Quick shift lever rebuild question
10-07-2004, 03:56 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by 2Tight
the wear is not that bad, the side to side play is about 2 inches thats all.
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Andy Serrato
Side to side play of 2 inches is about 1-3/4" too much.
I'm not saying you don't need washers or circlips, but they are less than $2 at the dealer so get new ones. What I'm saying is if the shift rod bore is worn out also, you need to either bush it with the shouldered nylon 931 bushings (ala. dietermotorsports method) or do the brass bushing method like Brian mentioned. The brass method requires much more work. The best thing about the nylon bushings is they eliminate all metal-to-metal contact and can be replaced easily for $2.80 if they do wear out. Mine have lasted more than 15 months so far and my shifter doesn't move more than 1/8" when in any gear. The more play, the more wear.
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Andy Serrato
Side to side play of 2 inches is about 1-3/4" too much.
I'm not saying you don't need washers or circlips, but they are less than $2 at the dealer so get new ones. What I'm saying is if the shift rod bore is worn out also, you need to either bush it with the shouldered nylon 931 bushings (ala. dietermotorsports method) or do the brass bushing method like Brian mentioned. The brass method requires much more work. The best thing about the nylon bushings is they eliminate all metal-to-metal contact and can be replaced easily for $2.80 if they do wear out. Mine have lasted more than 15 months so far and my shifter doesn't move more than 1/8" when in any gear. The more play, the more wear.
Since this is a good topic, are there any similar wear and tear spots on top of the tranny...
10-07-2004, 04:25 PM
#17
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2 Tight I don't think the play is that far extreme. So far the distance is exactly the same as it was on my 84 and when my friend did the lever and bushing rebuild I had virtually no play at all on it. I'm gonna do the lever, bushing, washer and clip. If it doesn't do the fix then I'll sleeve it with the bushings from Dieter's. Thanks anyways for the suggestion though. I greatly appreciate it 
10-07-2004, 04:26 PM
#18
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Yes it does need drilling it just doesn't wear out again after that point. Even a brass sleeve will wear out against the pin. The lateral twist of the shift lever is what stresses the corners on the pin and rod and causes most the wear. Does the brass bushing need to be epoxied in there to stay tight or is it a loose fit? I've never tried that method so I have no idea what's involved.
10-07-2004, 04:48 PM
#19
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http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
10-07-2004, 04:53 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by TheStig
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
I didnt epoxy my little brass bushing in, I think thats only required if youre using a worn shift lever, you epoxy the bushing over it. I used a new lever and then the bushing trick to prolong its life. It would take 30 seconds to change my little brass bushing, so im happy.
10-07-2004, 05:01 PM
#22
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10-07-2004, 05:17 PM
#23
If you have 2 inches of side to side play, then have the rod bored out. I had the rod replaced and the lever replaced. It works awesome now, but the $750 is a little steep (yeah, replacing the rod means dropping the tranny). I would have rather bored the rod out and used brass tubing if I'd known that trick.
10-07-2004, 05:36 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by TheStig
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
Since you guys are talking about drilling and the Dieter's Procedure. Here ya go! My gift to you. Now I'm praying I don't have to do this
All I can say is that putting another 'metal' bushing in there will not prevent further wear on the shift tube bore. Yes it will help the shift quality and slow down wear on the pin but you will still have that loose metal bushing wearing down the outer surface of the tube. Metal-to-nylon-to-metal will always feel smoother than metal-to-metal and wear out much slower.
Whichever method you chose you have to drill anyway so the choice is up to you. Good luck.
10-07-2004, 05:56 PM
#25
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what if I grease the hell out of it with Lithium grease? Will that substantially slow the wear down more? 
I now suddenly wanna do this the right way 
btw, how do you 'twist' the shift rod like Wilk states on his website? like clockwise or counter-clockwise?
I now suddenly wanna do this the right way btw, how do you 'twist' the shift rod like Wilk states on his website? like clockwise or counter-clockwise?
10-07-2004, 06:39 PM
#27
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Andy-I used white lithium grease on the pin/tube area, I haven't had to relube it yet. The bottom cup or pivot block is a hard nylon or Viton and gets brittle from heat. Rather than try and pull the ball and socket apart in the car I just mark the outline of the bottom plate, remove the two bolts and the whole assembly lifts out. I put it all back in when I'm ready at the pre-marked location. The nylon pivot block will often crack along one the 4 expansion slots for the ball; if cracked then it should be replaced. If the nylon block isn't cracked yet, there's no need to remove the shift lever from the block at all, you risk breaking it everytime you pull the lever out of the socket.
10-07-2004, 07:19 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by TheStig
does the lower bushing have to be lubricated also (the cup bushing) with white lithium?
