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Cam chain tensioner pad luck plus a question on fuel lines

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Old 06-14-2004, 08:59 AM
  #16  
Big E
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Originally posted by superman90
Can you just replace the pad without removing the cam chain? and if so is there a write-up on it?

Thanks,

Evan
Yup, go to www.clarks-garage.com and to the 16V cam tensioner thing. There's a link to another page from there. Very straightforward, good for peace of mind.

Taking the fuel lines off makes for a lot less wrestling, that's for sure. I did the pad at the same time as the lines, so that was a no-brainer.
Old 06-14-2004, 09:00 AM
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Originally posted by superman90
Can you just replace the pad without removing the cam chain? and if so is there a write-up on it?

Thanks,

Evan
Definately! Once you loosen the assembly it slips out without affecting the chain at all. Once you get it out though you have to keep it under tension because the new pad is thicker so it won't fit between the chains quite as easily. A small allen wrench stuck inside of one of the holes does the trick. The once it's in you pop out the allen wrench and it's ready to be put back together again!

In any case I used the following link for instruction:
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm

Big E - just out of curiosity, how did you take off those fuel lines??? They seemed very brittle and easy to break so I didn't want to try and push them at all.
Old 06-14-2004, 09:34 AM
  #18  
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Hmm, well, one of them attaches to the damper (or maybe regulator, I don't remember) via a hose clamp, so just loosen the clamp and jimmy the line off with a screwdriver or such. The other attaches via a compression fitting, so there's two nuts, 17mm and 19mm I think. Hold the one closer to the fuel line and loosen the other one, and you're done. Once you break the initial connection, you can loosen it with your fingers. The metal fittings shouldn't really be all that brittle (not that I'd recommend taking a 3 foot crowbar to it either!). The rubber probably is brittle, so use the opportunity to replace them before they start leaking fuel on the exhaust manifold (= fire).
Old 06-14-2004, 09:58 AM
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Luis de Prat
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If you remove the 16V cam cover for any reason, it's also a good idea to replace the cam cover gasket if original on the car because it will leak otherwise.

When I did mine, I replaced the gasket, spark plug hole O-rings and bolt gaskets.
Old 06-14-2004, 11:43 AM
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One thing I had a terrible hard time doing was getting to that upper-left valve cover bolt, because the fuel hoses are right in the way! I couldn't move the lines out of the way enough...making for a maddening experience.

Is there an easy way to get to that upper left bolt, maybe with a longer allen wrench, etc??

Also...do the spark plug O gaskets go round-side towards block, or flat side??
Old 06-14-2004, 12:54 PM
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how much for hte new gasket, and where di you get it?
Old 06-14-2004, 01:01 PM
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You should be able to get the cover gasket, the spark plug hole gaskets, and the 13 or so small grommets for the bolt holes for about $30-$40. Zims has them as a set for $35 I think, I got mine from the dealer for about $30.

Some also suggest replacing all the bolts holding the cover on, as the bolts can stretch, but at $9 EACH (!) that adds $130. Mine seemed fine, none broke, so I reused them.



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