Need help with rust repair
09-29-2004, 08:47 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Need help with rust repair
I decided to fix a "small" bit fo "surface" rust on the trunk lip ... Once I'd cut through the lifted paint, here's what I found:
The pink stuffi nthe middle looks like Bondo. The har dblack stuff around it is what intrigues me. It's resistant to a Dremel wire wheel, but comes off with a grinding bit. It seems too hard to be rust, but it's black - is it likely to be the result of "rust converter"
What hould I do ? Strip all the black stuff off and take it back to bare metal, or assume that if it's tougher than a wire wheel, it's good enough to stay and prime over it ?
Is there a diference between Bondo and two-part epoxy ? Can I fill the hole with 2 part epoxy instead of body filler ?
The pink stuffi nthe middle looks like Bondo. The har dblack stuff around it is what intrigues me. It's resistant to a Dremel wire wheel, but comes off with a grinding bit. It seems too hard to be rust, but it's black - is it likely to be the result of "rust converter"
What hould I do ? Strip all the black stuff off and take it back to bare metal, or assume that if it's tougher than a wire wheel, it's good enough to stay and prime over it ?
Is there a diference between Bondo and two-part epoxy ? Can I fill the hole with 2 part epoxy instead of body filler ?
09-29-2004, 08:54 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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What everyone is going to tell you is that the best fix is to cut back to unrusted metal and weld in a patch panel. Then treat with a rust inhibitor, use a minimal amount of body filler as necessary and prep for paint.
I think rust converyters do work, I just wouldn't want to trust them if I didn't have to. I'd cut out the rust wherever possible. But if you have to for other considerations (cost, etc) then make sure all visible rust has been removed to the the maximum extent possible, use the rust converter such as POR-15 and then use body filler/paint prep.
I think rust converyters do work, I just wouldn't want to trust them if I didn't have to. I'd cut out the rust wherever possible. But if you have to for other considerations (cost, etc) then make sure all visible rust has been removed to the the maximum extent possible, use the rust converter such as POR-15 and then use body filler/paint prep.
09-29-2004, 09:19 PM
#3
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Yep. Kill that crap NOW! If the galvanizing has been compromised (which evidently it has) the only way to stop it is to completely remove it - it's like a cancer, if you leave any little bit it WILL be back. Have a body shop (or do it yourself if you're good) cut that crap out and weld in a patch, then COMPLETELY encapsulate it with inhibitor once it is ground smooth.