I'm working on an '89 S2 that I'm parting out and I can't seem to get the engine to fire up. I've got fuel coming up and spraying into the cylinders, I've got spark and I think the timing is right. I lined up the timing mark with the camgear mark and I put the rotor at about the 11 O'clock position which is the #1 cylinder. I don't have a compression tester but it had enough compression that it blew the plug wires out of the holes without the plugs in it when I was turning the motor by hand. I know it doesn't mean a hell of a lot but there is at least some compression. So what am I missing here? Is there some safety or something I need to disengage to get the motor to start? When I first try it sounds like it wants to start for about a second and then for the rest of the time it'll just crank. The car was in a front end accident, would that have tripped something that I need to reset that would prevent the car from starting? I've tried putting starting fluid into the cylinder and trying to fire it that way but I got nothing. Any ideas on what to look into or what to try would be greatly appreciated.

Danny

 

Is the speed/reference sensor on the bell housing still there? It needs to be intact for the car to fire up.

HTH

 

fuel wouldn't be pumped if those sensors were gone, unless the fuel pump is hotwired.

-Mike-

 

I'd leave the engine in the car until you've sold it, most buyers will want to check the compression themselves. I know I would.

 

I'm going from memory here but isn't the #1 plug wire at 5 o'clock?

 

why pete, i do beleive you are correct.

azn - i suggest you try changing the rotor as per this recommendation. on my cars there is only one place to put the rotor screw.

-Mike-

 

Pete you are probably right, but I think AznDrgn was refering to the location of the actual wire as it enters the head.

FWIW the factory manual states that you line up the the motor to TDC and make sure the mark on the cam sprocket lines up with the mark on the housing. Then the rotor is installed pointing to ~11 o'clock. At least this is on the 16V motors.

 

Is your engine at least backfiring? If so...your ignition is off. Maybe your rotor is loose on the camshaft?

 

Get a compression tester, it's useful for all sorts of things. Then maybe I'll take that engine off your hands...if the compressions good of course. Plus even if you ebay it off, you'll get more $$$$ for having the compression numbers in the ad.

 

Riff I have no idea if those sensors are still there or not, where exactly are they located? Are they the same ones for a regular 2.5L 944 motor?

ERAU-944 the fuel pump isn't hotwired so I guess the sensors are there like you said. When you refer to the direction of the rotor button are you thinking of a 2.5L 8 valve motor? If so I have the 3.0L 16 valve motor which uses a different cap and rotor but I'll take the cap off again and double check.

944Pete I'll double check the rotor position.

Serge944 no backfires.

Bhj0887 I think I'm gonna get one at work today and I'll add your name to the list of people interested in the motor.

Riff thanks for the continued help. Your door handles should be in the mail early next week, I already have the drivers side off if you want me to send that off first let me know.

Thanks for the help everyone.
Peckster I planned on keeping the engine in the car until it was sold. I have a whole list of people who are interested in it.

 

IIRC the 16V cars have one reference sensor mounted to the bell housing to read a pick up off of the flywheel, where the 8V cars have 2. Picture and how to find it can be found here:

Clark's Garage

The other sensor for ignition is a Hall sensor that mounts to the back of the cam sprocket housing. make sure both these are there or you will not get the DME to co-operate.

Thanks for the door handles! I can wait until you get both of them off. Let me know where to send the payment.

Good Luck,

 

I think I know why it's not working now. The hall sensor that mounts to the back of the cam sprocket housing isn't there. The car was in a front end accident and the hood went up and hit the cap and rotor and smashed them and there is a black plastic mounting piece that is mounted to the housing in front of the other cam. I'm guessing that was probably the sensor. If you go here and look at the 4th picture down you'll get an idea of what I'm talking about.
http://www.freewebs.com/azndrgn/tests.htm

Weird thing is I didn't see any plugs for it but I guess I'll just have to check again.

 

Scratch that, I found the cam sensor. The cam gear housing is a bit deformed from the accident so the sensor might be pointing at the proper place on the gear and it might not be. The sensor is on the passenger side of the cam gear right? any way to test it? would it pump gas and spark if this sensor was off?

 

Just wondering what the hell hit it or you hit?

 

Bhj0887 as far as I understand it slid under another car going pretty damn fast. I'm actually the second owner after the wreck. The first owner was planning on fixing it up and driving it but never got around to it so I picked it up to part it out and get some parts for myself.