Rear Main Seal Replacement
#18
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Jim- I've seen the same thing, and I think it's due to a lower durometer of the rubber in the seal. The brown (red) one doesn't seem to have that problem.
#20
Race Car
Buy another one and return the one you have if you have vendors telling you not to do it. I have not had any problems with my seals but I sure wouldn't want to do that job again for a few bucks I save on a seal. It is hard to remove and you will need a large screwdriver. I pry from the inside lip up by resting the screwdriver on the flat face of the crank. Its going to take some doing but be patient. I have never tried using the flywheel but be careful the seal is exactly in place or the flywheel will easily crush the seal. My suggestion is to tap it in slowly.
#21
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Dallas
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Wow. You all convinced me. A red one is on its way. It was such a pain getting to this part that I want to put in one that will last.
After a bit of research, the color difference has to do with the plastic used in the ring and the red one has eliminated the carbon black in it (hence the color) and resists corrosive chemicals better.
After a bit of research, the color difference has to do with the plastic used in the ring and the red one has eliminated the carbon black in it (hence the color) and resists corrosive chemicals better.
#22
Race Director
There's a little depressed slot on one side of the block that lets you put a screwdriver almost all the way behind the seal. You can then pry it out from there. To press in the new seal, I just made a 4-sided box out of 1x2" framing wood that fits on the seal evenly around four sides then laid a short 2x4" block across it and whacked with hammer. I had to completely yank an engine I spent over 80-hours installing just to install a rear main-seal that the engine-builder left OFF! Don't set things up so you'll have to do this nasty job again... ?(