Water Pump Installation Questions
#1
Burning Brakes
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Water Pump Installation Questions
I'm getting parts & tools ready for my water pump replacement. My pump, belts and rollers should be arriving today.
Will I need any sort of adhesive when putting the water pump gasket on?
Will I need any sort of adhesive when putting the water pump gasket on?
#2
Race Car
yes, but oh, i can't remember. i used loctite blue on the bolts.
actually, i don't think i used any adhesive on the gasket itself
actually, i don't think i used any adhesive on the gasket itself
#3
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no adhesive on the gasket, just make sure it's a quality part. If it looks like it is made of grey cardboard, don't use it, get a real one. I would use a little anti-sieze on the bolts, maybe even replace the ones that look particularly rusty. Be careful cleaning the old gasket from the block, you don't want to scratch the surface, I usually use a single edge rasor blade held between my fingers, peel off as much as possible first and then use the blade edge on to scrape off the stuff that is still stuck.
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You can also use scotch brite pads to clean the gasket off the engine (after you get most of it off using the razor blade method). No, you don't need to use any sealant, just use the good porsche gasket. Use anti-seize on the threads of the bolts.
Dal.
Dal.
#5
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Originally Posted by MHT
no adhesive on the gasket, just make sure it's a quality part. If it looks like it is made of grey cardboard, don't use it, get a real one. I would use a little anti-sieze on the bolts, maybe even replace the ones that look particularly rusty.
Also, where do I get anti-sieze?
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The gasket will only go on one way. IIRC, the green goes against the block.
Anti-seize is available at any parts store - usually made by Permatex or 3M. That said, I would not recommend using anti-seize on the WP bolts and nuts. If anything, use a medium loctite. The bolts/nuts are torqued very light - less than 10ftlbs... this is not an application that needs anti-seize. Do not over torque.
Anti-seize is available at any parts store - usually made by Permatex or 3M. That said, I would not recommend using anti-seize on the WP bolts and nuts. If anything, use a medium loctite. The bolts/nuts are torqued very light - less than 10ftlbs... this is not an application that needs anti-seize. Do not over torque.
#7
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Originally Posted by Skip
The gasket will only go on one way. IIRC, the green goes against the block.
Thanks for all the advice guys...wish me luck it's my first time doing this.
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You don't need luck - you need the info at Clark's Garage: http://www.clarks-garage.com/ Follow the link to the "Garage Shop Manual" - there you will find every single excruciating step from start to finish. One minor error in the belt removal process is that you must loosen the balance belt before removing the crankshaft balance belt pulley.
#9
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I got everything out without breaking anything. The water pump is definitely bad. There is a lot of play in the impeller shaft and a grinding sound when I turn it. The area over the power steering pump is wet with coolant or oil, I can't really tell because it's all caked up.
I'm going to spend some time trying to identify the source of the leak and a lot of time cleaning up everything before I attempt to put it all back together again.
I'm going to spend some time trying to identify the source of the leak and a lot of time cleaning up everything before I attempt to put it all back together again.
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I used Ultra Grey RTV to seal it up. Several thousand miles, most of them with buggered up rad and thermostats causing lots of heat and not a single drop from the pump.