Zero10

Sounds rather like the little set screw on the rotor inside the distributor cap backed out. It's a bit of a long shot, but it's pretty easy to check.

StupEd05

lol, 3 people in a row said "long shot" lol. Newayz, I have checked the screw on the rotor. Checked to make sure the temp sensor was atleast plugged in. Anyway to attack it with my multi-meter? As for the carb cleaner, it smoothed out the very first time I squirted it in the air intake, but no matter how much I sprayed in it still stumbled and died. I have followed all the vacuum lines and dont see any obvious cuts or lines not plugged in, and I am thinking it would have to be a huge vacuum leak to stop it from starting completely. Right?

Dave951M

Not really. I'm still thinking vacuum leak somewhere.

StupEd05

Alright, well tomorow I will hopefully find out if my AFM and DME are bad or not, and if they check out fine, Im thinking its time to start replacing everything I can afford to. A vacuum line job, coil, intake manifold gasket, fuel lines, FPR (already ordered), dampner, LOTS and LOTS or sensors, and whatever else I can afford. I really dont know what else to check. My dad still thinks its bad gas, but im not sold on that yet. We drained the tank and put in new gas, plus changed the filter. Unless there is a slew of gunk and crap at the bottom of my tank that is contaminating all of it. Anyone else want to chime in here?

Dave951M

If you're going to throw parts at the problem, start with the most likely and cheapest first- namely the vacuum lines. Before you do, look for loose hose clamps on hoses, loose bolts on the intake manifold, in short, make sure everything else is cricket.

theedge

You dont need one...

http://frwilk.com/944dme/

I retracked mine and noticed an improvement.

82-928/89-S2

Hi Aaron,

I would take a good look at that temperature sensor like Kevin is suggesting. Double check to make sure there are no air pockets in the engine that might prevent coolant from making contact with the temperature sensor. This would cause a rich condition once the car was warmed up and might cause some of the problems you’re having. I just recently went through a series of “start and die” problems with my S2 that was due to a bad temperature sensor.

StupEd05

Hmm... If there is no coolant coming in contact with the temp sensor will it cause a no start situation, or just a "start and die"? Cause mine is a "starts 5% of the time then dies" situation. I like your idea though, when the radiator hose burst on me, I put the new one on and filled it up with coolant, and didnt really bleed the system. 20 minutes of driving later and it dies on me, and a couple days ago when it miraculously started, it got me into town, and 20 minutes of driving later it dies, let it cool down for 15 minutes and i get it started again, then it dies 4 minutes later and wont start up for another 3 days!

theedge - I need the oscilliscope for checking ignition pulse, not retracking the AFM.

Dave951M - I have went around and tightened all hose clamps and tightened down the air intake.

theedge

Oh ya my bad, had like 30 things on my mind yesterday...

Rock

Did you check those 2 vaccum lines under the intake manifold that i told you about... those caused this very problem on mine

Rock

This isnt a long shot, im almost positive that this is a vaccum problem.

StupEd05

Did you mention that on my other thread? The only large sized vacuum hose I see under there is one that goes from the intake boot, to a "T" then all the way back. If my DME and AFM check out good on Scott's car I think I am going to pull the intake manifold and do all the vacuum lines. IIRC, isnt there a conversion to the newer vacuum system, which gets rid of the venturi tube? I want to do that

So you had a very similar situation? The whole starts 5% of the time and sounds good for a bit and dies? I thought I was all alone on this one...

Rock

Yup yup. Sometimes it wouldnt even start though. Usually it wouldnt start, then if it did it would struggle its *** off to stay on, the rpms would bounce like hell anywhere below 900 and if i gave it gas it died. Here was the problem

The first tube is the Air/Oil Seperator (goes from the intake boot to that little circle thing,it had a huge hole in it then it broke) which was the main reason why it didnt start. The second tube was from the Idle control thing and would also cause it to run crappy. Both are under the intake manifold.

Rock

Id get that manifold off tonight, it doesnt take that long. I can do it in about 15 minutes now. Pretty much all you do is take off the 8 allen bolts (with a 6mm allen wrench?) Take the brace bolt off, standing from the drivers side fender, its at the bottom of the manifold. Feel around for it. Then after that it will lift off, but you gotta detach the rest of the lines and stuff connected to it to get it completely off.

StupEd05

Rock, you are a god! I will pull the manifold off tonight and give it a check. One question, if the hose from the oil seperator was bad, would it let oil into the cylinders by any chance? I swear I smell/see oil on my plugs, maybe not though... Did your backfire when dying too? Thanx a million!