Need advice on phone dial paint removal
06-06-2004, 02:28 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Need advice on phone dial paint removal
I am currently in the process of trying to remove the paint on my phone dials for re finishing. I have tried using spray on paint remover, aircraft remover, and plain old sanding. However Im not making much progress. It took an hour of sanding, just to get through to bare metal on the rim and lip of ONE wheel! Does anyone have any tips for removing paint on pd's?
-Christian
-Christian
06-06-2004, 08:42 PM
#2
Race Car
Personally, I would bead-blast, but not everybody has the equipment to do that.
Marhyde aircraft coating remover should do the trick, provided the temperature is correct (it doesn't do squat at 3 degrees celcius, but works wonders at 20 =). You might be able to sand-blast them as well, but that may damage the wheel.
Acetone will take the paint off fairly easily, I discovered that by accident, I went through the paint, and most of the primer.
But, that may be because my phone dials are screwed up.
I would give the aircraft coating remover another go.
If it's the spray can stuff, spray it on real thick, and don't touch it for 30 minutes.
If it's the brush on stuff, brush it on really heavy, then don't re-brush it. Once it starts to set up, it forms like a waxy coating on the surface, to keep the chemicals in it from evaporating. If you keep brushing it, this will destroy the coating, and it will do little to no good.
People will probably suggest not removing all the paint from the wheels. But I don't really like that way. I am planning to re-finish 2 sets of phone dials this year, so I would like to hear some other suggestions on how to refinish them.
Marhyde aircraft coating remover should do the trick, provided the temperature is correct (it doesn't do squat at 3 degrees celcius, but works wonders at 20 =). You might be able to sand-blast them as well, but that may damage the wheel.
Acetone will take the paint off fairly easily, I discovered that by accident, I went through the paint, and most of the primer.
But, that may be because my phone dials are screwed up.
I would give the aircraft coating remover another go.
If it's the spray can stuff, spray it on real thick, and don't touch it for 30 minutes.
If it's the brush on stuff, brush it on really heavy, then don't re-brush it. Once it starts to set up, it forms like a waxy coating on the surface, to keep the chemicals in it from evaporating. If you keep brushing it, this will destroy the coating, and it will do little to no good.
People will probably suggest not removing all the paint from the wheels. But I don't really like that way. I am planning to re-finish 2 sets of phone dials this year, so I would like to hear some other suggestions on how to refinish them.
06-06-2004, 08:50 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Why bother removing what's on them? I just sprayed over the paint on mine, they look great. If you aren't sure aboit it, try one and see what it looks like. There are tons of threads on this topic.
If you want a perfect job, you'd better get a professional refinisher to do it for you.
If you want a perfect job, you'd better get a professional refinisher to do it for you.
06-06-2004, 09:39 PM
#5
Nerd Herder
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by Serge944
As long as you get all of the clearcoat off, just paint over the existing paint.
As long as you get all of the clearcoat off, just paint over the existing paint.
Unless your plan is to polish or chrome them-
06-06-2004, 09:41 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
scuffing up the old paint and repainting will be better in the long run. If you strip them down all the way, you will end up having adhesion problems over the bare aluminum.
06-07-2004, 12:10 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Keeping the original paint on is no option, as the paint is horribly chipped. If I paint over it, the chips will be noticeable. Im thinking about trying the aircraft remover again. Now that I have most of that paint off, hopefully it will be easier.
-Christian
-Christian
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06-07-2004, 01:22 PM
#8
Race Car
The primer that is on them is pretty tough. I hope the aircraft coating remover will work for you. That is the part of the job that worries me the most on my wheels.
Both sets of mine are pretty badly chipped, so I will have to strip to bare metal as well.
Stupid question, but adhesion problems to bare aluminum were mentioned. What did the factory use to solve this? It would appear that primer is on there to stay.
Both sets of mine are pretty badly chipped, so I will have to strip to bare metal as well.
Stupid question, but adhesion problems to bare aluminum were mentioned. What did the factory use to solve this? It would appear that primer is on there to stay.
06-07-2004, 02:26 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
Try a commercial stripping place, it will probably save you a LOT of time. Not sure what effect the stripper will have on alumuminum though, so make sure they know what they are doing. Maybe a wheel refinisher will do it for you. I painted over the clear coat and there was no problem. Chips can be filed with glaze putty if there aren't too many.
06-07-2004, 07:01 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
OKay, tried the aircraft remover again, and it worked. This time I let it sit for a full 45 minutes, then went to work scraping the crap off.
-Christian
-Christian
06-07-2004, 10:46 PM
#13
Instructor
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Originally posted by DerSchlechtSpecht
OKay, tried the aircraft remover again, and it worked. This time I let it sit for a full 45 minutes, then went to work scraping the crap off.
-Christian
OKay, tried the aircraft remover again, and it worked. This time I let it sit for a full 45 minutes, then went to work scraping the crap off.
-Christian
Doug
06-08-2004, 06:33 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
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You are ruining a tough, perfectly-sealed primer coat that you will never be able to duplicate, in addition to making more work for yourself. Just sand off the clear, fill the chips and scratches by conventional methods, and refinish. In this case, the easier way is also the better way.
"sand/strip it to the bare metal" has become a mentality that often takes the place of better solutions. When doing paintwork on a 944's body, I would also avoid sanding through the primer, because very few of us can duplicate the quality of the galvanizing and the seal of the etching coat on the 944 panels. You can always tell a 944 that had its nose ruined by being sanded to the bare metal for a simple touch up job because those are the ones where the new stone chips rust.
"sand/strip it to the bare metal" has become a mentality that often takes the place of better solutions. When doing paintwork on a 944's body, I would also avoid sanding through the primer, because very few of us can duplicate the quality of the galvanizing and the seal of the etching coat on the 944 panels. You can always tell a 944 that had its nose ruined by being sanded to the bare metal for a simple touch up job because those are the ones where the new stone chips rust.