Polishing intake manifold
#1
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Polishing intake manifold
Ok, so I've been working on the loose intake manifold, trying to polish it up. I've decided that I'm not as concerned about the body of the manifold (mainly due to PITA factors), but I would at least like to get the runners smooth.
I wire-brushed the whole thing and wet-sanded it with progressively smoother sandpaper. I noticed that I still had a lot of pitting in the runners, and after a quick polishing session, the pits look pretty bad.
So, since I didn't bother to before I started this project, does anyone have any tips? I suppose I can just keep sanding the runners for a while and maybe it'll finally work its way out. Unfortunately, I didn't wear gloves so I actually sanded a few fingers to the bleeding point.
Beyond that, the searches I did seem to lead me to believe that I just need to be patient and keep working on it. Which is fine, 'cause this isn't a time-sensitive project.
Thanks,
BB.
I wire-brushed the whole thing and wet-sanded it with progressively smoother sandpaper. I noticed that I still had a lot of pitting in the runners, and after a quick polishing session, the pits look pretty bad.
So, since I didn't bother to before I started this project, does anyone have any tips? I suppose I can just keep sanding the runners for a while and maybe it'll finally work its way out. Unfortunately, I didn't wear gloves so I actually sanded a few fingers to the bleeding point.
Beyond that, the searches I did seem to lead me to believe that I just need to be patient and keep working on it. Which is fine, 'cause this isn't a time-sensitive project.
Thanks,
BB.
Last edited by BeerBurner; 02-07-2023 at 09:54 PM.
#4
Campeck Rulez
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WOW!!!! you got it all shiny!!!
you need to do it with ROUGH grit...like 100 or so. then when all the pits are gone do what you've been doing. hmm..maybe I should have used water.
<choked on aluminum dust the whole time.
you need to do it with ROUGH grit...like 100 or so. then when all the pits are gone do what you've been doing. hmm..maybe I should have used water.
<choked on aluminum dust the whole time.
#5
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I was actually using 60 and 100 grit for a bit. I guess I didn't use them long enough. But ok, I'll get back to that! In a few days, after my hand heals... Not that you can really see, but I was bleeding out of one of the fingers...
BB.
BB.
Last edited by BeerBurner; 02-07-2023 at 09:54 PM.
#7
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Yeah... once I started bleeding I put on some latex gloves, which I should have done from the get-go. But since I was using some 1,000 grit sandpaper, my hands are actually rather smooth! Save for the soon-to-be-crusty fingertips...
BB.
BB.
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#9
Hey Man
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Use those small rotary 3M pads in coarse, then fine. I'm talking about the ones about 1.5" dia. that quick thread onto an arbor chucked up in a drill(Home Depot). They took all the casting pits down on some phone dials I'm polishing in no time. After that it's all polishing with sisal/cotton buff pads and rouge. You will never get a mirror finish until the pits are gone. Final pass with Mothers, SimiChrome, or Flitz metal polish. You can shave in the finished product.
#10
I removed most of the texture with one of those craftsman detail sanders with the little triangular heads. used the coars, then med, and then fine grits. It was able to get into most of the tight spots and did the rest by hand. From there I wet sanded. Put the manifold in the sink on top of an old towel to help hold it in place. 320 grit to 400 grit to 600 grit. After that i used mothers alum. polish and scotch brite pads. Came out great !!
#13
Race Director
Originally Posted by BeerBurner
I was actually using 60 and 100 grit for a bit. I guess I didn't use them long enough. But ok, I'll get back to that! In a few days, after my hand heals... Not that you can really see, but I was bleeding out of one of the fingers...
BB.
BB.
You have been spanking your monkey too hard, lay off it. (951 inside joke)