Bleeding brakes; should I bleed the clutch?
06-21-2004, 12:55 PM
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Bleeding brakes; should I bleed the clutch?
I need to replace the break fluid and brake lines. Should the clutch be bled at the same time?
06-21-2004, 03:19 PM
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Yes, theoretically you do not need to bleed your brakes if changing pads or rotors since you are not opening the brake system to the atmosphere. Changing pads will require you to remove excess fluid from your reservoir, since you will have to squeeze your pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads.
BUT, by the time it is necessary to change your pads or rotors, it has probably been two years since your last bleed/flush, so this is why it is usually done at the same time.
If you are tracking your car, that's a different story. It should be done for every event.
BUT, by the time it is necessary to change your pads or rotors, it has probably been two years since your last bleed/flush, so this is why it is usually done at the same time.
If you are tracking your car, that's a different story. It should be done for every event.
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06-21-2004, 03:46 PM
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Street - Bleed brakes and clutch every year. Sufficient practice, use good fluid, say Ate Blue (my choice). One litre is about perfect, use a one litre pop bottle for catching it and you can meter about a fifth of the volume from each caliper and the clutch. Go a little short, as the bleeder needs to have fluid in the bottom to maintain level in reservoir. Easier to take a bit out with a syringe than to come up short and have to re-bleed the clutch (not fun, don't ask).
Track - Bleed brakes prior to each event, clutch at same time or perhaps every other event.
Power bleeder is the HOT set-up, hands down! The bleeder keeps the reservoir full enough to avoid sucking air into the clutch intake (high on the front side of reservoir). Disconnect negative terminal on battery to avoid locating a hot terminal on the starter and arcing a wrench in your face (kinda scary - again don't ask).
You will be AMAZED at how much sediment will come out of brakes and clutch that have not been bled on a regular basis. Once you are through a couple of flushes, you will never see anything but clean fluid again. This is a very good thing.
If your clutch slave bleed screw doesn't have a rubber cap on it, buy one from Paragon-Products or such. It really does help keep the bleed screw a bit cleaner. Also, if you notice your rubber inspection cap on the clutch housing is missing, buy own of those and put it on as well. Both are $1 - $5 items and Porsche meant for them to be closed or protected from gunk.
Track - Bleed brakes prior to each event, clutch at same time or perhaps every other event.
Power bleeder is the HOT set-up, hands down! The bleeder keeps the reservoir full enough to avoid sucking air into the clutch intake (high on the front side of reservoir). Disconnect negative terminal on battery to avoid locating a hot terminal on the starter and arcing a wrench in your face (kinda scary - again don't ask).
You will be AMAZED at how much sediment will come out of brakes and clutch that have not been bled on a regular basis. Once you are through a couple of flushes, you will never see anything but clean fluid again. This is a very good thing.
If your clutch slave bleed screw doesn't have a rubber cap on it, buy one from Paragon-Products or such. It really does help keep the bleed screw a bit cleaner. Also, if you notice your rubber inspection cap on the clutch housing is missing, buy own of those and put it on as well. Both are $1 - $5 items and Porsche meant for them to be closed or protected from gunk.
06-21-2004, 04:37 PM
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Brake Lines
Paragon has two different SS brake lines; one for fronts with hardline and one for fronts without hardlines. I'm quite sure I need the ones for fronts without hardlines. Can someone confirm this for me?
06-21-2004, 05:12 PM
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Oops, sorry. Didn't see you were in the land of the great Elghund. Not sure who is the best supplier on that side of the ocean.
Just my 2 cents, but the standard rubber (non-hard) lines will work well also. Figure that the originals were designed to last up to about 20 years, replacements will outlive our use of the cars
Just my 2 cents, but the standard rubber (non-hard) lines will work well also. Figure that the originals were designed to last up to about 20 years, replacements will outlive our use of the cars
06-21-2004, 05:22 PM
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I'll be saving a bit of money by buying fom Paragon compared to suppliers in Norway. I couldn't find the rubber hoses on Paragon's site so I figured I'd might as well get SS. (I also need a sunroof seal; Norway $195, paragon $82).
06-21-2004, 08:34 PM
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Single Handed Mechanics Guide to Bleeding the Clutch;
- raise the car
- unscrew the handle from your floor broom.
- use it to wedge between the clutch pedal and the seat back (electric seats are really helpful here for exact adjustment of tension!)
- slip your 7mm box wrench and drain hose on and open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If you're good you can even leave the starter in.
- try not to lose composure when you see the vile crud flowing out.
- tighten bleed screw and go topside.
- pump the pedal a few times and resecure with broom handle.
Repeat until the fluid runs clear. Do it at least every other year. Saves getting stranded by blown slave cylinders.
- raise the car
- unscrew the handle from your floor broom.
- use it to wedge between the clutch pedal and the seat back (electric seats are really helpful here for exact adjustment of tension!)
- slip your 7mm box wrench and drain hose on and open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If you're good you can even leave the starter in.
- try not to lose composure when you see the vile crud flowing out.
- tighten bleed screw and go topside.
- pump the pedal a few times and resecure with broom handle.
Repeat until the fluid runs clear. Do it at least every other year. Saves getting stranded by blown slave cylinders.
06-21-2004, 08:43 PM
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I've had NO problems bleeding the clutch without a power bleeder (just a $6 one-man bleeder kit) as long as the *** end of the car is raised. About 10 to 12 inches of wood blocks under the rear wheels works great and provides enough clearance to get under the car.
Disconnect the battery before you bleed the clutch. The starter positive terminal is right in your wrench's swing as you crack the bleed screw. Ask me how I know.
Disconnect the battery before you bleed the clutch. The starter positive terminal is right in your wrench's swing as you crack the bleed screw. Ask me how I know.