Question on cone air filtering.
09-10-2004, 12:25 PM
#31
Manning, I have the front mount (by the nose panel) but I think thats all I left in there. I'll take the bottom of the box off your hands if you want to get rid of it. Let me know what you want for it and all. I dont' have the bolts to mount it, so let me know if you have all that hardware too. Just let me know. I'd rather buy from a rennlister if you're looking to sell it anyways.
Hey, also - did you do the manual steering conversion to your car or was it a manual steering car to start with? I'm interested in doing that and want to know what if takes.
Thanks
Ryan
Hey, also - did you do the manual steering conversion to your car or was it a manual steering car to start with? I'm interested in doing that and want to know what if takes.
Thanks
Ryan
09-10-2004, 12:42 PM
#32
I don't want anything for it. Maybe pay shipping? PM your address.
I think I have the bolts to mount the box bottom to the AFM. There isn't anything special about the ones that mount the bracket to the shock tower or the brackets to the box, but I'll see what I have. I have the box bottom and the rear bracket but nothing else. No top or snorkel. Well, I do have the top, but I cut the peak off of it to experiment with it as an open element system like Skip did.
Oh, and I converted my car to manual steering (and sunroof and windows). You will need the rack, complete tie rods and intermediate shaft (between steering column and rack) as well as the right rack mount bushing and boot. Honestly, I would but the intermediate shaft new ($300.00) if you can find one since anything you find used will likely be pretty close to worn out.
I think I have the bolts to mount the box bottom to the AFM. There isn't anything special about the ones that mount the bracket to the shock tower or the brackets to the box, but I'll see what I have. I have the box bottom and the rear bracket but nothing else. No top or snorkel. Well, I do have the top, but I cut the peak off of it to experiment with it as an open element system like Skip did.
Oh, and I converted my car to manual steering (and sunroof and windows). You will need the rack, complete tie rods and intermediate shaft (between steering column and rack) as well as the right rack mount bushing and boot. Honestly, I would but the intermediate shaft new ($300.00) if you can find one since anything you find used will likely be pretty close to worn out.
03-27-2005, 01:13 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Tony K
Two times I drove my 83 through water deep enough to break the blades off of the electric fans (1 flood, 1 rally). You're gonna have to drive through water deep enough to submerge the intake inside of the front fender to get what you are talking about. Seriously, how much water do you think the balance shaft can cary up to that little hose, that won't get absorbed by the air filter? Maybe it will take in more water with the timing belt covers broken or rubber plugs missing? What you are describing sounds like a problem that people who mickey-mouse their cars have.
For all the miles and all the extreme conditions I have put 944s through, the strange problems some people whose cars always seem to be broken have that I have never encountered never cease to amaze me. And 95% of the time I find out later that there is something else missing, broken, or (most often) modified on their car that contributed to the cause.
Some of the things I have read about people doing to their cars on here make me cringe, like cutting a hole in the hood to get fresh air for a garbage air filter. It's funny how so many high school and college kids seem to think that for a few bucks they can outdo years of development by some of the world's best engineers.
Here's a novel thought about cone air filters: Perhaps, just maybe, the engineers at Porsche calculated the maximum volume of air that the engine could possibly draw, taking into account things like horsepower and RPMs, vacuum, air density, inner diameter and length of the intake components (like the throttle body), etc., and then examined the resistance to air flow of a particular type of paper element, and then maybe calculated how large that element might have to be to not (or at least minimally) hamper the air flow. Maybe (I'm just guessing), then they thought of finding a place in the engine compartment that was as far as possible from the exhaust manifold, and perhaps near the front of the engine compartment where the exterior would be getting hit by the most cool air. Maybe a certain kind of plastic was chosen because of its durability, resistance to heat and elements, and for its insulating properties (both noise and heat), and maybe the choice of putting the intake hole inside the fender was because of all of the cool, fresh air being circulated inside with great force. I don't know. I honestly have no idea, but looking at the size of the air filter, the materials, the placement of the components, etc., I might guess that they probably had a GOOD reason for that, and probably knew what they were doing. Cone air filters might work great on a Saturn, but if Porsche could have squeezed another ounce of power without compromising reliability, they would have. This is a Porsche, not a Chevy Cavalier or Honda Civic.
my .02 and then some...
For all the miles and all the extreme conditions I have put 944s through, the strange problems some people whose cars always seem to be broken have that I have never encountered never cease to amaze me. And 95% of the time I find out later that there is something else missing, broken, or (most often) modified on their car that contributed to the cause.
Some of the things I have read about people doing to their cars on here make me cringe, like cutting a hole in the hood to get fresh air for a garbage air filter. It's funny how so many high school and college kids seem to think that for a few bucks they can outdo years of development by some of the world's best engineers.
Here's a novel thought about cone air filters: Perhaps, just maybe, the engineers at Porsche calculated the maximum volume of air that the engine could possibly draw, taking into account things like horsepower and RPMs, vacuum, air density, inner diameter and length of the intake components (like the throttle body), etc., and then examined the resistance to air flow of a particular type of paper element, and then maybe calculated how large that element might have to be to not (or at least minimally) hamper the air flow. Maybe (I'm just guessing), then they thought of finding a place in the engine compartment that was as far as possible from the exhaust manifold, and perhaps near the front of the engine compartment where the exterior would be getting hit by the most cool air. Maybe a certain kind of plastic was chosen because of its durability, resistance to heat and elements, and for its insulating properties (both noise and heat), and maybe the choice of putting the intake hole inside the fender was because of all of the cool, fresh air being circulated inside with great force. I don't know. I honestly have no idea, but looking at the size of the air filter, the materials, the placement of the components, etc., I might guess that they probably had a GOOD reason for that, and probably knew what they were doing. Cone air filters might work great on a Saturn, but if Porsche could have squeezed another ounce of power without compromising reliability, they would have. This is a Porsche, not a Chevy Cavalier or Honda Civic.
my .02 and then some...
And being harsh, too!
03-27-2005, 02:54 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
When I did my 968 swap, I ended up running the K/N filter just above the radiator and just below the front nose panel. As the cone is above the radoator - at speed, it's getting ambient air, though the airflow is probably a bit turbulent. Not a whole lot of choice on this as the 968 engine doesn't leave a whole lot of options other than just attaching the cone to the AFM.
