Need help planning for Autocross & Time Trials
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
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Need help planning for Autocross & Time Trials
Knowing that some of the Rennlisters are avid racers, this would seem like the best place to ask. (Well, that's enough kissing up)
I am preping my 83' 944 NA for the local Time Trials and AutoCross. The local Circuit has the following restrictions.
I already have the car with racing seats (the originals where recked) I am presently installing a Centerforce clutch, right after will adjust the Suspention (but not upgrade it yet) , and do a timing belt change. Where should I go from there.
I am E-class:
Acura Integra Type R*, RSX-S, TL-S, CL-S, CL-S 6spd*; Audi A6 4.2, A8,
TT (180hp), A4 3.0 (220 hp), S8: BMW 3 Series 6cyl, Z3-4cyl, E30 M3*, Mini Cooper S; Chevrolet Impala SS, 63-82 Corvette, Camaro 6cyl; Dodge Neon SRT-4*; Ford Mustang V6, Taurus SHO, Contour SVT, 2002 T-Bird, Focus SVT; Honda 03 Accord-6cyl, Prelude VTEC; Hyundai Tiburon V6, Infiniti I35, Q45; Jaguar XJ8, X-Type; Lexus IS300, GS300, SC400; Lincoln LS V8; Mazda MazdaSpeed Protege Mazda 6(6 cyl), 6-6cyl, Miata 1.8 (all); Mercedes SLK, C280 Coupe, C320; Mitsubishi/Eagle/Dodge Eclipse/Talon Turbos, Eclipse V6, Stealth/3000 NA; Nissan Altima 3.5l, Sentra V-Spec, Maxima 3.5l, 300zx NA (Z32), 300zx all (Z31); Pontiac Firebird V6T, Grand Prix GTP; Porsche 928 (all), 914/6*,! 924 Turbo, 924S, 944 N/A all, Boxter 2.5L, Plymouth Prowler; Saab 9/3 Viggen, 9/5 Aero; Subaru WRX*; Toyota Celica GTS, Celica Al-Trac Turbo, MR2 SC, MR2 (90+ NA), MR Spyder, Supra NA (2nd Gen); Volvo S60 T5, C70; VW Corrado, 1.8t (+170hp)/VR6 (all)
(Porsche with Factory Sport Option get a 5-point handicap)
Cars may be upclassed based on vehicle modifications)
Modifications are penalized each, for example
WEIGHT REDUCTION is +1 point..
TIRES
1) DOT-approved tires with tread wear 80 and below + 5
2) Non-DOT approved tires + 8
3) Wheels and tires extend beyond original
bodywork +2
WEIGHT REDUCTION
1) Replacement seat +1
2) Gutted interior Front/Rear +2/+2
3) Lightweight hood +1
4) Lightweight Fenders +1
5) Bumpers/Bumper supports +2
6) Lexan/Plexiglass +2
ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN
1) Engine swap Move car to donor's class or
+7, whichever is greater
2) Increased displacement +5
3) Non-OEM forced induction +10
[b]4) Air intake system +2
5) Cat-back exhaust +3
6) Aftermarket Header +3
7) Performance chip for Naturally Aspirated
engine +3
8) Performance chip for Turbo engine +6
(cannot be selected with Performance Chip
for NA engine)
9) Boost controller +5
10) Programmable electronics and fuel
injection systems +2 NA +5 Turbo
11) Replacement pulleys +1
12) Other internal engine modifications +4
13) Changed OEM intercooler/downpipe +3
14) Changed OEM turbo +5
15) Ring and pinion change +2
16) Add limited slip +3
17) Change limited slip +2
SUSPENSION/BRAKES
1) Performance shocks +1
2) Adjustable shocks +4 (Cannot be selected
with Performance shocks)
3) Performance/Lowering Springs +2
4) Threaded Adjustable Spring Perches and
springs +3 (Cannot be selected with
Performance/Lowering Springs)
5) Full coilover suspension +9 (cannot be
selected with other spring/shock
combinations)
6) Changed/Added anti-sway bars +2
7) Camber plates/bolts/arms +2
8) Relocated suspension mount points +8
9) Big Brake Kit(includes
calipers/rotors/) +3
0-14 No Upclass,
15-29 Up 1 Class,
30-44 Up 2 Classes,
45-59 Up 3 Classes,
60-74 Up 4 Classes
As for time behind the wheel, my father is a vet circuit racer and has begun giving me classes in his modified 240 sx. As soon as the car is running again, I begin track practices with mine.
I am preping my 83' 944 NA for the local Time Trials and AutoCross. The local Circuit has the following restrictions.
I already have the car with racing seats (the originals where recked) I am presently installing a Centerforce clutch, right after will adjust the Suspention (but not upgrade it yet) , and do a timing belt change. Where should I go from there.
