Rear speakers???
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Rear speakers???
I am wondering if anyone knows what size speaker you can put in the rear, not the 4" x 6", but the other Porsche pre-installed location for a larger speaker (as seen in the picture)? Is it a 5" speaker? 6.5"?
Thanks ahead of time!
Chris
Thanks ahead of time!
Chris
#2
I just did this upgrade to my '87 car few months ago. What you are seeing is the block off plate for what I am assuming is the optional sound package. 6.5" speakers are what you want to get. Get out a dremel and cut that plate to fit the new speaker. Once you have it fit to the plate drill your holes and mount the speaker onto the plate, then mount the speaker/plate assembly into the existing location.
#3
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Thank you very much! Does you know if any 6.5" will work? Also, as far as the front 4" x 6" speakers, do any 4" x 6" speakers fit or are there only a few kinds that fit (Crutchfield is confusing me)?
#5
Drifting
for the fronts you need very shallow 4x6 speakers (mounting depth =small). I do not know what the spec is, but most dont fit perfectly. A so-so solution is to go to the hardware store and plastic spacers for the speaker and the grill. I think blaupunkt's new ultra slim speakers will fit, whenever it is that they finally start selling them.
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Originally Posted by patrat
for the fronts you need very shallow 4x6 speakers (mounting depth =small). I do not know what the spec is, but most dont fit perfectly. A so-so solution is to go to the hardware store and plastic spacers for the speaker and the grill. I think blaupunkt's new ultra slim speakers will fit, whenever it is that they finally start selling them.
Chris
#7
Drifting
I do know that you have to get the eurostyle oval 4x6, not the US square 4x6 speaker, due to mounting purposes, for what its worth. You could get the exact measurement by placing a straight edge across the speaker mounting hole, and then using a ruler to measure to the window track (window track is what keeps deep speakers from mounting here). That would tell you the maximum depth speaker that would properly fit. The grill may still need spacers, but who cares, even spaced it looks stock.
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#8
Race Car
Originally Posted by oi-punx
I just did this upgrade to my '87 car few months ago. What you are seeing is the block off plate for what I am assuming is the optional sound package. 6.5" speakers are what you want to get. Get out a dremel and cut that plate to fit the new speaker. Once you have it fit to the plate drill your holes and mount the speaker onto the plate, then mount the speaker/plate assembly into the existing location.
#9
Hi,
A few comments regarding the statements above.
1. Yes the speakers in the rear are 6.5 inch.
2. If you just mount the speaker in body, but don't tightly seal the area around the speaker you are really cheating yourself as the speaker will only deliver a fraction of the bass that it should. The reason for this is that "out of phase" sound emerges from the rear of the speaker and mixes with the sounds coming from the front and they cancel. This is most notable on the bass, but muddies up everything. The area directly around the speaker MUST be sealed. Think about your home speakers. The are in sealed box or they are in ported boxes with specifically designed and tuned ports.
3. If you do some additional searching on this forum you will find several posts on this rear speaker topic including at least one with some great pictures of how others have used a piece of MDF or plywood cut to fit over the existing hole and then mounted the speaker to that.
4. Put some foam behind the speakers. Half inch open cell foam is probably good. Cut a piece to fit the aread behind the speaker I"m guessing 1 foot square is a good start, but you can cut it oblong so that it will trail over the rear wheel well. However, dont' completely plug this area as it is used in part for air circulation. Also be careful not to damage the sunroof drain hoses. Just spray some glue in the hole and apply the foam. This dampens the signals from the back of the cone so they don't reflect back to the speaker. Again if you open your home speakers they are likely to be stuffed with foam or polyester.
5. Those speaker ratings that say "100 watts" are all but worthless. Far more speakers are damaged by too LITTLE power than by too much. What you want is a lot of good CLEAN power. If you want a measure of loudness or output, look at sensitivity - measured as SPL - Sound Pressure Level - that tells you how many DB's the speaker produces with one watt of input.
6. Engage in a project to quiet/sound deaden the entire car. Quiting the car is like adding more amplifier power. If your audio system is in a very quiet environment you simply don't have to turn it up as loud and hence you don't tax the amplifiers and speakers. You can search on this forum for 'deadening' and you should find some posts.
