Front Seat Mounts
#1
Racer
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Front Seat Mounts
My upholsterer has just fitted some of the Rennbay seat kits and has advised that the front seat mount nuts are rotating freely in the housing so he cannot tighten them down.
Do any of you guys know of a fix for this as it appears that the car is built around those nuts & welding could be detrimental to the carpet.
Do any of you guys know of a fix for this as it appears that the car is built around those nuts & welding could be detrimental to the carpet.
#2
Race Car
I had same problem. Brought it to a body shop and they said they could weld them. I think this happened to the PO of my car because on the drivers side it looks like they cut out a rectangular piece and inserted a metal bracket on the inside and bolted it to the upper part of the hump. Then redrilled the whole for the seat bolt.
#3
Burning Brakes
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I had this happen on my Silver car. Could not get 3 of the 4 bolts to engage into the nut in the floor on the drivers seat.
Was going to try and use JB Weld or something.
I ended up getting some threaded studs. With the seats out, it is pretty easy to "catch" the "floating nut" down in the floorpan.
Once you can get the studs started and tightened up you have to make sure they are not too high.
Put the seats in.
Then using nuts and lock washers you can bolt the seats down.
Just make sure that the studs are far enough down so that when you tighten down the nuts that the track will still slide all the way forward and back. This took me a couple of tries to get them "just right"
This is necessary to be able to access all four mounting points.
Basicly you are using 4 nuts to hold them down instead of 4 bolts....
Make sense?????
Good luck...
Was going to try and use JB Weld or something.
I ended up getting some threaded studs. With the seats out, it is pretty easy to "catch" the "floating nut" down in the floorpan.
Once you can get the studs started and tightened up you have to make sure they are not too high.
Put the seats in.
Then using nuts and lock washers you can bolt the seats down.
Just make sure that the studs are far enough down so that when you tighten down the nuts that the track will still slide all the way forward and back. This took me a couple of tries to get them "just right"
This is necessary to be able to access all four mounting points.
Basicly you are using 4 nuts to hold them down instead of 4 bolts....
Make sense?????
Good luck...
#4
Racer
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goingboeing737,
Sounds like a great idea hope it's not to hard to trap the nut and prevent it from rotating. Thanks for the suggestion i'll give it a go.
(By the way I'm a Boeing fan also, I'm a licensed engineer on the 747/744/767)
Sounds like a great idea hope it's not to hard to trap the nut and prevent it from rotating. Thanks for the suggestion i'll give it a go.
(By the way I'm a Boeing fan also, I'm a licensed engineer on the 747/744/767)
#6
Burning Brakes
i just replaced my front seats 2 months ago.
the nuts do float in the floor channel and it can be an extreme bitch to get in any particular bolt.
the rear bolts go in easily - i had the hardest time with the front bolts closest to the center console.
i worked on the drivers front right bolt for 1.5 hours one saturday and another 45 minutes the following saturday. i never cussed so much. i tried all sorts of tools.
what finally got it was using a universal joint on the ratchet - its all VOODOO i tell you.
the nuts do float in the floor channel and it can be an extreme bitch to get in any particular bolt.
the rear bolts go in easily - i had the hardest time with the front bolts closest to the center console.
i worked on the drivers front right bolt for 1.5 hours one saturday and another 45 minutes the following saturday. i never cussed so much. i tried all sorts of tools.
what finally got it was using a universal joint on the ratchet - its all VOODOO i tell you.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Once you have the seats out, it is rather easy to get to the nut in the little compartment on the floor pan. I used a right angle pick to hold/wedge the nut while I threaded the stud in. I used a pair of pliers to CAREFULLY tighten it down into the nut. I think it is actually threaded through more than the bolt from the original setup.
I used metric Stainless Steel studs from the ACE hardware. I just took one of the original bolts with me and got a stud that was just a little bit longer.
I am not racing, auto X'ing or anything like that. I don't know what the shear or tensile strength of this modification is. I know on my Silver car, there were only 3 bolts holding it down to start with. So, I figure this can't be any worse.. I think that the seat belt setup actually holds you in more in an accident than that seat ever will.
Then again, I hope I NEVER find out.
I used metric Stainless Steel studs from the ACE hardware. I just took one of the original bolts with me and got a stud that was just a little bit longer.
I am not racing, auto X'ing or anything like that. I don't know what the shear or tensile strength of this modification is. I know on my Silver car, there were only 3 bolts holding it down to start with. So, I figure this can't be any worse.. I think that the seat belt setup actually holds you in more in an accident than that seat ever will.
Then again, I hope I NEVER find out.
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#8
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I have the same problem, but mine have holes wear the bolts went into the floor.The girl we got the car from was a BIG girl if know what i mean.If i'm not mistaken I got the seats that I want to put in from goingboeing 737 a while ago and just haven't put them in.Trying to find the best way to fix the floor boards If any one has a good fix let me know
#9
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not part of the real question, but how do you like the rennbay seat kit,
travis is sending me a sample of the material, if its of high quality i think i'm going that
route instead of leather.... advise???
thanks
buckshot wi
travis is sending me a sample of the material, if its of high quality i think i'm going that
route instead of leather.... advise???
thanks
buckshot wi
#11
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Originally Posted by goingboeing737
I had this happen on my Silver car. Could not get 3 of the 4 bolts to engage into the nut in the floor on the drivers seat.
I ended up getting some threaded studs. With the seats out, it is pretty easy to "catch" the "floating nut" down in the floorpan.
Then using nuts and lock washers you can bolt the seats down.
This is necessary to be able to access all four mounting points.
Basicly you are using 4 nuts to hold them down instead of 4 bolts....
Make sense?????
Good luck...
I ended up getting some threaded studs. With the seats out, it is pretty easy to "catch" the "floating nut" down in the floorpan.
Then using nuts and lock washers you can bolt the seats down.
This is necessary to be able to access all four mounting points.
Basicly you are using 4 nuts to hold them down instead of 4 bolts....
Make sense?????
Good luck...
Sounds like the solution I used when I couldn't get a motor mount to line up. Bought a couple studs from the autoparts and put them on the mounts. Then I just dropped the mounts over the mounting bracket. Later (since I wasn't sure about the stud strength) I unscrewed the studs and replaced them with the regular motor mount bolts.
Last edited by dme; 10-08-2004 at 12:49 PM. Reason: backwards
#12
Burning Brakes
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Some tips for the rear bolts:
Do the front bolts for the rear bracket first, and start on the tunnel side of the seat.
The front one is the hardest to locate, and if you put the back one in first it restricts the motion of the nut plate.
Do the front bolts for the rear bracket first, and start on the tunnel side of the seat.
The front one is the hardest to locate, and if you put the back one in first it restricts the motion of the nut plate.
#13
Racer
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Buckshot,
Check out my post "New Rennbay Seat Kits Fitted."
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/163176-new-rennbay-seat-kits-fitted.html
Travis suppied additional material for the rear & I had them made up. The stuff looks & feels like leather once fiitted, even sounds like it.
Travis was a pleasure to deal with & I would highly recommend. IIn my case this option was about $1300AUD ($910USD) cheaper than having the seats done in leather.
Check out my post "New Rennbay Seat Kits Fitted."
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/163176-new-rennbay-seat-kits-fitted.html
Travis suppied additional material for the rear & I had them made up. The stuff looks & feels like leather once fiitted, even sounds like it.
Travis was a pleasure to deal with & I would highly recommend. IIn my case this option was about $1300AUD ($910USD) cheaper than having the seats done in leather.