I am E-class:
Acura Integra Type R*, RSX-S, TL-S, CL-S, CL-S 6spd*; Audi A6 4.2, A8,
TT (180hp), A4 3.0 (220 hp), S8: BMW 3 Series 6cyl, Z3-4cyl, E30 M3*, Mini Cooper S; Chevrolet Impala SS, 63-82 Corvette, Camaro 6cyl; Dodge Neon SRT-4*; Ford Mustang V6, Taurus SHO, Contour SVT, 2002 T-Bird, Focus SVT; Honda 03 Accord-6cyl, Prelude VTEC; Hyundai Tiburon V6, Infiniti I35, Q45; Jaguar XJ8, X-Type; Lexus IS300, GS300, SC400; Lincoln LS V8; Mazda MazdaSpeed Protege Mazda 6(6 cyl), 6-6cyl, Miata 1.8 (all); Mercedes SLK, C280 Coupe, C320; Mitsubishi/Eagle/Dodge Eclipse/Talon Turbos, Eclipse V6, Stealth/3000 NA; Nissan Altima 3.5l, Sentra V-Spec, Maxima 3.5l, 300zx NA (Z32), 300zx all (Z31); Pontiac Firebird V6T, Grand Prix GTP; Porsche 928 (all), 914/6*,! 924 Turbo, 924S, 944 N/A all, Boxter 2.5L, Plymouth Prowler; Saab 9/3 Viggen, 9/5 Aero; Subaru WRX*; Toyota Celica GTS, Celica Al-Trac Turbo, MR2 SC, MR2 (90+ NA), MR Spyder, Supra NA (2nd Gen); Volvo S60 T5, C70; VW Corrado, 1.8t (+170hp)/VR6 (all)
(Porsche with Factory Sport Option get a 5-point handicap)
Cars may be upclassed based on vehicle modifications)
Modifications are penalized each, for example
WEIGHT REDUCTION is +1 point..
TIRES
1) DOT-approved tires with tread wear 80 and below + 5
2) Non-DOT approved tires + 8
3) Wheels and tires extend beyond original
bodywork +2
WEIGHT REDUCTION
1) Replacement seat +1
2) Gutted interior Front/Rear +2/+2
3) Lightweight hood +1
4) Lightweight Fenders +1
5) Bumpers/Bumper supports +2
6) Lexan/Plexiglass +2
ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN
1) Engine swap Move car to donor's class or
+7, whichever is greater
2) Increased displacement +5
3) Non-OEM forced induction +10
[b]4) Air intake system +2
5) Cat-back exhaust +3
6) Aftermarket Header +3
7) Performance chip for Naturally Aspirated
engine +3
8) Performance chip for Turbo engine +6
(cannot be selected with Performance Chip
for NA engine)
9) Boost controller +5
10) Programmable electronics and fuel
injection systems +2 NA +5 Turbo
11) Replacement pulleys +1
12) Other internal engine modifications +4
13) Changed OEM intercooler/downpipe +3
14) Changed OEM turbo +5
15) Ring and pinion change +2
16) Add limited slip +3
17) Change limited slip +2
SUSPENSION/BRAKES
1) Performance shocks +1
2) Adjustable shocks +4 (Cannot be selected
with Performance shocks)
3) Performance/Lowering Springs +2
4) Threaded Adjustable Spring Perches and
springs +3 (Cannot be selected with
Performance/Lowering Springs)
5) Full coilover suspension +9 (cannot be
selected with other spring/shock
combinations)
6) Changed/Added anti-sway bars +2
7) Camber plates/bolts/arms +2
8) Relocated suspension mount points +8
9) Big Brake Kit(includes
calipers/rotors/) +3
0-14 No Upclass,
15-29 Up 1 Class,
30-44 Up 2 Classes,
45-59 Up 3 Classes,
60-74 Up 4 Classes
As for time behind the wheel, my father is a vet circuit racer and has begun giving me classes in his modified 240 sx. As soon as the car is running again, I begin track practices with mine.
#2
Race Director
Hmm see my other post for details, but if you have replacement seats must take 1 point for those.
Then you would be 15pts with my "suspension" upgrade path.
So to comply and get you back under points. don't do the paragon coilovers. Do instead 250lbs springs and 30 mm tbars and weltmeister front sway bar and a 944 turbo rear bar or may 968 M030. This will bring you back to 14 points and probablyyour best chance of success. The trick is that 250's with 30 mm torsion bars can cause lots of oversteer. carefull aligmentent and sway bar adjustment is critical, but get it right and this is probably about as fast as you can go with 14 points.
Oh.. if you add a roll bar and I am certain you can pull the rear seat back. Upper part only. Reason is that it interferes with the roll bar. Do leave all the carpet so you don't get tagged with points for gutting the rear of the car.
Oh...
It goes with out saying that the MOST IMPORTANT MOD is DRIVER SKILL!
Then you would be 15pts with my "suspension" upgrade path.
So to comply and get you back under points. don't do the paragon coilovers. Do instead 250lbs springs and 30 mm tbars and weltmeister front sway bar and a 944 turbo rear bar or may 968 M030. This will bring you back to 14 points and probablyyour best chance of success. The trick is that 250's with 30 mm torsion bars can cause lots of oversteer. carefull aligmentent and sway bar adjustment is critical, but get it right and this is probably about as fast as you can go with 14 points.
