Burning oil......Read it...you know you want to
#16
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Maybe this isn't as big of a problem as I assumed, I'm defenitly investing in another compression tester. Since mine dissappeared during my last move.
Anyway, just to make things a bit worse, I failed my drivers exam. Before I got it suspended I passed it the first time with flying colors. This time I think they wanted to be hard on me. Anyway, I failed for using 1 hand to steer and not signaling while parallel parking...btw I parallel park "PERFECT". I was teaching friends how to parallel when I was 14.
I was also driving a Ford Taurus, tried to drive it like it was a Porsche, don not throw those things into turns!
Ok I'm done rambling and going out to buy my new compression tester.
Anyway, just to make things a bit worse, I failed my drivers exam. Before I got it suspended I passed it the first time with flying colors. This time I think they wanted to be hard on me. Anyway, I failed for using 1 hand to steer and not signaling while parallel parking...btw I parallel park "PERFECT". I was teaching friends how to parallel when I was 14.
I was also driving a Ford Taurus, tried to drive it like it was a Porsche, don not throw those things into turns!
Ok I'm done rambling and going out to buy my new compression tester.
#17
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Porsche says that the limit for oil use in an engine is up to 1.5l each 600KM. More than that it's time for a rebuild.
You're fine, keep the oil level up and drive.
You can always find things to spend money on.
Dal.
You're fine, keep the oil level up and drive.
You can always find things to spend money on.
Dal.
#19
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If you do rebuild, I'd highly suggest that you have a tech or someone knowledgable in Porsche engines to examine the Alusil (or is it Nikasil on 944s to?) coating in your cylinders and see if it will have to be recoated. Deep grooves indicate that the cylinders may need to be coated again. Just a thought.... Good luck on your situation.
Andy
Andy
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Now I'm a little pissed and a little happy at the same time.
1-Pissed because they sold me a faulty compression tester (I know how to use it)
2-Pissed because I have to drive all the way back there to get a refund or exchange and I have no gas.
3-Happy because I found some power out of the ol' 2.5, I must have forgot to torque down the plugs last time I had them out so when I took them out this time I torqued them to specification and had a much better idle and seems like it just runs better.
1-Pissed because they sold me a faulty compression tester (I know how to use it)
2-Pissed because I have to drive all the way back there to get a refund or exchange and I have no gas.
3-Happy because I found some power out of the ol' 2.5, I must have forgot to torque down the plugs last time I had them out so when I took them out this time I torqued them to specification and had a much better idle and seems like it just runs better.
#22
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600 km =~ 373 miles.
1.5l =~ 1.6qt.
So... Porsche says the limit for a good engine is (oops I was wrong) 1.5l (1.6qt) for 1000km (~621 miles). So as long as you're under that, Porsche says that's acceptable.
Don't worry about it.
I've never been a fan of sleeving and it's not necessary. There are a LOT of places that have the equipment and expertise to bore and polish these blocks. The more important thing is that you're gonna have to find and purchase 1st oversize pistons. THAT gets expensive, about $1250/set. Do a search here and see how many people are having problems with sleeves. After all that work it would have been better and more cost effective in the long run to refinish the standard bores.
Most of the time you don't need to touch the cylinder walls, most of the time it's just rings (they are designed to be the wear point) or you're sucking oil from other points (valve stem seals and guides).
Dal.
1.5l =~ 1.6qt.
So... Porsche says the limit for a good engine is (oops I was wrong) 1.5l (1.6qt) for 1000km (~621 miles). So as long as you're under that, Porsche says that's acceptable.
Don't worry about it.
I've never been a fan of sleeving and it's not necessary. There are a LOT of places that have the equipment and expertise to bore and polish these blocks. The more important thing is that you're gonna have to find and purchase 1st oversize pistons. THAT gets expensive, about $1250/set. Do a search here and see how many people are having problems with sleeves. After all that work it would have been better and more cost effective in the long run to refinish the standard bores.
Most of the time you don't need to touch the cylinder walls, most of the time it's just rings (they are designed to be the wear point) or you're sucking oil from other points (valve stem seals and guides).
Dal.
