Taking off the intake manifold today...what all type of tools do I need? And what all am I taking off exactly?

 

Funny you should ask, I'm getting ready to do that right now since I wasted last night disabling my parking brake (it was stuck on).

I'll let turbo guys answer though since you may have more junk to disconnect than I do. Why are you pulling it off?

In any case you will need Allen wrenches (6mm I think) and a screw driver. Maybe a 10 and 13 mm wrench and rubber mallet. Not much too it. You'll disconnect the boot to the throttle body and maybe pull the fuel rail off the manifold and flop it out of the way. The oil dipstick tube connects to the plenum, so you'll have to disco that. Then pull the allen head bolts from the flange to head connection and pull the intake off. The will be a couple hoses connected that you'll have to pull off, one to the brake booster and the other to something else (ISV?). Like I said there isn't much to it. The only daunting thing is pulling the fuel rail if you have to cause sometimes an injector will want to stay in the manifold instead of coming out with the rail.

And use a very light torque wrench to reattach the manifold as the bolts don't require much force.

 

Hey;

Not really a big deal. Most serious Turbo Track Dudes carry an extra set of gaskets along. They don't hesitate to whiz that manifold off to check for problems, as a lot of Turbo fussy stuff is under there.

Let's see... from memory... 19mm combo for the fuel hose. 10mm for the rail and dipstick brackets. 6mm Allen for the intake flange bolts. Can't remember the size for the rear stay next to the brake booster, but it seems like it might be 5mm Allen. 17mm combo for the banjo bolt to the vacuum lines. Flat blade screw driver for the vacuum and intake boot hose clamps.

The only really tricky deal is the 13mm head bolt in the front bracket (under the front runner). It is clearly visible, but VERY difficult to get a wrench on.

Make it easy on yourself and slot the bracket on the dipstick so you dont have to remove the bolt. You'll thank for this!!

Not really a big deal! Yell if you get stuck.

 

Like I said before, I don't know about the 951, but on the 924S and I guess some of the NA 944s you have enough hose length to be able to pull the fuel rail without disconnecting the hoses.

John,

Why slot the bracket for the dipstick? I've not run into problems there, what is the issue?

 

6mm allen key, 5mm allen key, 13mm socket or wrench, 14mm for the crusine control nuts, 10mm socket and extension to remove the fuel rail, 10mm wrench for throttle cable/dipstick tube....gear wrench works wonderfully here. screwdrivers for the hose clamps. Thats about it.

 

Manning, i found that slotting the dipstick tube makes installation easier as well. Usually i just left the tube attached to the intake, and then would just crawl underneath and guide it into the pan/block hole, but i think that is a little hard on the orings, etc down there. This way you can have the bolt installed on the manifold, slide the slotted dipstick hole over it, and tighten it down in like 2 turns. Otherwise it is a little tough to try and get your fingers in there to start that bolt. I have pulled that intake more than i care to talk about, and i finally did this when i performed my clutch job. Not a big deal, just one of those little time savers.

 

I must have a different bracket for mine, ran the screw part way out, moved the bracket over the tube.

 

One thing that makes it more challenging on a 951 is that bracket is right next to the brake booster heat shield. It gets a bit fiddly since there's not a lot of room for fingers.

 

I slotted my dipstick bracket as well.

It's best to have allen sockets in 1/4" drive, that allows the most force at a better angle than an allen key.

I pull my manifold leaving the fuel rail attached to it, I do not separate the rail from manifold.

Search in the Turbo forum for a thread a couple months ago with detailed removal directions keeping the rail attached.

Sam

 

I just want to know how you got the (thinking of what I can call it and not get this post deleted) bolt out of the front bracket on that intake. I CAN NOT get it out. I think I'm going to be finger-tightning that thing on when I finally get it off. Any suggestions? Bloodraven - hope its easy for you :P

 

Deep well socket, no extension was the perfect length for me.
It wouldn't be any fun if you could actually see the bolt while removing it.

if your asking for your 951 then ignore me...lol

 

for that front bolt, i use a 1/4 rachet and a wobble. Yes the fuel rail can be left attached, just dont take out the 4 10mm bolts. I like to just undo those 4 bolts, it takes an extra minute and then get the whole intake out of the engine compartment. I tried to prop it up once, but after it fell on me about 3 times, i said screw that

 

Quick question here. I'll have a go at that soon in order to give the idle control valve a good clean. Should the manifold gaskets be replaced as well?

 

i would always replace them

 

Might as well, they are all of 1.50 each