Boricua944

I started off with some other one cant remeber and ended up with the aircraft stripper. After i finished stripping i used the denaturated alchohol or w/e its called and wiped the whole frams and glass down real good and sealed it. did that both times. Ya know that primer/paint?? thats on the glass when your removing it do you need to put ome more back on before you put the glue stuff on to reseal the hatch to the frame??

PorscheDoc

Yes, you must prime the frame and the glass, and then glue it, otherwise it will just let go again. That is why they fail in the first place, the UV rays eat through that primer, and eventually the stress pops it all loose.

User 41221

That does answer my question... unfortunately, it sounds like you will be doing it a third time. You *have* to use the metal primer on the frame and the glass primer on the glass, or it won't hold up. In addition, I have taken to putting a strip of black paint on the outside of the glass along the upper edge of the seal, to further protect it.

Regards,

Boricua944

Yea thanks for giving me hope i'll be at it again whenever finish stripping my hood down.

User 41221

lol um... sorry. Figured you'd rather know ahead of time...

Look at the bright side, you should be getting pretty good at removingth eglass by now, which is the tough part. I'm convinced that there is a real market for this and its worth about $300 per hatch, why not go into business, after you stock up on those primers?

Regards,

icat

I for one would gladly pay $300 to have mine done. The thought of breaking the glass and then having to search for a replacement is very daunting. But, like most thngs on these cars - if you take your time it's rally not that difficult. Thnaks for the write up Karl.

PorscheDoc

Hopefully here in the near future i will get it finished, showing how to do the priming, sealing etc.

Boricua944

Yea it was a whole lot easier the second time, bet it will be ten times faster the third lol. After you apply the primers do you need to sand it like you would while prepping a car? What are the names of the primers that your using?

User 41221

No sanding is necessary, just apply it, wait about twenty minutes and then run a bead of the sealant around the frame and place the glass onto the frame. I posted the part numbers for the all the chemicals earlier on this thread, altho someone posted that the part number for one of the primers wasn't current and i haven't followed up on that yet.

Regards,

Jay W

One thing I have not heard is anyone straightening out the bend in the metal frame that occurs when the glass has come loose from around the hinged area of the frame. The hatch shocks act as the fulcrum that the glass pivots across as the hatch is shut. The metal warps and the stiff glass doesnt, because the metal alone doesnt have have the strength to overcome the pressure of the shocks. I have had 3 separated hatches and all had some twisting of the frame that happens when a person pushes down to shut the hatch and the stiff glass goes down and the much weaker frame warps as the glass pulls away at the hinges. On the one hatch I had repaired, the glass guy spent some time getting the metal back to the original shape so the glass would fit into it properly. Even after that he told me there would be no warranty because the frames are never the same after they warp. The hatch lasted about a year and split apart again. I have another hatch that split after I put on new hatch shocks, and I can see the bending of the metal on that one too.

greg rx2

karl
i am about to do this job. question 1 did you use heat to soften the sealant? # 2. how much of a space did you need before you got the wire under the glass? #3 did you just use the tools shown. nothing else? #4 how did you get under the inside lip with the utility knife with glass the way it cuvres esp near the front of the car where it meets the body?
thanks for the great write up with the pics and all.
greg

Boricua944

Ya know i was just thinking bout this as i'm gettin ready to do mine again. What about putting some etching cream on the glass where the glue is goin to sit. Since the glass is slick would the roughness made by the ecthing cream help create a little surface for the glue to bond to????

michaelathome

OK..

Here's a bit of info for you DIY people. 3M makes a black single step primer 3M Part # 51135-08681 that you can spray or dab on the glass or aluminum to fill any scratches to the black paint. I used a gravity fed spray gun and it worked very well. Comes in a 4.2fl oz bottle that is MORE than enough to do a single window and frame. It is cleanable with acitate.

The second thing is 3M 51135-08609 Window Weld that's your black adhesive in a 10.5fl oz tube. Once again, more than enough to do the entire window.

I re-did mine complete glass out and scraped off all of the black surround on the glass and so far so good. 3M made the primer specifically for modern cars as most of the cars on the road today have the black UV proctectant around the edges of the glass. I'll post again once it gets a little aged.

My only suggestion is that when you re-seat the glass in the frame do it with 2 people. Start to lay the glass as close to the top edge, 1/8th of an inch max, and keep it positioned there while setting the glass the rest of the way into the frame. If you let it move to 1/4 in from top edge from the top of the edge the slide on metal cover WILL NOT entirely cover your sealant.

I'll re-do it when it fails I guess.


Michael

greg rx2

ok guys
i worked on removing my glass for 5 hours and got just the bottom of the glass separated from the frame. i even had windsheild removal wire to cut the sealant and broke a 24inch piece of wire into many small pieces trying to get it to cut the sealant. so what is the trick to freeing the glass from the frame? i must be doing something wrong. at this rate it will take me a week just to free the glass.
HELP

User 41221

I sharpened a notch into a thin putty knife with abench grinder that was very effective. A utility knife with a good supply of blades is very useful as well. The glass wire method works *okay* on the straight areas of the hatch, but sucks on the curved parts.

Get some shape thin blades and take your time. Don't pry on the glass unless you want to pick up a billion small pieces of glass. Take your time, you'll get it.

Regards, ...Scott