etc.

PorscheDoc

Yup, that is the key. Go slow and don't force anything. Lots of cutting with a utility knife and various angles will get out most of the stuff, and once you can slide a piece of that braided wire through between the glass and frame, then you can stand the glass on end and use a sawing downward motion, and it comes off pretty easy.

User 41221

The "glue" to use is 3M "Window-Weld Primerless Super Fast Urethane Auto Glass Sealant", part #08609... comes in a cartridge gun tube of 10 fl. oz. One tube will do one hatch.

The primer for the hatch is 3M Super Fast Urethane Primer, Part #08608. Thoroughly cover the area to be glued with this stuff, and follow the directions as to temp, application and time.

Use 3M Glass Cleaner, part #08968 to clean the glass prior to priming it.

Prime the glass with 3M Super Fast Urethane Primer, part #08608. This provides for UV protection of the bond, which is most likely the reason why the bond failed in the first place.

Clean up using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (great for removing old decal and pinstriping glue residue, too)... part #08984 or 08986.

Be sure to glue the glass to the frame with the frame mounted and positioned properly on the car, or else the frame may be misaligned and will leak around the frame. Trust me, you WON'T be happy if this happens, as it can't be fixed once the glass is back in place. Once you have the glass glued to the frame, get some of the blue masking tape that auto glass shops use, and tape the glass down on the body of the car, this will put proper pressure on the glass/frame bond, and then let it sit for at least 24 hours. We'll get a picture of this and show you what we mean...

Don't cheat on the chemicals, use the 3-M products I listed here, and you will be very happy with the results. Do NOT use silicon adhesives to try to "repair" your hatch, or you will have a massively bad time trying to clean it off well enough for the new adhesive to work.

By the way, I should really give some credit here... Jim Demas, a GREAT guy who used to be on the email lists, gave me the lowdown on how to do this years ago.

Regards,

User 41221

Oh, that metal trim piece at the top pops right off, just use a flat blade screw driver and be a just a little careful and you'll have it off in 20 seconds... its no problem at all, and pops right back on afterwards.

Regards,

Zero10

Crap. Mine was leaking, so I just used flowable silicon to re-seal it up. I was planning on re-sealing it next spring. Well, I'll budget a little extra time for it now.

dlr944

I had trouble locating this part on 3M's website? Should the part# be 08684?? See link: 3M Primer

PorscheDoc

Ok here are some hatch pictures, starting from the beginning. Our glass guy was busy this weekend, so we decided to attack another hatch to get it ready for him. The only difference, is these pictures are of sh944's 968 Hatch. The glass and frame have a few differences from the 944 hatch and frame (that is why a 968 spoiler will not fit a 944 hatch), but the idea is the same.

Here is a picture of one of the nuts that holds the side rubber trim to the glass. Again getting these off involves cutting a notch into a flat blade screwdriver. Other than that, they come off pretty easy. When they are tightened down, that bolt comes through the middle of the nut, that is why you need to notch a screwdriver.


This is a tool that scott modified for cutting the old seal, just a putty knife attacked with a grinder. This works better than the utility knife, because it flexes, and you get get it between the glass and frame better


Again, here you can see the differences of the 968 spoiler and how it attaches. The 944 spoiler just involves taking off the hatch pin (6 mm cheesehead, or phillips screwdriver, i have seen both), and some screws.



Here is what the hatch glass is going to look like when you get it off the car. Notice the tabs at the base or rear of the glass. These are part of the 968 frame used to attach the spoiler. The 944 will looks the same, only no tabs.


Here is the groove you are attacking and removing the old silicone. Again it just takes a lot of cutting with a utility knife, and the modified putty knife (once you get the big chunks out of the way). We found that you can make a cut right along the glass, and another cut right along the frame, and pull out the old sealant in long strips. Again then you will need the putty knife to cut underneath the glass.


Again, here you can see scott is pulling out the sealant in a long strip, working towards the rear of the glass


And again, going at it with the modified putty knife.


We worked about 2 hours on the 968 hatch today, and it still isnt apart. It is still held at the corners, but the sides, top and bottom are seperated. This 'newer' hatch (and the differences in the 968 hatch) made this much more difficult to seperate than i had with the 83 hatch. I think it just depends on how much sun they have sat under. The hatch off my 86 951 again should be an easy one as it is already seperated quite a bit.

triscadek

I had mine done for $150 and am glad I didn't do it myself.

goingboeing737

Good job guys...

Working with glass makes me crazy. I'm always afraid I will break it.

Glad to see ya doing all the pics and write up. Very helpful stuff

PorscheDoc

Yea, tell me about it, it is always a relief when the frame finally pops off the glass and you know your chances of breaking it are much less.

Triscadek, $150 for a reseal job is a hell of a price if it was done professionally, i wouldn't touch one for less than $400 if doing it outside of our group. It is a job that just takes patience, lots of cutting, more patience, maybe a little swearing, lots more cutting, and then eventually it just pops off. Definetly not rocket science though.

User 41221

Crap... here's a friendly reminder that even when you are careful and experienced at doing something, things can still go wrong. I will be exploring the weight savings benefits of a lexan hatch shortly... lol

Don't be afraid to take on this job, the problems I ran into were related to the metal brackets that the 968 hatch has on the bottom for the spoiler and the fact that I wasn't patient enough to wait for a helper. It really helps to have a second person.

If it was like the 944 hatch, I'd be cleaning glue off the frame instead of glass out of my hair. lol This is the 7th hatch I have done, and first one I have broken. No biggie, I wanted to try lexan, now I get my chance.

Regards,

88BlueTSiQuest

Damn that sucks. At least you've got a game plan in place.

Can I have your wiper hole plug?

PorscheDoc

lol, i think they are all of about 8 bucks off ebay.

Boricua944

When i did mind both times. We used like a paint stripper and it eats away at the rubber, and when an area begins to get loose we would put a wood shim in between the glass and the metal to apply preasure to seperate them. Its probly a little slower but a whole lot safer i think than prying away at glass with metal objects.

User 41221

I may look at that method for future jobs. Mind if I ask why you had to do yours twice, tho? Also, do you have a particular stripper that you prefer for the job?

That glass is certainly under tension! It was just sitting there, I wasn't touching it when it popped. I think that one of the edges got "sawed" into while using the wire, and it just let go after I set it down.

Regards,