Jakerx

ok so i installed my slave cylinder. i opened the bleeder valve and had someone depress the clutch pedal several times...nothing happened at all . no fluid or air cam out. i checked the level of fluid and it's fine. any ideas

caster951

Is it a new slave cylinder? I just did a rebuild of my slave cylinder last week, and had the same problem when I tried to bleed it. I was getting fluid to the cylinder(hard line), but nothing from the bleed screw. I took a paperclip and gently poked into the cylinder where the bleed screw goes in, and bingo, cleared up a blockage of sediment.
Good as new.

If it is a new slave cylinder, I am not sure............ good luck

KLR

This is a notoriously difficult job without a motive powerbleeder and a very easy one with. I hate to say it, but I'd borrow or buy one. I did my first clutch slave bleed with one a couple of months ago and it came out great. I did the brakes, too. It took about 45 minutes.

Cyrus951

Now I'm only 99% sure, but I think I remember Autozone renting those power-bleeders for free (you just have to leave a core charge, which they return to you when you return the bleeder)

Jakerx

wait when you guys say bleed screw you just mean the black rubber cap on it right? not taking the whole screw am i correct?

KuHL 951

So true-I can't emphasize how much easier this tool makes this job especially on a clutch slave. I've used mine at least 7 times now on 3 different cars, there's no substitute.

Dave in Chicago

The black rubber thing is just a dust cover. Then, one opens the bleed screw by turning it with a little wrench (7mm if I recall), just enough to allow the bleeding of the fluid (just like brake bleed screws).

Two things:

I recommend you disconnect the negative terminal at the battery (easy and will keep you from finding a VERY hot starter lead near the slave with you wrench).

Do not take the screw TOO far out or you will suck air in (big drag).

Hope this helps.

PorscheDoc

Yes, take a 20 oz bottle, drill a hole in the top and shove a piece of hose in it, connect the hose to the metal nipple, and then crack the metal nipple open with a 7mm wrench, and the fluid should flow into your bottle. Also punch a small air hole so air can escape the bottle. Otherwise you can just take the cap off the bottle and stick the hose in the bottle, but then you take the chance of spilling the bottle. The black cap is just a dust cover as said before.

Jakerx

hey guys, i'm the biggest dumbass in the world. once i set up my power bleeder and opened up the bleed screw i was able to bleed the thing just fine. thanks for all the help!

Dilberto

Bleed the master for the slave- and you wont have problems with getting the air out. Its located to the right of the brake booster(looking at car from front). It is located in a funny spot, and you will need to remove the vacuum/EGR modulators to access the bleed port. The vacuum modulators are in the spot directly in front of the fuse/relay box...ahead of the partitioning wall. Make sure the brake fluid cap is removed, the car rear tilted up 10degrees, and the fluid level is full- with the float cup removed. Have an assistant ready to depress the pedal on three commands:

1)Push- depress and hold once
2)Pump-pump pedal (whatever amount) times
3)Up-release pedal, until further instructed

A lot of confusion can be avoided if your assistant understands these basic commands. If not- you will spend the entire day re-doing the bleed procedure because your assistant releases the pedal, when you commanded him to hold it down, taking air into the system all over again.

Zach