Granite 944

I’m rebuilding an extra set of the steel/early control arms for my ’83 car. I’ve got old bushings off, ball joints drilled off (without any damage to holes). I have a few observations and questions for those of you that have done this before.

The mounting bolts for the ball joints are a 7 X 20 MM (10.9 grade), and they indeed fit in the holes kinda loosely. Torque for the nuts on these is 10-12 ft lbs. Do I need to be concerned about the balljoints moving around at the mount points in the control arm at anytime after installing them, or should I look to find (or ream to fit) an interference fit bolt/rivet to put back in these holes? It just doesn’t give me a warm and fuzzy feeling using these bolts and nuts, even though I would locktite the threads in. What do ya think? I’m sure a lot of people have just been using the bolts/nuts. Anyone have problems/issues concerning this, or am I concerned about nothing? I can’t imagine a whole lot of movement if they did come slightly loose, but…….?

I’m installing new OEM/rubber rear bushings on these also. I was planning on using a bar clamp to “press the bushings” in the hole, and align the flat side of bushings parallel with the top of arm. Sound right? The control arm will rotate in the bushing sleeve to the correct position ok without preloading or twisting bushing after the saddle clamp is installed, if I did have it off a little wouldn’t it? OEM bushings have the steel inner sleeve.

Thanks! I’ve never played with sort of stuff before.

Kevin Baker

When you tighten them down they will "pinch" in, also with three of them, they shouldn't move. As for the bushing, get it as close to parallel as possible, when you bolt the control arm back up and load the suspension, they will move slightly, but they will be TIGHT, so you don't want to have to try to adjust them much.

M758

Ken,
I have seen a number of high mileage early control arms with cracks where the join the engine cross member. Given that these parts can be cheaply aquired from paragon products I would suggest compeletly new arms rather than messing with old ones. I am pretty certain you can get NEW set of arms from paragon for about 50-60. Cheap insurance and in my case I have spare set in my parts box in the truck of my race car just incase my new one develop a probelm.

Skip

Just echoing... Don't worry about the ball joint bolts not positively "retaining" the ball joint to the arm. It'll hold fine and should not throw off your alignment (if that was a worry). One thing to remember once you take the arm off, it's good practice to have the car realigned. With the bolts, since 7mm bolts are usually not available locally, I just use 5/16" bolts and bore out all the holes (if you do this, start at one end, then do the other end, then the middle - placing bolts in each hole as you drill so they are perfectly done and tight as possible).

There's really no perfect way to get the rear OE mounts on. Just try to get them as equal (left-to-right) as possible. They will preload - it's very unlikely that the metal-to-metal bind will slip any once installed - they are not supposed to to that, the rubber is the rotation point. I recommend folks ditch the OE metal/rubber rear mounts and go for the Weltmeister urethene bushings. NOT just because we sell them - they really are much easier to install, will not preload, and a bit stiffer (not too stiff).

M758

Skip, I agree completly. Rear Welts are good thing. MUCH MUCH easier to install (just slip on) and unlike the fronts the rears stand up to racing loads and are just fine on the street.

Skip

Thanks for the segway...

Right, for racing, the front red Weltmeisters are not so good - for street, they are fine. For racing, we recommend Delrin. Joe, you know the Delrin, right

M758

Del what?


Yep I concur with Skip.

front reds not so good for the track. I have torn-up mulitple sets. Delrin is bomb!

Granite 944

Thanks guys! I've already have the the OEM bushings here, and ready to go on. So, I will just go with these. The other car, I may use the Welts on it. Thanks for the heads up on the weak point/cracking area. They both looked just fine in those areas, so I decided to go with them. Though I will take an even closer look now!

Keeping the alignment was my real concern. I got the bolts/nuts with the balljoints, so I will just use them now that I've heard some feedback on it. (Thanks!). I will be taking it down for an alignment after parts are installed.

"There's really no perfect way to get the rear OE mounts on. Just try to get them as equal (left-to-right) as possible. They will preload - it's very unlikely that the metal-to-metal bind will slip any once installed - they are not supposed to to that, the rubber is the rotation point."

Thanks, I kinda though this......I'll just do the best I can with it.

Thanks again all!