Oh.. if you add a roll bar and I am certain you can pull the rear seat back. Upper part only. Reason is that it interferes with the roll bar. Do leave all the carpet so you don't get tagged with points for gutting the rear of the car.
Oh...
It goes with out saying that the MOST IMPORTANT MOD is DRIVER SKILL!
#3
Race Director
Just as a side note, per your rules a 944-spec car would run 1 class up with 24 points or so.
Some may take a couple more pts for things other may take 1 or 2 less.
Some may take a couple more pts for things other may take 1 or 2 less.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Seats +1
DOT competition tires +5
Brake upgrade +3
Swaybars +2
Spring +2
Shocks +1
That's 14 points and you're not bumped a class. Tires, brakes, stiffer suspension and go!
Driver skill is most important. Until you're a "fly and drive" guy piloting a crew-prepped Cup car like a family station wagon and still putting down low times.
DOT competition tires +5
Brake upgrade +3
Swaybars +2
Spring +2
Shocks +1
That's 14 points and you're not bumped a class. Tires, brakes, stiffer suspension and go!
Driver skill is most important. Until you're a "fly and drive" guy piloting a crew-prepped Cup car like a family station wagon and still putting down low times.
#5
Race Director
944's don't need brake upgrades. Not worthwile place to spend points. Unfortuality the little adjuster **** on the Koni's makes them 4pts vs just 1pt. Else you could add camberplates and front adjustable ride height springs).
#6
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by M758
944's don't need brake upgrades. Not worthwile place to spend points.
#7
Race Director
Yep...
... You may need to add ducts, but inspite of how wimpy they look you don't they work fine. Part of the reason is that the car does not have enough HP to go really fast and can corner very well so. You are not doing that much slowing down. You do want good pads to be sure, but 951 brakes are overkill for stock powered NA's. Remember also that an 87 NA is like 2800 lbs vs 3400 or 3600 from your 928.
... You may need to add ducts, but inspite of how wimpy they look you don't they work fine. Part of the reason is that the car does not have enough HP to go really fast and can corner very well so. You are not doing that much slowing down. You do want good pads to be sure, but 951 brakes are overkill for stock powered NA's. Remember also that an 87 NA is like 2800 lbs vs 3400 or 3600 from your 928.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Used to have it in the sig, but the pictured 928 is a touch under 3100lbs.
The local track (BIR) has a front straight of 3/4 mile (NHRA drag strip) into a banked turn. If set up well you can have the throttle down for a full mile.
Wanted to know more form Dalilean on how the car would be used. An autoX set-up is very different from a long road course set-up.
The local track (BIR) has a front straight of 3/4 mile (NHRA drag strip) into a banked turn. If set up well you can have the throttle down for a full mile.
Wanted to know more form Dalilean on how the car would be used. An autoX set-up is very different from a long road course set-up.
#9
Instructor
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
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Puerto Rico has a very big "small circuit" and drag croud. Right now we have 2 small circuit courses (Salinas to open up again soon and Ponce) where they run Solo 1. These are time trials evens sendig out the cars one at a time with a minute or so between them. Then there is "Solo Cross". This is Time trials in a wide cart track in Palo Seco. It's like a half way point between Solo 1 and Autocross. Unfortunately there is no autocross here (although rumours of one forming are starting to surface.)
The Idea is to have a car that would run a half way point between autocross and circuit.
M758, as to being outclassed, most large engine cars do not have enough straights to develop enough speed in these tracks. Hell, in the Solocross circuit, these guys tried to power their way and ended up looking like drift cars.
Actually I brought this very point up with the organizer. He just looked at me and laughed. I was later told that he used to have a 951 before getting a 350zx (twin turbo modified) and considers the entire 944 series to be the best handling cars ever built.(and this guy organizes races for a living)
The Idea is to have a car that would run a half way point between autocross and circuit.
M758, as to being outclassed, most large engine cars do not have enough straights to develop enough speed in these tracks. Hell, in the Solocross circuit, these guys tried to power their way and ended up looking like drift cars.
Actually I brought this very point up with the organizer. He just looked at me and laughed. I was later told that he used to have a 951 before getting a 350zx (twin turbo modified) and considers the entire 944 series to be the best handling cars ever built.(and this guy organizes races for a living)
#10
Nordschleife Master
In that case go for handling over brakes and a bit of power. Maybe this:
Seats +1
DOT competition tires +5
Swaybars +2
Adjustable spring perches+2
Shocks +1
Air intake +2
Seats +1
DOT competition tires +5
Swaybars +2
Adjustable spring perches+2
Shocks +1
Air intake +2
#11
Race Director
I wouldn't do the air intake unless you also modify the exhaust, but then you'll probably be over 15 points and upclassed.
If you can figure a way to get LSD in your car (+3) that should help on a tight course.
-Z.
If you can figure a way to get LSD in your car (+3) that should help on a tight course.
-Z.