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i was putting out black smoke under hard acceleration, and replaced the FPR, and it seems to have cleared that up. 1/2 quart every 1000 miles or so wouldn't be bad i wouldn't think. What is considered acceptable? That is only a quart and a half per 3000 miles / oil change.
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Well, I do get smoke under heavy acceleration, I beleive it's blue, so no extra fuel is being burnt, which makes me think oil is comming through the head, I do have a little oil on the plugs but not much.
Another thought is the exhaust, it really could use replacement...I mean from the headers back. There is so much carbon build-up it can't be good. Here's one of my out of this world thoughts but maybe all the carbon build-up and other junk in my exhaust is just getting so hot that it burns itself and under heavy acceleration and just spits it out the exhaust....
I already have a set of cast headers that I was planning on doing some machine work to. I can get piping plenty of places, and since there aren't many bends in the exhaust I would expect it to be only ~$100 to get them bent into shape. I won't even bother with the cat, since the car will be inspected in PA for at least the next couple of years. Like I said I got the headers for almost nothing (under 10 bucks), I can re-use the lower portion of the manifold...weld up the crack in it, and get the piping and have it bent into shape.
I know I'm really trying to put off pulling the engine but it needs a new exhaust anyway and rebuilding the head wont hurt. I might buy a used head and rebuild it...see what happens when I put it on. What's the difference between the turbo head and N/A head?
I'll start with the exhaust just because it needs replacement, then I'll go on to bigger and better things.
Another thought is the exhaust, it really could use replacement...I mean from the headers back. There is so much carbon build-up it can't be good. Here's one of my out of this world thoughts but maybe all the carbon build-up and other junk in my exhaust is just getting so hot that it burns itself and under heavy acceleration and just spits it out the exhaust....
I already have a set of cast headers that I was planning on doing some machine work to. I can get piping plenty of places, and since there aren't many bends in the exhaust I would expect it to be only ~$100 to get them bent into shape. I won't even bother with the cat, since the car will be inspected in PA for at least the next couple of years. Like I said I got the headers for almost nothing (under 10 bucks), I can re-use the lower portion of the manifold...weld up the crack in it, and get the piping and have it bent into shape.
I know I'm really trying to put off pulling the engine but it needs a new exhaust anyway and rebuilding the head wont hurt. I might buy a used head and rebuild it...see what happens when I put it on. What's the difference between the turbo head and N/A head?
I'll start with the exhaust just because it needs replacement, then I'll go on to bigger and better things.
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Your oil consumption is way too low. You obviously need a rebuild.
I forgot I have steady oil pressure of around ~4 bar at idle and 5 under acceleration..is that normal on these cars? Right now I have 20-50 Penzoil oil in there and of course the mahle oil filter.
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bump
I noticed that it only smokes, a lot though, above 5000 rpm. Sure I don't need to rev it that high on the street but it's still a problem that needs attention.
I'm not positive, but if the rings weren't seated properly or worn wouldn't it smoke through the whole rpm band?
I'm actually hoping that it's something from the top end because it's alot easier to get at, and I can do it in a day or two.
Thoughts?Suggestion?
I noticed that it only smokes, a lot though, above 5000 rpm. Sure I don't need to rev it that high on the street but it's still a problem that needs attention.
I'm not positive, but if the rings weren't seated properly or worn wouldn't it smoke through the whole rpm band?
I'm actually hoping that it's something from the top end because it's alot easier to get at, and I can do it in a day or two.
Thoughts?Suggestion?
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I am not trying to be Stuck up, but do you think its worth mentioning that you have a Dodge Spirt on a Porsche site. Honestly, the 1987 NA is really nice.
Yes, I know blue smoke means oil burning. Thanks
I figure that since it only smokes high in the rpm range its something besides the rings. Like I said before I thought that badly seated or worn rings would have the car smoking from idle on....correct me if I'm wrong.
Schlicten,
Is the 2.8lt block is from a 944? I wasn't aware that one was made...maybe you mean the 2.7...If it is, what's missing from the shortblock, same with the 2.5 (i'm assuming it's an N/A but I might want it if it's a turbo block as well.) Shoot me a PM with prices shipped to 07076