KenC

(85.5 N/A)
I had been smelling a burning (clutch) for about a week. But clutch seemed fine (it wasn't slipping and felt great) But during that week it went out at a stop light. I couldn't get it in gear, then I forced hard until it eventually clicked into first then second, rode home slow in second. So I started by the simplest thing I knew to do (since I'm not Mech. inclined) by changing the trans. fluid to synthetic. Still have the same problem...Has to be forced into gear and it seems as if something isn't linking up right possibly???? But the smell after a 1 mile test ride was VERY bad. What's going on? Do I need a new clutch (I thought the symptoms of a bad clutch is when it starts to slip and not engage with RPM's- mine isn't doing that) Please help and keep it simple directions. I'm a cop not a Mech. and we aren't known as being the brightest fellows...

pat944

If your clutch is still the rubber centered type and it has failed by throwing a chunk of rubber off and it gets caught between mocing surfaces it will smell pretty bad, mine had the same type of symptoms.

- Couldn't get reverse.
- Hard to get first gear.
- Smelt like burning rubber once you drove the car for a small bit.

It was definately the clutch in my case, had a huge chunk out of it.
If your's is still on the original clutch, or has a rubber centered clutch with a fair bit of use, the odds are it is your clutch that has gone.

Once it starts to go and starts throwing bits of rubber off I found mine went from not really noticable to shocking in about 200 kilometers, the distance from where I bought the car to home.

OTOH, if it's had the clutch changed at some stage, and the spring centre unit was put in, I've got no idea what your problem could be.

So that being said, I'd hope for worst case being the clutch, it's not hugely difficult to do, just time consuming, or expensive, depending on who's doing the work.

KenC

Guess I'll be PM these guys with parts and asking for a clutch. Its the original clutch with 91,000

KenC

Should I get a used clutch, or with all the time I'll be spending installing it - would I be better off buying a new one.

Where's a good source for a new one? (Pelican, Paragon, ect...)

What's a new one cost?

Should I get a 951 clutch or a hi-perf upgrade of some kind, or just replace with my N/A OEM?

pat944

Go with the new clutch.

While you are in there replace the pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing at a minimum, these are what I replaced. As well as getting a new set of bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.

Check out clark's garage, we used only the guide provided there, as well as Rennlist, to do our clutch job, because by Hayne's manual hadn't shown up yet.

Anyone you would be buying a new clutch off should be recommending the spring centered unit that was factory supplied in the 951's, they will last much longer.

Everyone here recommends both Pelican and Paragon, I'm in Australia so I can't really give much advice on that, but I can provide you with the part numbers.

Clutch Plate - 951 116 011 14
Pressure Plate - 944 116 023 01
Throwout/Release Bearing - 931 116 082 04
Spigot/Pilot Bearing - 931 102 111 000
Flywheel Bolts - 900 067 020 02

These are the part numbers that were on the new parts I got for my clutch job.

All up the parts cost me around $1000 Australian, so half that, and add a little bit, to get a really rough kind of cost, cause some stuff that you guys get cheap I pay heaps for, and vice versa.

SoCal Driver

If you wanted to cut costs you could just go with the clutch spring center disc and a throw out bearing. Might get some clutch chatter in about 40,000 miles when the engine gets really hot.

pat944

That's true. With the prices I paid here, $700 for the clutch plate, as well as pulling it apart, I figured paying the $250 to replace the also original pressure plate wasn't really going too much further.

Like I said though, your prices probably vary greatly.

I would still recommend doing the spigot/pilot bearing though, it was only a $9 part here, so while you're in there you might as well do it, epescially if it's also original, I know mine was sounding and feeling pretty ordinary, the last thing you want is to put a new clutch in and weld the torque tube shaft to the flywheel all for the want of a $9 part.

OTOH, you can always get carried away with "while you're in there" work. I'd suggest doing as much as you can on the budget you have while you're in there though.

KenC

Checked with Paragon and they wanted to me to check with those who say they have done it first before ordering the following:
They said that there are 3 types of Clutch plates:
1) Turbo version (Said that they never heard of it being put on an N/A)
2) Then an N/A version that they recommend that is Spring Center Loaded
3) Then the N/A OEM Rubber Centered (Not recommended)
Question: The posts here suggest using the Turbo (951) version or #1...
Do they mean the N/A Spring Loaded version or the actual Turbo version for a Turbo? Anyone installed and know for sure?

Charlie

I put the N/A spring version in my 86. Got it from Paragon.

pat944

I thought the N/A spring centered version and the 951 clutch plate were the same, could be wrong though, I would need to dig out my invoices to check the exact part number of the clutch disc I was sent.

Yeah, my bad. My clutch plate still had a 944 part number but it was the spring centered bit.

Go for the spring centered N/A item.

pat944

The part no for the clutch plate I installed, the spring centered version which went in to my 1982 944 is

944 116 012 11

Sorry bout that wrong part no before. I pulled the 951 no straight out of pet, i thought the spring center was the same unit for 944 and 951

Devia

No, they are different - I had acquired a 951 spring centered clutch plate to put into my car, but the mechanic tossed a rubber center back into it, and handed me back the 951 clutch. Definitely NOT the same, 951 is larger.

KenC

thanks guys!

MichelleJD

I replaced mine at 150K on my n/a. As I was a law student at the time I had absolutely 0 cash to toss at it so I replaced the disc only. It's was still going strong at 275K when the HG went. If I were you, though, I'd at least replace the throw out bearing as well.

Peckster

Oh well, the mchanic-in-a-can was worth a try, your gearbox oil probably needed changing anyway.

It's a big job, better do everything while you're in there.