You can't oversimplify it as a design flaw. That part is 20 years old and has had countless cycles applied to it. Come on, things wear out. No one was hurt. Move on.

 

I hate to tell you this Harry, but there's this thing called a "rev-limiter" that most modern cars have built into them
I sure can't explain why it shut itself off though
Tifo's got the right idea with the "worn out, 20 year old part" comment, it's not like the pedal falling out is a common problem, even after 20 years of use.

 

ok i didnt know it would have a rev limiter on it.. but then again if it did, usually the limiter would be the redline, so it would have stopped it from going past if it did.. which is why i assumed it did not.

on the 912, if you go past the redline on it, either the valves will float and hit a piston and go boom or the crank will go... either way youre taking seriously screwed. redline is 6k on the 912.. if you go to 7 usually it will be the crank cause a stock crank wont hold up a 7k. (that is unless you have an engine built to the correct tollerences to redline at 7.. which means you have a scat ultra light crank, which costs 2k. usually if you have that you also have a norris 356s cam or better, dual valve springs, and a very bitchin set up that will make at least 130 hp.
and if youve spent the money to go that far, you will most likely have a pertronix rev limiting rotor installed.

 

Gee, you sound like someone who works in a product liability department.

 

Sounds like a lot of work, but it can save your motor. NAs redline @ 6500 and the stock limit is set at 6700, most chips bump it to around 7000.

 

how can a chip bump up a red line?

a chip can give more hp.. but it wont save the internals from reaching their tolerences and limits and stop them from going boom.

 

It doesn't bump the redline it bumps up the limiter, the engine is just a little bit closer to blowing up...

 

Redline in modern motors isn't the max the motor can handle...

I think its more the max the manufacturer feels comfortable with based on their testing.

 

actually in modern times i think it has more to do with keeping the car in the correct usable power band that the engine is tuned for. as is - our cars aren't tuned i.e. don't have the camshaft for higher rpm operations. different grind cams and whatnot would help there, as would the chip, THEN a raise in the redline would work. so a timing bump/change would cause the need for a higher redline rpm. the cars that are mechanically limited (like the miata) are not necessarily producing their best power when you're revving the **** out of them. the manufacturers redline(in stock form) is most likely there for a very good reason. saving wear and tear and keeping the car in the usable power band are both great reasons to have lower rev limits.

blah blah blah

 

max the mfg feel comfortable with what? what the motor can take before you get into trouble? sure redline doesnt always mean youre gonna blow it up if you get there.. but thats the suggested highest you rev the engine, as if you go any farther thats when you get into scary teritory. kinda like a surgeon generals warning. needless to say, still a chip will not make the internals stronger.. will only increase performance.

 

Here's the fix. Have I been gone that long. I won't replace it with plastic again, i'll be looking for a billet one i suppose.

 

What, a billet hinge? That's the part that broke, right?

 

here is the original:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7920898636

and a pic of the one i want. something like it at least.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/eagleday/pecofl.html

 

I'm still wondering if it has something to do with our cars being built in an Audi factory, thay did have that "unintentional acceleration" thing going on back then...

 

$5 vs. $275 ~ or you could buy 55 $5 stock ones and replace the 'faulty design' pedal every three months for the next 13 years!
Better be safe than sorry