1. When I push on the end of the pivot fork where the slave cylinder will bolt up. There is no resistance. I can push it all the way in and it doesn't seem to move the bearing very much at all. Is this normal? Can I just not push as hard as slave cylinder will, or maybe it doesn't need to move the bearing much.

2. How long are the bolts that attach the torque tube to the bellhousing? I have them mixed up with others I've removed that last few days.

 

Don't worry about the torque tube yet because you have to take the clutch cover off and hook the back of the throw out bearing with you fork as you install it. You will not be able to push the fork in with your finger - I can't and I have been a mason for 20 years.

 

I seated the fork behind the bearing and held it in place as I installed the bellhousing. I then looked through one of the holes in the bellhousing to make sure it stayed in place. Maybe it's backwards. If I'm looking at the back of the engine, the pivot forks are pointing towards me so that they contact the lip of the bearing. If I pull the cup end of the fork near me, the fork end goes back against the pressure plate adn I can then push the cup end till the forks touch the bearing again. It probably has 1-2 inches of travel.

 

It almost sounds like you don't have your pivot bolt through the fork, eh?

 

Hmm. I'd better take a closer look.

 

Well, the pivot bolt is definitely threaded through both side of the fork. If i loosen the screw that tightens down the pivot bolt and thread an 8mm bolt into the end of the pivot bolt, I can move the pivot lever back and forth by turning that end bolt and vice versa, if I move the pivot fork, the loosened pivot bolt turns with it.If I tighten the retaining screw back down, the fork will still pivot back and forth, but not turn the pivot bolt.

 

I talked to a porsche tech and he said there would be 2-3 inches of travel in the cup end of the fork. He said that at the end of the travel, when the fork is touching the bearing, the slave cylinder exerts enough force to move the bearing out more, more force than i can muster.



Now I''m stuck on get the engine to slide all the way onto the TT shaft. It has about 2 inches to go. Could it not be lining up with the opening in the clutch disk? Maybe I just need to get the proper angle, but I'd think that if it's this far into the bellhousing, then it couldn't do anything but go into the clutch disk. I used a clutch alignment tool on the disk and left it in until the pressure plate and assembly were torqued down, so it should be aligned properly. Any ideas?

 

The question is why you have that much space between the bearing and pressure plate then. Are these all new parts?

The tube you are just going to have to wrestle in from where it attaches to the transmission - it will go in.

 

yup, all new. I compared everything to the old pieces and they all matched up, so I'm not sure about the space.

 

Also, take out the small fork stop screw, directly below the torque tube entrance. You can get more grab on the TOB, and stay closely near the pivot shaft, when lining things up. Two nights ago- I spent almost a full hour, trying to perform this solo. I had a hammer, tools, in both hands, bolts in my mouth... waiting for the right "execution moment" of the clutch job!

Zach