As you might guess I'm a bit of an audio nut. I have 1994 968 running the factory 10 speaker system all stock speakers. However,
1. I've done all the modifications I talk about above
- pulled the rear speakers
- foam behind them
- sealed the area around speakers
- lots of Dynamat - inside the doors, behind other body panels etc
AND
2. Added some crossover components to eliminate the bass from both the rear speakers and the fronts. The reason for this is that small or poorly mounted speakers simply can't produce a lot of bass. It's just acoustics/physics - don't fight it.
3. Bought a KLA sub box and speaker and an external amplifier. Very clean install and VERY effective.
My stock speakers with the modifications above deliver some great sound.
If I were you I'd consider replacing the front speakers only. Putting some type of Bass Blocker or FMOD in front of them and the existing rear speakers to reduce bass under 100 Hz and then adding the KLA unit in the rear hatch. There are pictures of the KLA unit here on the forum as well.
Good Luck,
Phil
A few comments regarding the statements above.
1. Yes the speakers in the rear are 6.5 inch.
2. If you just mount the speaker in body, but don't tightly seal the area around the speaker you are really cheating yourself as the speaker will only deliver a fraction of the bass that it should. The reason for this is that "out of phase" sound emerges from the rear of the speaker and mixes with the sounds coming from the front and they cancel. This is most notable on the bass, but muddies up everything. The area directly around the speaker MUST be sealed. Think about your home speakers. The are in sealed box or they are in ported boxes with specifically designed and tuned ports.
3. If you do some additional searching on this forum you will find several posts on this rear speaker topic including at least one with some great pictures of how others have used a piece of MDF or plywood cut to fit over the existing hole and then mounted the speaker to that.
4. Put some foam behind the speakers. Half inch open cell foam is probably good. Cut a piece to fit the aread behind the speaker I"m guessing 1 foot square is a good start, but you can cut it oblong so that it will trail over the rear wheel well. However, dont' completely plug this area as it is used in part for air circulation. Also be careful not to damage the sunroof drain hoses. Just spray some glue in the hole and apply the foam. This dampens the signals from the back of the cone so they don't reflect back to the speaker. Again if you open your home speakers they are likely to be stuffed with foam or polyester.
5. Those speaker ratings that say "100 watts" are all but worthless. Far more speakers are damaged by too LITTLE power than by too much. What you want is a lot of good CLEAN power. If you want a measure of loudness or output, look at sensitivity - measured as SPL - Sound Pressure Level - that tells you how many DB's the speaker produces with one watt of input.
6. Engage in a project to quiet/sound deaden the entire car. Quiting the car is like adding more amplifier power. If your audio system is in a very quiet environment you simply don't have to turn it up as loud and hence you don't tax the amplifiers and speakers. You can search on this forum for 'deadening' and you should find some posts.
As you might guess I'm a bit of an audio nut. I have 1994 968 running the factory 10 speaker system all stock speakers. However,
1. I've done all the modifications I talk about above
- pulled the rear speakers
- foam behind them
- sealed the area around speakers
- lots of Dynamat - inside the doors, behind other body panels etc
AND
2. Added some crossover components to eliminate the bass from both the rear speakers and the fronts. The reason for this is that small or poorly mounted speakers simply can't produce a lot of bass. It's just acoustics/physics - don't fight it.
3. Bought a KLA sub box and speaker and an external amplifier. Very clean install and VERY effective.
My stock speakers with the modifications above deliver some great sound.
If I were you I'd consider replacing the front speakers only. Putting some type of Bass Blocker or FMOD in front of them and the existing rear speakers to reduce bass under 100 Hz and then adding the KLA unit in the rear hatch. There are pictures of the KLA unit here on the forum as well.
Good Luck,
Phil
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Badass I have a question. If the car in your avatar is sold and you're "anxiously awaiting my new 951", then what car are you putting speakers in?
#11
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Originally Posted by pete944
Badass I have a question. If the car in your avatar is sold and you're "anxiously awaiting my new 951", then what car are you putting speakers in?
#14
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Alpine SPS-460A
These Alpines fit with no modifications?!?! If so, you rock! They can handle 125 watts each! That is plenty of power for a 4x6. I have been waiting for a response on that question forever!
These Alpines fit with no modifications?!?! If so, you rock! They can handle 125 watts each! That is plenty of power for a 4x6. I have been waiting for a response on that question forever!