Well, be prepared to break an allen bolt on the front coolant jacket (the part that has the coolant bleeder valve), the 2 that thread into the block rust out pretty easy, and at least one has broken on both heads that i have taken off. Those are a lot easier to drill out and re tap though, since it is level and nothing gets in your way. If you are picking up parts early, i would just plan on picking up a couple of those bolts to have on hand since they are very cheap. If you need the size, i can check PET

 

Actually, i don't have anything tomorrow (monday and would love to have help to do it tomorrow! Can you still do it? I'll PM you as well.
~Eyal

 

It's actually pretty easy to break a tap... I've broken many a tap in my days at the machine shop. Come to think of it I've broken a lot of **** at the places I work... glad the tally for the latest job is only a mere screw driver, WHEW!! :P

 

the head is off... everything looks really good except there is a bit of a gauge in the piston wall. It's not too bad, but you can feel it. Ouch... I geuss I'll just bore out the motor sometime down the road... ****ty. anyway, anyone know what is aa good shop to take it? Thanks to Jeff (Porsche-O-Phile for his help!
~Eyal

 

what do you think?

 

 

.

 

Hmmm, looks OK actually. Might be a good ideal to take out that piston and verify that you don't have anything clogging the rings. Also verify that the piston isn't scored.

 

are you sure? it is definetly prominent, i mean i can catch my nail on it... it isnt too bad though... hmm...
~Eyal

 

I agree with Danno on that one. I've seen a lot worse and only had leakdown numbers in the 5% range. Your not building a 550 HP monster so the effect on performance will most likely be negligible. Just be sure you clean the area between the cylinder walls and rings out real good before reassembly. I mean real good. I usually put a good coat of oil on the cylinder walls with a reg as well.

If there is only one and you can just catch it with your nail.....don't worry about it too much. If there are many and you can catch it with your knuckle, I'd be concerned......

 

ok, good! cause if i needed to rebuild, I'd probably go crazy with it. 3.0 motor, to4e, etc etc... and i don't [read: should'nt] do that.... yet.
~Eyal

 

On the "catch a nail" test, is there a standardized way to prepare the nail? Should it be freshly trimmed? To what length? Which finger is to be used? Is it to be filed with the rough corners and edges rounded off? What about buffing?

It's so inconsistent depending upon the particular hand that is used to carress the scratch. Kinda like the manual's method of adjusting the front wheel bearings. Tighten the nut until the washer could barely be moved with the tip of a screwdriver? What if I had a 3-foot long pry-bar of a screwdriver? At least in the Toyota manual, they have you put a fishing-scale on a lug and measure how much force it takes to spin the hub. There should be a depth standard of sorts for cylinder wall scratchs and also something about the numbers of scratchs and their lengths as well.

 

sooo basically, throw the head back on and forget for a while? Danno, know of any good shops to take it too?
~Eyal

 

I bet he can tell where not to go

 

lol, yep, I've heard enough about that already! I wasn't even considering going there.
~Eyal